[Baja Blazer 85]

It was once used to smuggle catnip across the border for the Mexican feline cartel, I'm sure.

 

[hi_im_sean]

It was once used to smuggle catnip across the border for the Mexican feline cartel, I'm sure.

lol somthing like that

in other news i took the plenum and the intake off to see if i could find anything obvious and because i needed to do valve cover gaskets and i was unsure about the lower intake gaskets. no obvious problems screaming at me. there appears to be a slightly washed out(fuel and oil stains cleaned from the area) area of the plenum near the fpr, but that could have been from round 1 as it was the cleanest spot when i put it back together the first time when the fpr was leaking last year. i guess im going to put it back together and go from there.

 

[zfixerchick]

Hang in there Sean and don't forget to do a CAT scan every once in a while

 

[Rhotpursuit]

....along with an MRI. (misc rodent inspection)

 

[hi_im_sean]

Made a scrap metal run today and got the truck weighed. 3160lbs with a little less than a half tank of gas and exactly as it would have been driven off the lot. Stock stereo, spare tire and jack stuff in place etc.

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[low_energy]

Nice looking truck. I've my SS for 11 years and now sadly have to part with it. I just did the valve cover gaskets and that helped a lot with oil fumes.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/members/194849-a-album3417-my-ss.html

 

[hi_im_sean]

thanks man! yea the valve gaskets took care of a lot of weeping, the engine is now dry again.


i realized ive left a lot of recent info out of this thread, its probably in the troubleshooting thread, but ill put it here any way.

so in post 59 i replaced the fuel pump. i bought the ac delco pump kit from a an ebay seller named global-automotive, do not buy from these dickheads, story below. anyway, the stock pump wasnt bad and this replacement had a bad check valve out of the box, it would never hold any pressure for any length of time after voltage was removed from the pump. truck still wasnt running, i was getting frustrated, i didnt feel like replacing it again knowing it wasnt my problem, and i was unsure if maybe the injector wasnt bleeding off the pressure. pump stayed in for now, and my garage ate the original, i cant find it.

i put it all back together and same problems. at this point i was stuck, i was fairly sure the spider assy i had put in 13k miles ago hadnt gone bad yet, but it was the only thing left. the intake gaskets looked shitty and were original as far as i could tell, and i needed to do the valve covers, so i just took it all apart and did em both. i found the intake and head runners and valves to be extremely clean right after the injector nozzles. a clue. i put it back together, still no go.

i let it sit for a while, a few months, i got mad and was busy. then found a NIB Standard brand spider on ebay and installed it. truck is running yay! the injector in the delphi assy i had installed previously had stuck open, dribbling fuel into the runner and making it super rich. my theory anyway.

so now im off and running with the occasional hard start or need to prime due to aforementioned check ball. pressure still wont hold, not even for a 2nd, so im sure the pump is faulty. its probably august and i start driving it to work one day a week. 1 tank of gas later and it becomes really hard to start, 15 miles into tank 2 it stops running. gotta be the fuel pump i thought. got mad again and let it sit again for a while.

now its nov.

a few weeks ago i checked the following-
35psi with or without return line clamped off
took plenum apart, checked for leaks, pulled all 6 injector nozzles for leaks. none were found. system is tight.
new spider has less than 300 miles on it.

fuel pump is still under warranty, so i send it in. they deny warranty claim just saying that it runs as it should. i asked about the check valve and how much pressure it made an they wont respond to me. if you google search global automotive in miami fl, they are all over rippoff report and BBB for denying warranty claims. for $45, its not really worth my time to **** with them, so i bought another delco kit from another ebay asshole and the truck runs again!

since i never have any help i can now get the bed off and on by myself, its pretty easy actually. practice lol. i had always just told myself i couldnt do it.

im almost through that 2nd tank of gas lol, so wish me luck.

now im seriously debating swapping in the zq8 coils i have absolutely no other use for and loosing a leaf in the rear, and maybe a small blpck with setback and angle.

and a muffler, i need more loudz

 

[What?]

http://www.arizonas10.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=24962#p24962

This would be the other way to have access to it without removing the bed.

Otherwise using engine hoist, using the hook attached in the bed per corner with tie down strap rachet.

Less talk, more ZQ8 coils drop installed.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

^^gotta join to view your link...

 

[hi_im_sean]

Otherwise using engine hoist, using the hook attached in the bed per corner with tie down strap rachet.

this is what i ussually do. the digging it out of garage and setup really bother me lol.

 

[hi_im_sean]

^^gotta join to view your link...

he just tilted the bed up, probabaly left the last 2 bed bolts in the rear, but loosened almost all the way.

 

[What?]

this is what i ussually do. the digging it out of garage and setup really bother me lol.

Time to build a garage shop in the yard.

he just tilted the bed up, probabaly left the last 2 bed bolts in the rear, but loosened almost all the way.

Remove all bed bolts, 2x4 to hold it up.

 

[Iroc-10]

Let me give you some info on the problem spot on these. Under the intake where the electrical connection goes on the spider. It heat cycles all the time. The plastic clips get brittle, and the connections get just loose enough to cause intermittent issues. They make aftermarket replacement clips, but that was actually worse. I ended up getting a couple zip ties around that connector, and also squeezed the little clips that go on the spider unit so they fit a little tighter. Once I got that, truck ran great.

I went through 3 fuel pumps, and 2 spider units, and a few sensors because of all of the odd codes from the loose connection. When it got bad, once it got hot, it would loose connection all together and shut off. By the time you started working on it, it had cooled down enough it would start again. Drove me crazy for awhile.

Nice SS!!

 

[hi_im_sean]

Let me give you some info on the problem spot on these. Under the intake where the electrical connection goes on the spider. It heat cycles all the time. The plastic clips get brittle, and the connections get just loose enough to cause intermittent issues. They make aftermarket replacement clips, but that was actually worse. I ended up getting a couple zip ties around that connector, and also squeezed the little clips that go on the spider unit so they fit a little tighter. Once I got that, truck ran great.

I went through 3 fuel pumps, and 2 spider units, and a few sensors because of all of the odd codes from the loose connection. When it got bad, once it got hot, it would loose connection all together and shut off. By the time you started working on it, it had cooled down enough it would start again. Drove me crazy for awhile.

Nice SS!!

very good analytic problem solving!

im going to look into to that- because... guess what.... 1000ish miles later its doing it again.:censor::censor::censor::nuts::nuts::nuts::doh::doh::censor::cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss::ggay::ggay::ggay::censor::censor::censor: it did it the first time last week, it just barely stumbled a little on the freeway, and again a few days later. right now its only once every 50 miles or so, but this is how it always starts. it starts off slow and gets worse and worse until it wont run.

 

[WhiteSSTowPig]

these engines are a little stubborn but once you learn your way around them they are easy to diagnose and run really well.here are some things ive picked up along the way with my SS.on these id recommend only OEM ignition parts,EGR block off plate is a must,and a fixed fuel psi gauge is also a good idea.the best spider is the GB brand on rockauto cheap just over $100 after core and never had a problem.be sure to adjust the torx head regulator on the spider to no lower than 60psi engine on 64psi engine off.the spider connector should definately be replaced and can be bought new as a standard TBI injector connector.hope this helps

 

[hi_im_sean]

these engines are a little stubborn but once you learn your way around them they are easy to diagnose and run really well.here are some things ive picked up along the way with my SS.on these id recommend only OEM ignition parts,EGR block off plate is a must,and a fixed fuel psi gauge is also a good idea.the best spider is the GB brand on rockauto cheap just over $100 after core and never had a problem.be sure to adjust the torx head regulator on the spider to no lower than 60psi engine on 64psi engine off.the spider connector should definately be replaced and can be bought new as a standard TBI injector connector.hope this helps

im going to look into all of this info. thanks for the help guys

 

[zfixerchick]

I'm sorry to hear you're having so many problems with your SS Sean. I have the Delphi spider in mine. I paid $185.00 for it and knock on wood, so far so good. I hope your truck starts behaving and you are safely back on the road soon.

 

[hi_im_sean]

I'm sorry to hear you're having so many problems with your SS Sean. I have the Delphi spider in mine. I paid $185.00 for it and knock on wood, so far so good. I hope your truck starts behaving and you are safely back on the road soon.

thanks zfixer, that was the first one i did and i paid about the same for it. it lasted 12k and about 13 months, 2k and 1 month over warranty .

so after being pissed off at it for the last 6 weeks and just letting it sit (ran here and there to keep the battery up) i decided to take it back apart... again and measure fuel pressure, etc. i got some interesting results, that dont mean much.

engine off fuel pressure is a healthy 61psi, but that problem where it wont hold pressure once the pump turns off has returned. that means either internal leak in the plenum or the check ball in the pump failed... again. took the plnum off, pulled every pintle and no leaks anywhere.... stupid fuking fuel pumps.

so i took iroc-10s advice and yanked the injector pins. they were spread open, and had some oxidation on them. there was obvious signs of severe ratting wearing away the contacts and the injector pins. so i squeezed them back together, ran i fine jewlers file between the contacts while squeezing them between my fingers, cleaned everything with contact cleaner, and applied a stylish zip tie.

here you can see one contact i have already squeezed closed compared the the other which is spread open more.

ive become so good at taking this plenum apart, the whole process took 30 minutes lmao

i drove it 15 miles, so far so good. i wont call it good until at least a few fuel tanks are run through it without a stumble or hiccup. meh.

 

[24digger]

I may have to try that on my 95, I'm like you, almost takes longer to gather up the tools than to take the plenum off.

 

[hi_im_sean]

I may have to try that on my 95, I'm like you, almost takes longer to gather up the tools than to take the plenum off.

I even know exactly what tools I need to.

Drove it another 15, no issues yet.

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