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Ford guy stuck w/ chebby
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This was posted at another forum. I was tired and a bit drunk when I wrote it. Please let me know if I misrepresented anything, if so I can get it changed. I didn't say PowerPerformanceMotorsSports cause the guys at that forum didn't/don't know who they are anyway.. just said the 1,000,000 mile parts.

Just parts painted finally after a full weekend and some rain tried to ruin me painting them.

These badboys are 1,000,000 (million) mile warranty parts. They are raw cast so I painted them so they don't rust.









floor (only room left w/ carpet) needs vacuuming.. but is full of all my parts so won't get done till they are on.. don't mind the mess.

taking this beast apart..









all the original parts as far as I know, this brch has 260K on it.



This pic and the next one are the upper control arm bushings for the driver's side. The back bushing was GONE. As in just metal on metal rubbin.. not good.





pass side spindle/rotor assembly.



All the chit gone. That was tuesday afternoon, started tearing it apart monday night at aboat 4pm..

I wasn't able to take many pics. Work and stupid rechargeable batteries (fully charged but low life).. so this will be kinda here and there..



okay maybe ALL the chit WASN'T gone by this point.. I dunno I am just posting the pics in order.. but this was tuesday afternoon.



steering shaft (male end) which is part of the steering column that comes through the firewall.



Imput shaft (female end) that hooks to the steering shaft and then into the actual steering box. From factory there is a "rag joint" which I will show a cut up version of in the next couple pics. The rag joint is supposed to make the ride of a vehicle "nicer" by eliminating alot of the road vibration & drive train vibration that is produced by a car/truck.. whatever. Thing is over time the rag joint (plys of nylon fabric that have rivets through it) wear out and you start getting slop in your steering, as in you turn it an 1/8th or 1/4 turn and no actual movement.. this is caused by the rag joint going bad.




Huh.. forgot I took a pic of the rag joint actually still attached and complete (untouched) on the end of the input steering shaft.. well this is it, it has a series of metal links-to-nylon cloth-to-metal links. Basically if the nylon fabric were to fail 100% then there would be what they call a "mechanical" or metal link to keep your steering from 100% failing. by that point you would have known there was a problem with it and taken it somewhere or fixed it yourself.



Another pic of the plys and the metal mechanical links.



I peeled the sticker off, and cleaned all the crap off the input shaft and repainted it. Here you see that I have installed the billet Flaming River U-joint piece (shiny silver). I had to cut the old rag joint off, and installed this (after modifying the shaft it's self). The lil rubber thing on the other end was one of the old sway bar bushings I replaced so I used it to keep the freshly painted shaft off the glass..



better view of it compared to what was once on it..





Pressing in the Lower Control Arm Bushings.

One of the snafus we came into was the pressing of the bushings (new) the old bushings were a BITCH to get out. 8 bushings took probably 3 hours to get OUT. This is what our collective thinking came up with. The pressing of these were TOUGH. That is a 20 ton press and it was, at first, not cutting it. When we secured the ends to keep the deflection of the arm to a minimum they finally started to press in. We had to constantly tweak the setup and do a final "tap" here and there with the 3lb sledge to get em to seat properly.



Pressing in the Upper Control Arm Bushings. This setup was my idea. Took some 1/4" plate and drilled a hole through it so the control arm stud could go through it when pressed, having the circular tubing in there for extra room so that the stud could have space needed during and after being pressed into place.



Ah yes.. ALL the suspension gone from the front end..



With the tubing stock in place to control deflection while the bushings were pressed into place.



Upper Control Arm Bushing seated. Hell yeah.



Lower Control Arms Bushings & Lower ball joint pressed in, lubed and ready for re-assembly.





Upper control arms back in their home. (both sides)



Remember when you start something you have never done before? How you know how to do something in theory, but the actual physical doing of it you have not done? That was this whole job for me (control arm bushings and dealing with the springs) If you look, this picture shows the lower arm in, with the spring in, and a jack under the lower arm.

Inside the spring there is an "inner spring compressor". Look at how it hangs out of the spring.. it took me a good 1.5 hours to learn the compressor and where to put it on the spring to get the results I needed, THEN how to orient it to the spring to get it to NOT get in the way of the rubber snubbers and ball joints or any other area that it couldn't interfere with.. say the lower control arm perches.. this was during a period of time thursday I was sweating my balls off, the humidity was like 130% and was raining outside.. had the doors closed and FECK!!

It was a grueling period knowing I was just wasting time to figure out how it was all supposed to go.. that is the worst.. it is all for the cause (to complete the project) but since it isn't getting you further with the project it makes you plenty impatient. I figured out by trial and error how to arrange it all.. BTW the springs needed to seat in a certain area in the lower arm.. but the lower arm would have to be brought up.. so you had to do alot of guesstimating and trial fitting swinging that damn heavy arm around while holding that damn heavy spring.. it wore me out.

Got it all arranged how I needed to, then raised the arm, hooked the back depression in the lower arm with the spring, took the floor jack and raised the arm. Put the spindle on and put the castle nut on as far as I could with bare hands, then raised the jack to the point it started raising the truck (the spring was compressed as far as it could go.. which wasn't far) lowered the upper ball joint into the spindle and tightened the castle nut to hand tight. which is the pic below.







torqued the castle nuts to the right ft lbs and put the coder pins in to complete them. The spring compressor was fun to take out.. actually not that bad.



Upper Control Arm installed. That red is the polyurethane. To the left there is the steering box that the new U-joint goes onto.





A GREAT pic of how the upper control arm mounts to the frame. You can even see the shims that control camber of the wheel here. Now this is the same side that earlier was metal on metal where the bushing was blown 100% out.



My brand new 1 million mile warranty pivot arm.



same pics, one with flash one without. Had to spot weld the hole the sway bar link (metal rod sticking up) fit into the control arm. there was a nice worn gouge in the factory hole. So a spot weld, grind, and file to the correct roundness was done.

Even though all this extra work went into this, I didn't do a full on 100% restro. I wish I could. For any vehicle I work on. I would love to epoxy coat the frame and do it up REAL proper.. but there was no way with the time limit I had and being 200 miles away from home..




Okay last 3 pics. I am going to have to total all the parts and the alignment and all of that.. but I think I spent around $1200.00 for parts and the alignment to redo the front suspension. That is me (with help from my dad) doing the labor. Maybe $3000.00 worth of work parts and labor??? I dunno.. but all that was done was WAY past needed. I rocked a corner tonight doing 54 and hugged the inside lane
hell yeah! LMAO!!
 

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Ford guy stuck w/ chebby
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3,117 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·


Both sides reinstalled the brake calipers, OH and repacked the bearings on both sides.. so all new Valvoline disc brake lube was added.. I love Valvoline : D.. forgot to mention that earlier..



Tried to get all the components in this pic..



Got it on this one..

Okay here is what was changed:

* Steering linkage (orange and black and silver pieces) Power Performance 1 million mile warranty pieces.. forged casings and high polished inners

* Bilstein Shocks

* Power Performance 1 million mile warranty upper and lower ball joints

* Energy Suspension polyurethane (red/gold) upper and lower control arm bushings

* Moog sway bar bushings (blue)

* Moog sway bar end links

* Drivers side spindle (factory piece)

* Passenger Spindle nut

* Flaming River billet U-Joint for steering shaft.

And there were some other little things like wheel seals and dust caps for the spindles/rotors and also some special seals for the center link of the steering link.

That was my week. It took way too long to do, if I were to redo it now, I could do it in 3 days no sweat. It is the learning of each section that takes as long as it does.. hell EACH side had it's own obsticals. So there was no 1 way to do anything. LOL pretty fun, and I feel accomplished now that it is done.. and more than anything it is a blast to drive. I used to hate to drive it.. It will now be up to the new trailer. Can't wait!

Oh and yeah I am a motorhead. It runs in the family.. ALL our family. That is my dad's 64 Ford Falcon drag car in the back. The headers on the wall in the back are Hooker Headers for his 86 F150. Not seen are all the other vehicles and all the different levels of completion they are all in.

Oh forgot a final pic of the steering shaft.

 

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Ford guy stuck w/ chebby
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3,117 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Rides like a dream now. That is right at $1K worth of PARTS no labor included.
 

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Ford guy stuck w/ chebby
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3,117 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
DAMN.. forgot to add that the upper and lower ball joints are power performance motorsports also.

nevermind I did :D
 

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Looks great, man! I just did all the steering stuff (idler, center link, tie rods) myself. I went with Moog, but got the PP tie rod adjuster too. It looks awesome under there.

My control arms and ball joints are next, so I'll probably refer to this write up. Thanks!
 

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Ford guy stuck w/ chebby
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I kinda did a half ass write up because it was for a construction forum that doesn't give to shits about S10's :D LOL but yeah whatever you can get from it, and if you have any questions either PM me or post it up here.

Good luck man!
 

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I need some people like you that live closer to where I live at. LOL Good write up, hopefully planning on this later down the road after I do some stuff. But I got this this bookmarked for later use.

Thanks
Allan
 

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Ford guy stuck w/ chebby
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3,117 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Man I am the only one of all my friends that are into cars. Sucks. Wish I had more people around that like to mess with them. Would be cool to have a team of people to tackle these jobs in no time. Would be pretty fun.
 

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Ford guy stuck w/ chebby
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This is such a good combination that it will make you need to get new tires.. my tires at this point are the weak link in this setup :D
 

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I Prefer Payne
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Awesome setup. I like how you painted the parts too. Looks Great.
 

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Ford guy stuck w/ chebby
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3,117 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks man! I tell you it rides like a new ride. I love it. I just got the header replaced this last week.. sounds better, performs better, rides nice.. a couple other issues I am trying to work out and she will be back in top notch running order. But this suspension setup is awesome. Do it if you get a chance. Also, I wish I could have went through and cleaned and painted the control arms and all the misc. parts.. but as it was I was stuck at my dad's.. so didn't have the time or ability to do it.
 

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Do you recommend doing the steering shaft and shocks during this job? Is it better to sccomplish them during this job? Or can it wait during another job?

What about the springs. Did you replace them?
 

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Ford guy stuck w/ chebby
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Didn't replace the springs, they are the same, but I did do the steering shaft as you need to take this out to get the upper control arms out. Those control arms will push ALL the way to the motor mounts. On the driver's side there is a brake line that must be disconnected, and the passenger side has nearly NO room once the upper control arm stud is at the end of the bolts that hold it to the frame. I didn't have much juice on the batteries for the camera.. so I didn't get alot of pictures. You need to disconnect the abs sensors at the plug which is right up along the stud to the upper arms. Also need to disconnect the wire it's self from the upper arm, there is 1 bolt per side that keep it on the upper arm.

ask away man, any questions you have.
 

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I was going over the theory in the book I have (hayes).

Can the Ball Joints be done without the bushings? In my book it stated that soem models had them welded in, thus requiring a control arm change.

I wonder if getting the ball joint removed then replaced whilst still connected to the car is more difficult then taking the control arm off.

Or would I be half @$$ing it?
 

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Ford guy stuck w/ chebby
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
you can change without the bushings being changed out. done it before. Take a look at the bushings themselves and see what kind of shape they are in. I had one (driver's side) that was gone. The inner bolt "race"? was just rubbin on the outer casing. It was not good.
 

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I'll try to get some pictures up.
Is that ok if I am posting questions and stuff in this thread?
 

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Ford guy stuck w/ chebby
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes, totally is man. Ask away.
 

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This a great write up. I am planning to do the same. It's hard for me when I have no garage. I am have very limited time also to do all this. Thank for the post
 

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Ford guy stuck w/ chebby
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No problem man. I actually got all the notes and how to's from all the other partial threads, did it all at the same time and just put it together. Hadn't seen anything on the bushing change outs though. It is more a walk through of what I had to do. I wish I had more battery life. I was at my dad's and the battery indicator was flashing the whole time. Rechargeables really suck for cameras. I have 4 sets I swap out and take 2 sets with me at all times.
 

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I am tryin to understand what you did with the steering shaft. Did you replace it or the rag joint only?
My truck as some play in the steerign and would make the replacement when I do my ball joints.
 
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