[Tareece]

Goodness goodness...goooddddd NESS...
Wow, this 2001 4x4 dream truck I got from a county surplus auction is unraveling my feel good mojo.
Good points---
Starts easy...Runs quiet.

Worst problem first...
4x4 sounds like it engages (i hear it click like it is locking into the front transfer case--just like my big boy 2500hd does)...No 4x4 action--right rear spins easily...no pull from the front going up a grassy incline...No front spin.

Searched 4x4 problems and since it had a front end collision Ill chk the vacuum hoses behind the headlights...

ALSO--- I noticed that the dome light fuse is connected the 4x4 system.... So seeing how this was a Sherriff County Undr Covr drug vehicle, they disconnected ALL internal lights.. .dome light is missing...would that be enough to "short" the circuit??

2nd problem--
Huge bearing/brake rotor noise.... I'll look into that after fix #1...

3rd problem
A/C noise--- blows EXTREMELY cold air but has an awful grinding whirling noise that I can only guess is the compressor?

Again, any help with the 4x4 system would be great. Like I said, I pressed the buttons, and there was an audible MECHANICAL click like the transfer case was getting locked in...

Did I mention these County Fleet Yahoos put Blue Locktite on each and EVERY stud on each and EVERY wheel??? I started all jazzed about scoring a pretty decent 4x4 truck...

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Hate to rain on your parade, but you need to break this thread up into it's individual parts in the correct forums. You'll bet better responses, and it's easier to keep track of. You can use this thread to cut/paste into the new threads.

 

[Tareece]

Hate to rain on your parade, but you need to break this thread up into it's individual parts in the correct forums. You'll bet better responses, and it's easier to keep track of. You can use this thread to cut/paste into the new threads.

Understood...and that occurred to me...I appreciate the non-nuclear response from the Admins!

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Understood...and that occurred to me...I appreciate the non-nuclear response from the Admins!

Not sure what that means.....

 

[Rebel n Dirt]

Welcome! OK so you got a pretty solid truck with a little bruising on it's nose. I don't know how hard parts are to find in your area, but nose parts in mine can be difficult at times. So the 4wd system doesn't work. Pretty common really, and there are a couple causes. First off Vacuum. There is a hose that goes from the engine to the left front fender. There should be 2 branches off that hose before it disappears into the can in the fender. One of those branches goes into the cab for the heater controls (solid black hose that disappears into a wiring harness), and the other heads down behind the engine to the transfer case. This is the transfer case swtich, there will be 3 hoses here. One from the engine as we already mentioned, one is a vent (mine goes up to the heater box area and has a little cap on it), and the one that feeds the front axle actuator. The front axle actuator lives under the battery.

So lets talk about the actuator now. This is the next most common point of failure. Since this lives under the battery, it get all the corrosive crap from the battery dripping on it, plug where it's hidden is hard to clean, so dirt, salt, and what ever also loves to live there. This had a cable that goes down to the axle that moves a little slide that is attached to a collar, and that collar locks the stub axle to the end axle, and then you get the front diff locked in. The cable only moves about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch but it needs to move freely. The vacuum actuator needs to move freely too when vacuum is applied, and the switch needs to allow the vacuum to that location. IF the switch has fluid in it, get rid of it, and get a GM unit, not a Dorman one. The Dorman unit doesn't fit the hoses very well, and... well it's Dorman, so hit or miss on the quality.

 

[Rebel n Dirt]

OH BTW, If you are hearing the transfer case motor working your fuses are not the issue. The only electrical part of this system is the transfer case motor, and a sensor on the front diff.

 

[Tareece]

Not sure what that means.....

other forums had many admins on pwr trips with the banhammer on minor or newbie infractions.... Thank you for your advice on splitting this up...and I will--in time...work and 3 car projects going at the same time leaves little time to post or edit...thanks again for your kind advice.

 

[Tareece]

Welcome! OK so you got a pretty solid truck with a little bruising on it's nose. I don't know how hard parts are to find in your area, but nose parts in mine can be difficult at times. So the 4wd system doesn't work. Pretty common really, and there are a couple causes. First off Vacuum. There is a hose that goes from the engine to the left front fender. There should be 2 branches off that hose before it disappears into the can in the fender. One of those branches goes into the cab for the heater controls (solid black hose that disappears into a wiring harness), and the other heads down behind the engine to the transfer case. This is the transfer case swtich, there will be 3 hoses here. One from the engine as we already mentioned, one is a vent (mine goes up to the heater box area and has a little cap on it), and the one that feeds the front axle actuator. The front axle actuator lives under the battery.

So lets talk about the actuator now. This is the next most common point of failure. Since this lives under the battery, it get all the corrosive crap from the battery dripping on it, plug where it's hidden is hard to clean, so dirt, salt, and what ever also loves to live there. This had a cable that goes down to the axle that moves a little slide that is attached to a collar, and that collar locks the stub axle to the end axle, and then you get the front diff locked in. The cable only moves about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch but it needs to move freely. The vacuum actuator needs to move freely too when vacuum is applied, and the switch needs to allow the vacuum to that location. IF the switch has fluid in it, get rid of it, and get a GM unit, not a Dorman one. The Dorman unit doesn't fit the hoses very well, and... well it's Dorman, so hit or miss on the quality.

I know its been a week, but wow, thanks for the help....but, yeah...my hood latch cable broke...soooooo, yeah...
The wreck damage must have altered the geometry of the latch and bracket...and the wrecker guy actually bent it to make sure it latched for transport, so that further messed up the alignment.
Ive tried to pick the lever with a stiff hanger, but no luck yet...

Again thanks for the tips....As soon as I pop the hood---and realign, I'll chk out those trouble spots!

 

[Rebel n Dirt]

I have 2 trucks right now with broken cables. I just use a pair of pliers to pull on them and the hood will pop. The Dorman replacement works, but the plastic on the handle is a bit soft, and feels weird when you pull it.

 

[Tareece]

I have 2 trucks right now with broken cables. I just use a pair of pliers to pull on them and the hood will pop. The Dorman replacement works, but the plastic on the handle is a bit soft, and feels weird when you pull it.

thanks friend... the head of my cable snapped in the lever in the cabin.. what is left is inside the cable insulation. It is becoming more of an option now to take off the kick panel and see if I can get to the actual cable and pull with the aforementioned pliers/Vise grip...

 

[Rebel n Dirt]

thanks friend... the head of my cable snapped in the lever in the cabin.. what is left is inside the cable insulation. It is becoming more of an option now to take off the kick panel and see if I can get to the actual cable and pull with the aforementioned pliers/Vise grip...

Yup that was the situation with one of my trucks too!!

 

[Jayhawke]

since you already have a smashed front end- reach THRU the grill and yank the cable- then on to next issue.

 

[Tareece]

since you already have a smashed front end- reach THRU the grill and yank the cable- then on to next issue.

not able to do that.

 

[Tareece]

ok..Success... to Jayhawke, I destroyed the grille, so couldnt reach thru it.... besides, anti theft construction did not allow easy access to latch.... I did see another way to do it though...Its hard and you have to get your screwdriver or flat implement just so, but you can push the black "insulation" cable upwards and free it..then get a hanger, pull it down...there will be excess metal cable then to pull and release the hood...

Me? I pulled the kick panel, cut the lever loose, exposed the cable and POP...up she went. Thanks to REBEL N Dirt for his assistance!

 

[Rebel n Dirt]

Pretty much just like my trucks there. GM still offers this cable last time I checked, it’s a bit pricy at $60 but it’s much nicer than the Dorman one. The Dorman one does work tho.

 

[Tareece]

Pretty much just like my trucks there. GM still offers this cable last time I checked, it’s a bit pricy at $60 but it’s much nicer than the Dorman one. The Dorman one does work tho.

lol...u know I already ordered the Dorman!...lol

 

[Jayhawke]

while waiting for dorman part- hang a coat hanger downward. and ps- i do not trust dork man products.....cheap chinese crap

 

[Tareece]

while waiting for dorman part- hang a coat hanger downward. and ps- i do not trust dork man products.....cheap chinese crap

hang a coat hanger where? in the cab tied to the cable or in the grille area?

 

[Rebel n Dirt]

hang a coat hanger where? in the cab tied to the cable or in the grille area?

grille. A coat hangar can be rigged to release the latch.

 

[Tareece]

grille. A coat hangar can be rigged to release the latch.

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