my '98 s-10 has a full frame,didn't know they made unibodies,also i don't have 'mounts' for my bed,it bolts directly to the frame.TruStinger said:if you do it right a unibody wont crack and if it does you probably deserve it. you just need to get softer mounts for the cab and bed. you can just slide the cab back a half inch and the rear forward a half inch and it should be pretty close, a half inch wont matter much for wheel space.
considering i've been in the autobody trade longer than you've been alive,maybe i know a bit more than you.96dragginSdime said:too many know it alls on here....
painttoad said:considering i've been in the autobody trade longer than you've been alive,maybe i know a bit more than you.i may not be hip with the slang on this forum but i am hip with REAL unibodies.
dude what?? if you hit any good size hole and ur bed and cab flex that much you need to fix that, my bed doesnt even move even over sweet jumps. correction the bed doesnt move as much going through a corner but not enough to break a weld. if you suck that bad at welding you should kill yourself.bagged85 said:hit a good hole or some thing enjoy the dent in the back of the cab.
exactly. you need to add mounts similar to that of the cab so they move around as equal as possible.painttoad said:my '98 s-10 has a full frame,didn't know they made unibodies,also i don't have 'mounts' for my bed,it bolts directly to the frame.
That's what I was thinking....I mean just watch your bed in the side mirror while driving, it moves a lot and if it was closer than the factory mounts allow I think it would hit the cab sooner or laterbagged85 said:hit a good hole or some thing enjoy the dent in the back of the cab.
bed is mounted solid,i know the cab is what moves.96dragginSdime said:I wasnt only talking to you painttoad, but ya since the cab is mounted on the frame solid and the cab is on rubber bushings dont you think its the cab moving not the bed