Admittedly I skipped through the video but I did here him talking about doing this before taking to a shop to be painted. I'd charge him twice as much if he sprayed that crap all over a car like that and then brought it to me to do a proper paint job at a shop!!!!! I love all the random stops and direction changes without lifting the trigger or feathering it out at all, there has to be some huge runs in that paint.
The "issues" he was talking about look like poor surface prep - as in fish eyes from oil / grease / silicone / wax on the bare metal.
He should have wiped the surface down with wax and grease remover - almost a critical step in the prep.
And never use a rag for the final wipe down. Always use a tack cloth. *** Rags leave behind fibers.
Painting the first shop race car: A guy had a $500 German hi tech HVLP gravity feed unit. He thought that was the key to painting...
Ok, so the gun was beautiful.
Same results with a cardboard freight gun...
It's all in correct paint mix/viscosity, watching the paint go on, and compensating for temperature / paint flow.
Prep, like already said, is key here...I did a Rustoleum rolled on job to one of my F250s a few years ago, and is turned out quite well. Doesn't look anything like a showroom job, but the paint adhered and leveled out nice enough that you can't see roller marks. I'm find with home brew garage paint jobs, but this guy needs some better instruction.
I sprayed the inside of a Ford Ranger bed several years ago - with Rustoleum black. I first primed it with the Rustoleum red fish oil primer. I used toluene (very poisonous) which was recommended to reduce the Rustoleum for use with a spray gun.
Damn if it didn't look better than any acrylic enamel paint job with that "wet look" specialized reactor/hardener additive!!
It easily looked as good as a factory finish!
I never think to take pix of this crap... :dunno: