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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Door Fixture Gas Auto part Dead bolt

This is what I keep seeing with Photos . Your suppose to only flush the Bearing with crank. If the bearing is pressed in past or seated all the way 1-2” in the input shaft will be not riding the Bearing

I just did my nv3500 clutch kit and all seems well but looking back at one thing the New pilot Bearing I seated all the way back into the crank until it stopped . There still is a beveled open area behind the bearing once it’s seated as far back as you can go.. an area where you would still be able get grease/bread behind too remove a bearing .

I did not flush it up with the end of the crank like it said too initially..
I looked into this way after the job was done..
And my old bearing was fully seated or more then flush I believe back into the crank which may have been wrong done previously as well.
I had my brother remove the old one while I was getting new parts and he said he recalled it being further in then flush. This write up step 15 Is from somewhere in the forum

How to: Change Clutch 96-2003 2.2 and 4.3 5speed ->>

I didn’t understand the need to only leave the bearing flush …..Until thinking about it after the entire job was done . My thoughts are does tightening the bell housing bolts with the bearing “flush” pull the “Input shaft “ and bearing together further into the crank once they meet or Is it absolutely important to only leave the new bearing flush with the Crank before the trans input shaft is in .
I don’t wanna feel like I ended up seating the bearing in too far and the input shaft isn’t even riding on it causing a vibration now .
Point being regardless of leaving it flush or pressing it all the way in, does the input shaft length made too naturally meet the pilot bearing No ‘matter how far it’s seated in once the bell housing is fully tightened.
Trans shop guy said ehh… the input Tip is the only part of the input shaft that goes into the crank. None of the splined area would go into the crank end . Therefore If I pre seated the bearing to far in theres technically a chance I could be not on the bearing …
He said 4th gear would make noise or pop out of gear possibly if that’s the case . But I’ve been driving it and nothing like that . Aside from a very hardly noticeable vibration 😳

This pic added Below is what some are saying it looks like with a seated tightened bell housing and the input shaft riding on bearing flush with the crank shaft . Well my bearing is inset deeper thinking it should be tapped in until it fully seats 😐

The write up said this
…….Step 15: Put the pilot bushing in to the edge of the crankshaft.
Now put the clutch disc and the pressure plate back on the flywheel, install the bolts just tight enough to hold the pressure plate on. Now put in the alignment tool, going through the pressure plate and lining the splines up . push in all the way. Now Remove one bolt at a time and apply Loctite to a few threads and install in a cross pattern.

Torque to 33 FT/LBS for 2.2
29 ft/lbs for 4.3
Now remove the alignment tool.
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