[NotSlownoma]

I have a 1998 SLS GMC Sonoma 4.3l Vortec, and she makes about 190 horsepower. Im saving my money right now, as im only 15 and dont have a job yet, but im trying to turn my noma into a race truck... I know about the half moon lip thing on the throttle blade, and im 100% changing that. Im also planning on a cold air intake and a turbocharger. Are there any more ways of maximizing my horsepower and I AM NOT LS SWAPPING!!! i want to keep the original engine! If you guys have any ideas on helping me get this truck to be a corvette killer, please let me know!!! Thanks

 

[manbearpig]

It would take a lot of money to make a 4.3l pickup into something that can "kill" Corvettes. Get a job, keep saving your money, and get a good career going first... then decide if you still want to dump too much money into an old truck.

 

[aitch]

It would take a lot of money to make a 4.3l pickup into something that can "kill" Corvettes. Get a job, keep saving your money, and get a good career going first... then decide if you still want to dump too much money into an old truck.

........except maybe for that oh so rare Vette' w/ a 4 banger under the hood!

 

[PeteD]

I have a 1998 SLS GMC Sonoma 4.3l Vortec, and she makes about 190 horsepower. Im saving my money right now, as im only 15 and dont have a job yet, but im trying to turn my noma into a race truck... I know about the half moon lip thing on the throttle blade, and im 100% changing that. Im also planning on a cold air intake and a turbocharger. Are there any more ways of maximizing my horsepower and I AM NOT LS SWAPPING!!! i want to keep the original engine! If you guys have any ideas on helping me get this truck to be a corvette killer, please let me know!!! Thanks

Money spent on daily driver should be for maintenance only and keep it OE . Never make your daily a racer , you'll be walking a lot . Put excess Cash into a 2nd vehicle that doesn't mind being broken once in a while.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Well, you’re going to be a little disappointed. Most people that remove the diffuser on the TB grow tired of it and replace the TB. You already have a cold air intake that’s better than K&N. You could always replace the flat filter with a K&N. Just be aware that you’re probably going to take a little ribbing on your plan. Just put on the body armor and fire suit…you’ll be fine….😂😂

 

[Brawndo]

Best thing you could do for the butt dyno feel is put a much lower gear in the rear end. Numerically higher. If you have a 3:42 put in something like a 4:10. Will make your engine reve higher at highway speed. It will also throw off your speedometer but you can get the correction programmed in. And if you want it to sound bad a** put in an electrical exhaust cutout infront of the muffler. Dougs is one of the better brands. So for around $1500 you could make your truck feel and sound faster. Rear end ratios that should work in your truck are below.
GU4=3.08
GU5=3.23
GU6=3.42
GT4=3.73
GT5=4.10
HC4=4.56
Link to Dougs cutouts Doug Coutout

 

[PeteD]

I have a 1998 SLS GMC Sonoma 4.3l Vortec, and she makes about 190 horsepower. Im saving my money right now, as im only 15 and dont have a job yet, but im trying to turn my noma into a race truck... I know about the half moon lip thing on the throttle blade, and im 100% changing that. Im also planning on a cold air intake and a turbocharger. Are there any more ways of maximizing my horsepower and I AM NOT LS SWAPPING!!! i want to keep the original engine! If you guys have any ideas on helping me get this truck to be a corvette killer, please let me know!!! Thanks

Least expensive horse power besides the ones you already have is reducing the weight they haul. Usually only time consuming to eliminate every unneeded ounce from you vehicle. Each 100# off is approximately equal to adding 10hp.

 

[Dan_in_WA]

I was once 15 myself (ok, a looooong time ago) and I recognize what you’re thinking. Here’s what I finally learned, hopefully it will help you get ahead in this game.

HP = (Torque x RPM) / 5252

The 5252 number is a constant because we’re talking about a 4 cycle engine (power, exhaust, intake and compression strokes).

The Butt Dyno matches the torque curve more than the HP curve. As you can see from the formula the only way to increase HP at any given RPM is to increase the torque at that RPM.

So why not just raise the RPM to raise the HP number? Because as the RPM goes up, so do wear and friction. And those cost you torque! If you’re really unlucky you get to watch what happens when a rod exits the block at an extremely high rate of speed…

Turning a 4.3L engine in a 24 year old Sonoma into a Corvette killer will cost about as much as just buying a good used ‘Vette. There are no demon tweaks, just cold hard engineering realities.

Establish a reasonable redline for the engine of roughly 5500 RPM. For a naturally aspirated 262 cubic inch engine I’ll pick 1.2 HP per cubic inch as the HP goal that will still keep it street driveable without overheating and so on. That’s pushing 315 HP. It also assumes that there are aftermarket parts available to reach this goal - and I wouldn’t bet on it.

If you’re determined to build gobs of torque with a V-6 below 5,500 RPM I think the best options would be turbocharging or nitrous oxide.

Read everything you can find on these subjects. Bentley Publishers put out a good book on the subject written by Corky Bell (IIRC) and is called Maximum Boost.

Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, and Installing Turbocharger Systems

Buy Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, And Installing Turbocharger Systems Paperback Book By: Corky Bell from as low as $16.36.

www.secondsale.com

Nitrous kits should be fairly well designed, just don’t try to go too big. You may need some fabrication skills, I don’t know because I’ve never installed one.

And once the engine is building all that power you have to get it to the pavement without a lot of tire hopping and spinning. So read up on weight transfer and how the suspension works. Best to bring your math skills as this involves engineering topics.

 

[oldeerslayer]

A new $85,000 840HP Dodge Demon can't beat a new Corvette and you'd like to make a 25 year old cheap azz pickup truck capable of doing it? Good luck!

C8 Corvette Z06 and Dodge Demon Drag and Roll Race Battle at Willow Springs Raceway - LS1Tech.com

The Corvette Z06 is newer and much lighter than the Dodge Demon. But the Demon has much more power and was built for drag and roll racing.

ls1tech.com

If you can find someone with a base engine1975 C3 you might stand a chance. Maybe.
The 1975 L-48 Corvette is the lowest horsepower Corvette ever built, producing just 165 horsepower.
Even the California only 1980 Corvette with an LG4 305 had 180 HP. You'd lose.
Or someone with an original 53 or 54 Corvette with the 150 HP Blue Flame 235 in. inline 6 and 2 speed Powerglide trans could probably be beat.
Bottom line is if you pick which Corvette very carefully that you chose to race you might win. Better stick with racing Priuses or an occasional 54 HP 1985 -92 Yugo. At 15 doubt you've ever heard of one and will likely never see a Yugo.
The Yugo was a small car made in the former nation of Yugoslavia that survives in the American consciousness as the worst car ever. Poorly engineered, ugly, and cheap. Built by the former gun manufacturer Zastava.
I own a 30-06 Zastava bolt action deer rifle and it's a fine gun. Very accurate and came standard with a 2 stage set trigger. Usually only found on match grade rifles. It's a shame they partnered with Fiat to build cars.

1992^
1995:

 

[PeteD]

It's fun to be 15 and have a cool dream.
As I recall in 1962 El Paso watching the hot iron of the day bust off the line , street racing , or at Sunday events held on Shopping Mall parking lots available due to Tx Sun closing laws. There was lotsa high HP cars available then.

 

[NotSlownoma]

Money spent on daily driver should be for maintenance only and keep it OE . Never make your daily a racer , you'll be walking a lot . Put excess Cash into a 2nd vehicle that doesn't mind being broken once in a while.

It wont be my daily driver, this truck will specifically be for racing

 

[Dan_in_WA]

Just out of curiosity is it 2wd or 4wd?

 

[NotSlownoma]

I was once 15 myself (ok, a looooong time ago) and I recognize what you’re thinking. Here’s what I finally learned, hopefully it will help you get ahead in this game.

HP = (Torque x RPM) / 5252

The 5252 number is a constant because we’re talking about a 4 cycle engine (power, exhaust, intake and compression strokes).

The Butt Dyno matches the torque curve more than the HP curve. As you can see from the formula the only way to increase HP at any given RPM is to increase the torque at that RPM.

So why not just raise the RPM to raise the HP number? Because as the RPM goes up, so do wear and friction. And those cost you torque! If you’re really unlucky you get to watch what happens when a rod exits the block at an extremely high rate of speed…

Turning a 4.3L engine in a 24 year old Sonoma into a Corvette killer will cost about as much as just buying a good used ‘Vette. There are no demon tweaks, just cold hard engineering realities.

Establish a reasonable redline for the engine of roughly 5500 RPM. For a naturally aspirated 262 cubic inch engine I’ll pick 1.2 HP per cubic inch as the HP goal that will still keep it street driveable without overheating and so on. That’s pushing 315 HP. It also assumes that there are aftermarket parts available to reach this goal - and I wouldn’t bet on it.

If you’re determined to build gobs of torque with a V-6 below 5,500 RPM I think the best options would be turbocharging or nitrous oxide.

Read everything you can find on these subjects. Bentley Publishers put out a good book on the subject written by Corky Bell (IIRC) and is called Maximum Boost.

Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, and Installing Turbocharger Systems

Buy Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, And Installing Turbocharger Systems Paperback Book By: Corky Bell from as low as $16.36.

www.secondsale.com

Nitrous kits should be fairly well designed, just don’t try to go too big. You may need some fabrication skills, I don’t know because I’ve never installed one.

And once the engine is building all that power you have to get it to the pavement without a lot of tire hopping and spinning. So read up on weight transfer and how the suspension works. Best to bring your math skills as this involves engineering topics.

Ive already got a list of items im going to buy to add a turbo. im slapping on a gt35 Turbocharger, Turbosmart Wastegate, Marine Intake Manifold that gets rid of the crappy spider fuel injection, and a from mount intercooler. im estimating if i add those all + my throttle blade mod and by cold air intake, i should be pushing 360 ish horsepower. Ill also be buying some stronger and higher grade engine parts, maybe a race cam shaft and some other things. Right now my entire build list including all of my interior and exterior mods im looking at about 3 grand...

 

[NotSlownoma]

Just out of curiosity is it 2wd or 4wd?

2wd

 

[Dan_in_WA]

From what I’ve read (FWIW) a boosted engine needs a cam with wider lobe centers. The last time I looked at this subject the Isky Cams lobe centers were around 108 degrees. For a super- or turbocharged engine 112 degrees was recommended. Just something to look into. My information is pretty dated.

I don’t know how far active intercoolers have come, but rumor has it that some guys have gotten them to work.

Active intercooling is not just an air-to-air or air-to-water intercooler but is an evaporator such as in an A/C system. Theoretically they can really drive those air temperatures down.

 

[oldeerslayer]

It would be simpler and much more drivable if you swapped in a 1996 LT1. With a dyno tune they can easily reach your 360HP goal. An LT4 cam and heads could get you over 400 easily without all the additional complexity of a turbo. Much easier to tune and maintain. More importantly for racing normally aspirated is also more consistent.
Since it's going to be a race truck you can start now on the no cost process of reducing the trucks weight by gutting the interior completely including removing all HVAC components. Might be able to sell most of pieces to start raising cash for the build. You can also remove and sell the transmission and rearend since those won't survive in a race only truck for very long. Both bumpers can go now too along with the front sway bar. Just dead weight on a race truck.
Time to get a job, too. You'll need an income to campaign a race vehicle.

 

[Salty Crusty]

Find a 4-bolt main L31 engine, stroke it and have somebody that knows their way around Vortec heads to clean 'em up. Upgrade injectors or go with the Marine setup. You'll make a good bit more power than the V6, even with the turbo, probably for less money. Have it dyno tuned and you're good to go. You get to drive your 6-banger right up to swap time and by that time, hopefully you'll have enough sense to know how to drive a fast truck. Not a knock on you, but most early drivers are clueless and can't handle big power. Hell, some of us are old farts and still can't handle 500hp.
Oh, and tires. You're gonna need lots and lots of tires.

 

[PeteD]

Several similar run in optima series. Info on those builds is on various media including YouTube LP

I have a 1998 SLS GMC Sonoma 4.3l Vortec, and she makes about 190 horsepower. Im saving my money right now, as im only 15 and dont have a job yet, but im trying to turn my noma into a race truck... I know about the half moon lip thing on the throttle blade, and im 100% changing that. Im also planning on a cold air intake and a turbocharger. Are there any more ways of maximizing my horsepower and I AM NOT LS SWAPPING!!! i want to keep the original engine! If you guys have any ideas on helping me get this truck to be a corvette killer, please let me know!!! Thanks

Corvette 'Killers' always need a support vehicle for hauling all the nifty race parts. Fixing up an vintage datsun, toyota mini pickup will help develop mechanical, fabrication skills needed. As a plus , once it's successfully running , a reliable utility vehicle is available for daily's.

 

[Salty Crusty]

Ive already got a list of items im going to buy to add a turbo. im slapping on a gt35 Turbocharger, Turbosmart Wastegate, Marine Intake Manifold that gets rid of the crappy spider fuel injection, and a from mount intercooler. im estimating if i add those all + my throttle blade mod and by cold air intake, i should be pushing 360 ish horsepower. Ill also be buying some stronger and higher grade engine parts, maybe a race cam shaft and some other things. Right now my entire build list including all of my interior and exterior mods im looking at about 3 grand...

Double or triple your number. Don't believe me? Ask anybody who's done a project truck through to completion. By the time you buy everything, 3 grand ain't gonna cover even parts.

 

[PeteD]

Double or triple your number. Don't believe me? Ask anybody who's done a project truck through to completion. By the time you buy everything, 3 grand ain't gonna cover even parts.

Tru That. But never admit to what it co$t or how many hours you have in it !