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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have ah 95 reg cab 2.2 5 speed dime . i have a complete setup from ah 95 z28 . My first issue was getting it in the hole . i'm using 2.8 v8 conv. mounts and couldn't get to drop in . I read somewhere that i needed to trim the bottom ears off my mounting brackets . I did that then it dropped right in but fu**ked up my freshly coated headman headers . When using swap mounts do u guys use the high or low settings ? Also i couldn't get my stering shaft hooked back up with the headers on. My drive shaft ended up being to long so how much can i safely shorten it ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also my wiring harness was reworked by jims performance to be a stand-alone setup . What can i do to have my lt1 ecm run the whole truck ?
 

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Mine Drags The Ground
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With my 94 im useing the upper hole cuz im boby dropped, no idea about he ecm
 

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Mine Drags The Ground
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yes that is true
 

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Head Lifeguard
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You need to leave at least 1/2" of play for the driveshaft if you get it shortened. I would place your yoke fully into the tranny, then back it out half an inch and mark where the rear seal is on the yoke with a sharpie. Pull it out, then measure from the rear seal to the outer face of the back of where your u-joint goes into the rear end. Transfer this measurement to your driveshaft, starting from the line on the yoke and marking the endpoint on your drive shaft. You should now be able to measure from this mark to the back of the fixed u-joint cap on the driveshaft. That measurement will be how much you need to shorten it.
 

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i just finished my 93 vette lt1 in my 94 s10. It is a pain but worth it. I have the hedman shorty headers. I'm not fond of headers because they rarely fit right but i did'nt want to use the factory manifolds. When I 1st installed the engine i put it in the higher postion. the oil pan and headers cleared nicely but i did'nt like the final angle of the engine so i opted to cut the ears off of the mounts and set it lower. This created oil pan and left header clearance problems. the front corners of the oil pan barely touched the crossmember and the underside of the header tube was touching the steering shaft and was deathly close to the upper control arm. I had to relieve the header tube and oil pan to gain clearance. I also had to cut the extra meat out of the upper control arm and weld some steel for strength so the control arm would not contact the header on bumpy roads. As far as the ecm running the truck...if it is standalone then most of the extra circuits probably have been deleted. I went with a standalone harness fron Howell EFI and it is bare bones. All gauges and hvac systems had to be "standalone" form the truck to the engine. Its really not that bad to do but requires time and patience....and a wiring diagram. Good luck. Believe me when i say it is worth it in the end.
 

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Which headers are you using and what mounts?
 
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