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Discussion Starter #1
Im having issues with bolting on the aftermarket lowering spindle to my passenger side.

the problems im having is the bolt from the lower control arm is stripped and I can’t turn the castle by hand as well asthe sway bar bolt that I can’t screw on the castle but by hand, and if I try to use a socket wrench it just spins the bolt with the nut, any way I can fix this fast or replace easily?
 

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Sometimes you can get away with placing your jack under the balljoint lift it up a little trying to put the joint in a bind so you can tighten it. Be sure to spray brakekleen on the joint shaft and the hole in the spindle to get rid of any grease.
 
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He's saying the threads on the ball joint's center stud are stripped. The safe thing to do would be to replace that ball joint. Not a good idea to drive a vehicle with stripped threads on primary suspension components.
If you want to take a chance on your life, go ahead. But don't do it on the highways we share with you.
 

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In defense of my statement, I have had people tell me their joint is stripped out because they turn with the crown nut and the actual threads are fine.


If the joint is stripped now is the best time to replace the entire control arm. I paid 160.00 for both lower arms from rockauto and they arrived 2 days later.. It is less time consuming than doing bushings and balljoints.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
He's saying the threads on the ball joint's center stud are stripped. The safe thing to do would be to replace that ball joint. Not a good idea to drive a vehicle with stripped threads on primary suspension components.
If you want to take a chance on your life, go ahead. But don't do it on the highways we share with you.
Yes yes this it, is it difficult to replace the ball joints?
 

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Yes yes this it, is it difficult to replace the ball joints?
If they have been changed before and the rivots were replaced with nuts and bolts your good.. If the rivots are there and you don't have a hotwrench, angle grinder or an air chisel you are in for it. Still way cheaper to by complete assemblies.
 
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time to get cereal
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He's talking about the lowers... they are pressed, no bolts or rivets, that's the uppers.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Sometimes you can get away with placing your jack under the balljoint lift it up a little trying to put the joint in a bind so you can tighten it. Be sure to spray brakekleen on the joint shaft and the hole in the spindle to get rid of any grease.
Thank you to everyone! this is actually what i ended up doing with the lower ball joint and the tie rod joint worked perfectly!, now my s10 is sitting nice with 2 inch drop in the front and 3 inch drop in the back :D
heres a before and after, i might be getting some irocz in 2-3 weeks
341981
341982
 

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Glad you got it done. Sometimes it feels like there is no end to the task when things get difficult. I just did my drop on my 4 door and I had an issue with the pass side lower ball joint.....got me so angry I ordered 2 MOOG lower control arms from rockauto lol.. As it stands I am 2" front and 3" angled blocks with new upper and lower arms.The front is just a little too high compared to the rear so I ordered 1" DJM coils... No more for the blazer it's all about the Street Truck now.....
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Glad you got it done. Sometimes it feels like there is no end to the task when things get difficult. I just did my drop on my 4 door and I had an issue with the pass side lower ball joint.....got me so angry I ordered 2 MOOG lower control arms from rockauto lol.. As it stands I am 2" front and 3" angled blocks with new upper and lower arms.The front is just a little too high compared to the rear so I ordered 1" DJM coils... No more for the blazer it's all about the Street Truck now.....
Honestly I was ready to start crying until I came into the conclusion that maybe I should apply more pressure with the jack. Anyways glad to hear about your truck! I want to drop it some more, maybe 3 inch leaf springs in the back and maybe some 2-3 inch lowering coils for the front and sadly the irocs I was gonna buy were sold, hopefully I can find some at the same price soon!
 

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I wouldn't suggest any coils that drop more than the ZQ8 springs, your suspension travel starts to suffer. ZQ8 springs and tall lower ball joints are a better way of achieving 2" of drop. You can remove the rubber coil insulators for slightly more drop also.
 

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I wouldn't suggest any coils that drop more than the ZQ8 springs, your suspension travel starts to suffer. ZQ8 springs and tall lower ball joints are a better way of achieving 2" of drop. You can remove the rubber coil insulators for slightly more drop also.
100% on point
 

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I'm down 4 in front and 5 in back thats with spindles an blocks on zq8 an there is very little travel in the suspension. where are you located? I have my stock zq8 wheels laying around ( northeast indiana)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm down 4 in front and 5 in back thats with spindles an blocks on zq8 an there is very little travel in the suspension. where are you located? I have my stock zq8 wheels laying around ( northeast indiana)
im located in Long Beach bro, I’m getting the camaro lt wheels for 250 on offer up but I’m waiting for my adapter/spacer to come in so I can mount them on, the postal service lost the package, luckily the place where I ordered the adapters are gonna 2nd another package so I might just go get the wheels so I don’t lose out on a great deal
 
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