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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I bought this truck I didn't know what kind of oil was in it. Maybe it was really thin, or cheap, or ???

It looked dark, as I was expecting, when it was draining, but that's all I paid attention to at the time.

The oil level was always correct when I checked it, and I never needed to top it off.

Otherwise I am not sure why 5w40 and a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer improved the oil pressure It was just an experiment on my part that seems to have worked.

Before the oil change, I was worried, because I thought pressure was sometimes lower than it should be. (worrying about possible oil system problems)

Examples (before the oil change)
After warmup, it mostly showed 20 PSI, and mostly around 30 PSI at 2500-3500 RPM
Once, after driving it for about 40 miles, and then just idling for a short while, it was showing 10 PSI.
 

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03 GMC Sonoma SLS & 04 Chevrolet Blazer Ls
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Had the same issue on my 04 Chevy Blazer with 4.3 L oil pressure was extremely low especially in drive at a stop. After I removed the factory oil cooler, my oil pressure came back up. Here's a picture of my oil pressure at idle in drive at a stop after the 4.3L is warmed up.

Speedometer Odometer Gauge Tachometer Fuel gauge
 

· Boozebag
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Sometimes the factory electric oil pressure sender becomes weak after lots of miles.
I suggest sourcing a mechanical gauge and seeing what actual pressure is.
 

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mechanical gauge and seeing what actual pressure is.
this is number 1

never trust a gauge.
i didn't see engine or mileage posted.

if its over 100k i wouldn't use 5 in anything i owned. id switch to 10-40, or depeindingn on climate and mileage straight 30, or 20w-50.

BUT you said idle at 10psi and 30 while driving is really all a bone stock engine ever needs.
Rule of thumb, if it doesn't make any noise, its good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Had the same issue on my 04 Chevy Blazer with 4.3 L oil pressure was extremely low especially in drive at a stop. After I removed the factory oil cooler, my oil pressure came back up. Here's a picture of my oil pressure at idle in drive at a stop after the 4.3L is warmed up.

View attachment 370495
Thanks for your reply. I didn't know the engine has an oil cooler. This is important information and I appreciate the tip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
this is number 1

never trust a gauge.
i didn't see engine or mileage posted.

if its over 100k i wouldn't use 5 in anything i owned. id switch to 10-40, or depeindingn on climate and mileage straight 30, or 20w-50.

BUT you said idle at 10psi and 30 while driving is really all a bone stock engine ever needs.
Rule of thumb, if it doesn't make any noise, its good.
Thanks for your reply. I will change oil soon and will certainly switch to 10w40. Thanks for the oil SAE information.
 

· time to get cereal
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2.2l engines do not like thick oil... Your pressure may increase but your flow will decrease.

My gauge sat at 10psi for over 150k miles and 15 years before it ever gave me any problems. Used nothing but 5w30 full synthetic and made it nearly 300k miles.
 

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When I bought this truck I didn't know what kind of oil was in it. Maybe it was really thin, or cheap, or ???

It looked dark, as I was expecting, when it was draining, but that's all I paid attention to at the time.

The oil level was always correct when I checked it, and I never needed to top it off.

Otherwise I am not sure why 5w40 and a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer improved the oil pressure It was just an experiment on my part that seems to have worked.

Before the oil change, I was worried, because I thought pressure was sometimes lower than it should be. (worrying about possible oil system problems)

Examples (before the oil change)
After warmup, it mostly showed 20 PSI, and mostly around 30 PSI at 2500-3500 RPM
Once, after driving it for about 40 miles, and then just idling for a short while, it was showing 10 PSI.
Verify oil pressure with quality mech gage before making assumptions about engine condition. Electric types can be erroneous .
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
2.2l engines do not like thick oil... Your pressure may increase but your flow will decrease.

My gauge sat at 10psi for over 150k miles and 15 years before it ever gave me any problems. Used nothing but 5w30 full synthetic and made it nearly 300k miles.
Thank you, Manbearpig.

I long for the good old days, those oil changes twice per year . .. . Put SAE 30 into your vehicle, in the Spring, and then, SAE 20, in the Fall. Life was so much simpler those days. I would be happy to forget this multi-grade crap. But then again, I do believe what was explained about why multi-grade oils are a good idea. Probably not crap . . . I guess :rolleyes:

I appreciate your advice. Several Forum members have said the same thing, low PSI is not anything to panic about - - the low numbers worried me, but that is because I made assumptions without doing any learning before making them.

GEEZ . . . Next oil change, I probably won't be using 5w40 again. I will then simply ignore the occasional 20's and 10's PSI values.

I still don't know how many miles are on my 2.2. Previous owner told me the truck engine had been replaced, and said that is what the previous-previoius owner claimed.

Hindsight on my part, I didn't ask for any paper/receipts for engine replacement, when I bought the truck. That would that proven that such work was actually done.

Hey what do you think about a theory I have = The filter screen at the output of the oil pump was partly clogged, and the 5w40 oil change somehow cleaned out the crud.

It my theory just happens to be correct, then I bet I can go back to Chevy S10 Owner's Manual recommendations = 5w30 in cold weather and 10w30 in hot weather.
 

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Your Lucas is what brought the pressure up, more than the higher viscosity of oil. Lucas is thick, probably close to 80 - 100wt, this thickens everything, makes it harder to push through the system, pressure reads higher.
I have a 2002 truck with a 5.3L in it. Swapped from Fram to Wix filter, filled with 5W30 and added a bottle of Lucas. Pressure went from 20 idle/45 on the road to 30 idle/60 on the road. Other than viscosity, Lucas has a ton of additives and helps oil cling rather than being shed as thinner oils are. I'd probably try 30wt with Lucas, your pressures will probably be the same as 40wt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Your Lucas is what brought the pressure up, more than the higher viscosity of oil. Lucas is thick, probably close to 80 - 100wt, this thickens everything, makes it harder to push through the system, pressure reads higher.
I have a 2002 truck with a 5.3L in it. Swapped from Fram to Wix filter, filled with 5W30 and added a bottle of Lucas. Pressure went from 20 idle/45 on the road to 30 idle/60 on the road. Other than viscosity, Lucas has a ton of additives and helps oil cling rather than being shed as thinner oils are. I'd probably try 30wt with Lucas, your pressures will probably be the same as 40wt.
Thanks, Salty Crusty! I appreciate your info !!!
. . .
RE Oil filters, thanks for mentioning it . . . I have been using Wix filters for a long time, and back then, I bought into the popular idea that Fram filters are actually no good at all.
. . .
A surprise is that some people report getting excellent results using Fram filters. Hmmmm. Maybe so, but, I think I will continue with Wix anyway. What I remember is someone presented on the internet a comparison pair of photos, a Wix filter disassembled next to some other brand (forgot) of filter, with comments about "just cardboard inside". Kind of brainwashed me, I guess.
 

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Through my own wasted time and money using trial and error, I have arrived at a short list of stuff I use on my junk for maintenance, etc.
Trans-X is pretty good, Lucas oil stabilizer is the ****, Wix filters have never let me down and damned near any oil will be just fine as long as it's filtered and changed as it should be. Don't skimp on brake pads - the cheap junk dusts up your wheels and that PITA is enough on its own to step up to better pads.
Most additives are worthless as are most Mickey Mouse devices to help with power, emissions, whatever.
In a room full of superheroes, look for the baddest of the bad, Chuck Norris. Easy to find, he'll be the one NOT wearing leotards. Same with sales ads for all the **** on the market for cars nowadays. If it's good, it doesn't need a flashy package to sell it.
Rant over, Merry Christmas everybody!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Through my own wasted time and money using trial and error, I have arrived at a short list of stuff I use on my junk for maintenance, etc.
Trans-X is pretty good, Lucas oil stabilizer is the ****, Wix filters have never let me down and damned near any oil will be just fine as long as it's filtered and changed as it should be. Don't skimp on brake pads - the cheap junk dusts up your wheels and that PITA is enough on its own to step up to better pads.
Most additives are worthless as are most Mickey Mouse devices to help with power, emissions, whatever.
In a room full of superheroes, look for the baddest of the bad, Chuck Norris. Easy to find, he'll be the one NOT wearing leotards. Same with sales ads for all the **** on the market for cars nowadays. If it's good, it doesn't need a flashy package to sell it.
Rant over, Merry Christmas everybody!!!
Good rant! Keep up the good work!
Merry Christmas back to you, Salty Crusty.
 
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