97LOWNOMA said:
my current setup is a 2-JL 10" w3's (4 ohm dvc) and the older fosgate 500*2 channel amp (rated at 766watts). my truck is setup with the amp in the middle and the subs to the sides of the amp. imo my truck sounds great (excellent quality) inside the vechicle but when u get outside the vechicle it's not as loud as i'd like it to be.
You should want to minimize the amount of sound outside. Driving around bumping for all to hear only gives stereo enthusiests a bad name and gives lawmakers more ammo against us. Many towns have distance rules in effect as is. Sorry, it's a big pet pev of mine when someone talks about how they want to be heard from blocks away.
i am planning on building another box and this time i want the amp to mount to either the floor or the wall (more air space). i am hoping with the extra air space that i can get more sound outta it.
The amount of airspace you need will depend entirely on the subs you chose and what kind of sound you are going for. If you get 1.25ft^3 sealed each that may work great for company A, but make company B's subs sound horrible.
i am also considering upgrading some of my components. i was thinking maybe a the kicker 800*2 or a hifonics amp and i am undecided on the subs.
Depending on what ohms the amp can handle and what power it will put out will help decide what subs you can use. I'd say keep the W-3's, but that's just me. L7's would be real nice as well, but I believe they are over your 6" mounting depth limit you specified below.
i would like to keep my current 8 gague power wire (but will upgrade if nessesary), and i would like to find a excellent sub with around a 6" mounting depth or less. i am also undecided if i should go with 2 10's or 2 12's.
NOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You should not be running 8 gauge to begin with!!!! That amp should be drawing 80+ amps at full tilt, and that's WAY too much for 8 gauge to handle for a full distance run. You should'nt exceed 60 amps on 8 gauge. You should be running 4 gauge from the battery back. I would suggest upgrading wire when you re-install. Right now you are losing close to a volt by the amp just because of the resistance in the wire trying to pass that much current. What that means is you are really losing power from your amp, because even when your alternator is spitting out 14.4 volts, you amp is only living off about 13.5 volts. I can't stress enough how much you need to upgrade that wiring!!!
And like I said above, tens, not 12's. Very difficult to get the proper airspace, and mounting depth kills. Most 12's are deeper than tens from the same company, plus the center of the sub mounts higher, meaning even more leg room killed.