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Awesome man, i have always liked the watts link better than a panhard bar. I have always had one question though. Wouldnt just having a triangulated link setup prevent even needing a watts link or panhard bar? So why would someone get a paralell link setup and have to pay an extra $500 for a watts link when they could have just got a triangulated link to start and avoided any of it?
- Mike
 

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Hola Bitches
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looks really nice ..and cool vid ..
 

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ya, theres not much need for a watts on a s10, since you cant fit a parrallel kit in there very easily..
 

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thepunkerguy said:
Awesome man, i have always liked the watts link better than a panhard bar. I have always had one question though. Wouldnt just having a triangulated link setup prevent even needing a watts link or panhard bar? So why would someone get a paralell link setup and have to pay an extra $500 for a watts link when they could have just got a triangulated link to start and avoided any of it?
- Mike
Because 4 link's bind when one end of the axle moves up and the other end moves down. They impart twising forces on the axle turning it into something similar to a swaybar. Triangulated 4 links can cause a lot of bind if they're not set up well due to the bars themselves twisting.
In most cases the bushings take most of the abuse and for casual driving you'd never notice. For performance driving, the binding forces are things that are harder to account for, so using a setup that doesn't bind means the suspension is going to act more predictably.
Also, you may not be able to get the trianglulated bars mounted in a way that gives you a proper rear roll center height. With a panhard bar or a watts link, you can mount it where you need it to be to acheive this. (or at least closer)
 
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