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One Bad Dude
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there has to be a little grinding done on the control arms in order to put on longtubes. Will the amount that needs to be ground off increase with about a 5" drop in front? Or is it far enough back on the control arm where it wont really matter?
 

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Static> Bags
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Mike has long tubes and hes on a 5/6 drop, they dont hang lower then the frame.
 

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One Bad Dude
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool. I didn't know if the drop increased the angle of the control arm enough for it to rub more than stock.
 

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Gaaoooooo
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Keep in mind, Boosted's truck is a 1st gen and the headers are made for 1st gen trucks not 2nd gen trucks, the only guy I know of that has done this on a 2nd gen is Graniteguy and I know he does not have a 5" drop.
 

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Static> Bags
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MINTSICK said:
Keep in mind, Boosted's truck is a 1st gen and the headers are made for 1st gen trucks not 2nd gen trucks, the only guy I know of that has done this on a 2nd gen is Graniteguy and I know he does not have a 5" drop.
True very true, i want to say that there was someone else running long tubes on a 2nd gen.

What about makign ur own? There not hard.
 

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I had a lot of drop after installing the front coilovers. About 3 months later I finally lifted them up about 3-4 inches. to a normal stance. The hard part is gonna be merging the pipes together and including a cat. That wasn't a factor on my set up. the pipes end a few inches before the trans crossmember on each side. Only one side has a cut out to allow the pipe to continue since with the stock set up both pipes were probably merged together before that point. I finally got some half decent pics taken of how I ran it. You'll have to figure out how to include a cat in the system.







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the second pic shows where the header ends. It's right at the crossmember cutout. If memory serves me right this is where the y pipe ended.

On the third pic it shows how it will hit the crossmember on the driveres side if you continue straight. i had them both "s" upwards to keep them even. The passenger side was after the crossmember, the drivers side was immediate to go over the crossmember.

I just added hangers to the back of the cab to hold it all up (first pic). It's not a bad deal for someone who wants to lay frame. It's all tuckerd up even with the driveshaft. I'll add turndowns to it at a later date.

I would think any exhaust shop could make it work out with cats and o2 sensors.
 

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I keep forgetting I don't have stuff like..ummm... a gas tank ....and probably other stuff I have ripped out that may get in the way for some else.
 

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Gaaoooooo
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graniteguy said:
I keep forgetting I don't have stuff like..ummm... a gas tank ....and probably other stuff I have ripped out that may get in the way for some else.
Right, the gas tank would be the biggest obstacle. Could always bring both pipes down the right side if wanting to stay true duals or just have a y pipe made to put them into a single system.
 

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Honest Abe's Fab Shoppe
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you have any under hood pics? or is it to crowded in there. I want to see the clearance of the upper control arms. If there's room, I'd love to do this! Only problem is i have a bagged truck that lays 26" tires... so the control arms go WAY up.
 

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I had no problems when it was lowered. It only hit one part of the control arms only on the drivers side. It was just the large washer next to the nut on the pivot point. Nothing else touches or gets close to touching. I grinded a little off and it was fine.
 

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pic 1- follow the front tube back. It barely goes over the control arm. If it was a tubular control arm istead of stamped it would probably clear no problem. Grind a little off and you are done.

pic 3 shows drivers side. How it goes around steering shaft. It's easy to remove the shaft and was the best way to install it. Both sides are two piece. Pic one shows the joint where thr front tubes slips in right at the control arm. They look like **** in about one week after running. Very rusty.





 

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i think it is even with the frame. It's at the same level as the driveshaft.

Look at where the header ends in the pics then look under your truck. The y pipe/cat is gonna be the issue. some s -bends will allow to hang it higher or lower so it's not an issue. The y-pipe and cats are the issue in a street legal set up.
 

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I got my headers on the truck a week or so ago, i had to do a deacent ammount of gringing on the driverside control arm. I have 4 banger coils in the front. on my truck of i wanted to slam it i would need tubular upper control arms.

How did you guys get the slip fit front tubes to seal? Id weld them but thers not enoughf room and then the headers wouldent come out, ever. The collectors are above the frame though, not going to drag.
 

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Gone Fisting!
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Whoa thats a nice job on the headers i'm hoping to do soemthing along those lines with my 4.3, tbi. on my 2nd gen hopefully soon
 

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graniteguy did you not have to do anythang to seal the slipfit tubes?
 
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