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· Registered
Chevy, S-10, 2002, V6 RWD
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·

2002, 4.3, 2wd, short single cab, 86,000 miles. Came from Ohio from one owner, its been in Michigan with me for about 3 months (2000 miles) now.

When it was still warm when it was purchased, I didn't really notice this much, but as its starting to get colder, the time it takes to start is getting longer and longer. It always starts, then its totally fine, but in the warm weather it would take normal time to maybe 2 seconds to todays longest (17 degrees F) 5 seconds, two key turns.

No weird idling, stalling, engine seizures, or anything. It kindof coughed to life this morning but it was fine once it started. I took it to the Zone and had them hook it to their machine. It threw a code for the MAF which is probably why the Service Engine Soon light keeps coming on and off. I cleaned it with some MAF cleaner and let it dry, but that virtually did nothing.

I've been digging through these forms but am getting alot of different answers.

MAF - despite cleaning, can these actually go bad?
Fuel Pump - despite its long starting, I took it on 3 or 4 trips of over 3 hours without any issues.
Distributor cap - I'll check this this week and update this thread.

Should I just replace the MAF? What do you all think?

· Been there Done it
16,795 Posts
You need to know the KOEO fuel pressure and any codes to do any diagnostics on a 2002.
Do a fuel pressure test first. Most common reason for long start or no start on the 4.3 of that era. AZ will loan you a fuel pressure tester. Should be 60psi with key on engine off. Then when you turn the key off it should drop a couple pounds and then hold fairly steady. It will most likely eventually start to decrease but you shouldn't be able to see the needle moving.
MAF's do go bad. AZ likes to sell them because they are expensive and not returnable after installation. Did they give you the codes?
MAF-related DTCs include P0100 through P0103.
Common problem with MAF's is a loose ground. Not as often on that year. The black/white wire from the sensor is grounded to the back of the cylinder head.
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