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Most motor mount kits include the 2 plates that bolt to the engine and 2 frame mounts. The frame section bolts to the 3 holes on each side. The engine mounts bolt to the block with 3 bolts on a SBC or 4 bolts on an LS.
The frame portion is actually early S10 2.8 V6 mounts. Probably because that's what was commonly available when they were first invented.
The frame portion is the same on both sides. The motor adapter plates have a left (drivers) and right (pass side). If you bought mounts that just have the engine plates Rockauto has a variety of brands for the 2.8 mounts for $3-50 each. GM part number 22188284. I'd not waste the money for Genuine GM. The $5 ones work just fine.

There are other style mounts out there, but this simple method has worked OK for 35 years on hundreds of swaps.

350706


350707
 

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The newer Blazers (95+) have a different frame than the S10s and older Blazers. GM built in a 1.5" body lift into the frame and those extra frame pads are a result of keeping the engine where it should be with the body. You don't need to remove them to install new or swap mounts. Just bolt into the 3 holes on each side and it will fit like it is supposed to.
 

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No, as @Harley just explained all 2nd gen Blazers have them and you'll need to use them.
If you're putting a 5.3 into an S10 the notch in the air box for AC will be just a minor detail. If you're using a truck engine you may want to look into the 3 different accessory drives available. F Body and Corvette setups will give you more room to work and you won't have to recess the rad as much.
You'll definitely want go with the Holley 71223026HKR exhaust manifolds. Way better than headers. You'll also need their 302-1 oil pan and 302-15 dip stick. Holley also has their own Camaro based motor mounts.
Contact Current Performance Wiring regarding the wiring harness.
Plan on at least 6 months and $5K.
With tires, wheel, brakes, 4l80E, 8.5 rearend, exhaust, I'm currently at $8K and 1 year into it.
I am a retired GM tech with a 2 post hoist, welders, and a complete $10K professional toolbox full of every wrench you can possibly want.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
where are the 1 inch body lift mounts or whatever at? and what would be the best way to lower this puppy down to a smooth ride height?
 

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I have a bunch of different ones.
My current project is an LQ9 04 Escalade 6.0 engine into a 99 RCSB 2wd. It has a 4l80E out of a 2wd 03 Tahoe HD and a 98 ZR2 8.5 rearend which is the 3.73 G80 axle. Running C5 8.5x17 chrome 5 spoke wheels with new Federal 255/50R17 rubber. Blazer front brakes.
I'm looking into putting a Borgeson Street & Performance Quick Ratio GM Power 12.7:1 Ratio Steering Box on it next. Should be on the road soon since the only thing left is finishing the wiring harness. If I could get 2 days in a row to work on it.
Just spent most of this week doing upkeep on my 98 ZR2 which has a 377 Vortec SBC in it. Needed a couple of brake lines. The 2 longest ones. And a fuel pump. Put in a Delphi I had on hand. Even with the new pump I'm still fighting a cold start issue. Think I need to do a little fuel map tuning in the open loop section. If I pull the CTS connector off it fires right up. I assume that's because the PCM thinks it's real cold and increases the fueling at startup. Or maybe I have a bad sensor? Going to let it sit overnight and see what the resistance is after the engine cools to ambient temp. Kind of doubt it. Never seen one fail like that. They usually just go off the scale at one end.
Also spent a day tinkering with some minor brake light issues.
It was a $500 200K truck I bought with a bad engine and trans. Some of it's age and hard life are showing.
Really not too rusty for the salt belt and being a rust prone ZR2.
 

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I have a bunch of different ones.
My current project is an LQ9 04 Escalade 6.0 engine into a 99 RCSB 2wd. It has a 4l80E out of a 2wd 03 Tahoe HD and a 98 ZR2 8.5 rearend which is the 3.73 G80 axle. Running C5 8.5x17 chrome 5 spoke wheels with new Federal 255/50R17 rubber. Blazer front brakes.
I'm looking into putting a Borgeson Street & Performance Quick Ratio GM Power 12.7:1 Ratio Steering Box on it next. Should be on the road soon since the only thing left is finishing the wiring harness. If I could get 2 days in a row to work on it.
Just spent most of this week doing upkeep on my 98 ZR2 which has a 377 Vortec SBC in it. Needed a couple of brake lines. The 2 longest ones. And a fuel pump. Put in a Delphi I had on hand. Even with the new pump I'm still fighting a cold start issue. Think I need to do a little fuel map tuning in the open loop section. If I pull the CTS connector off it fires right up. I assume that's because the PCM thinks it's real cold and increases the fueling at startup. Or maybe I have a bad sensor? Going to let it sit overnight and see what the resistance is after the engine cools to ambient temp. Kind of doubt it. Never seen one fail like that. They usually just go off the scale at one end.
Also spent a day tinkering with some minor brake light issues.
It was a $500 200K truck I bought with a bad engine and trans. Some of it's age and hard life are showing.
Really not too rusty for the salt belt and being a rust prone ZR2.
I've got a ZR2 Blazer going on the block if you need one...zero rust...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dang no wonder you got so much money in it i’m trying to keep it on a budget. What’s the best tubular a arms and body mount bushings to put on a blazer like mine?
 

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Dang no wonder you got so much money in it i’m trying to keep it on a budget. What’s the best tubular a arms and body mount bushings to put on a blazer like mine?
That is on a budget... 😂 😂
 

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Dang no wonder you got so much money in it i’m trying to keep it on a budget. What’s the best tubular a arms and body mount bushings to put on a blazer like mine?
I paid $800 for the LQ9, but by the time you add the Holley oilpan to clear the crossmember, the exhaust manifolds, and a gasket set. You've doubled that. $250 for the used 4L80E which needed a $250 Holley crossmember. $100 for the rearend and $200 for the custom length driveshaft and larger yoke. Well over $600
for all the pads, calipers, and rotors. Kept the Caddy front drive on the engine, but A/C compressor, mount, idler setup and belt was another $500. Fluids were $200 by the time you buy antifreeze, oil, trans fluid, filters for both, brake fluid, power steering fluid, rear gear lube, etc. Not to mention the cost of materials for all new brake lines, hoses, heater hose, radiator hoses, air intake hoses, couplings, air filter, some vacuum hose. Even that stuff is a buck a foot. You have to buy or build a complete exhaust system. It just keeps adding up.
If you change your mind part way thru on anything it'll cost you. I changed both trans and headers. Still have some parts left over to sell as a result. Need an 03 4L60E 2wd with red fluid? I never believe the miles a seller tells me. I go by how red the fluid is.

I did my first S10 305 in the late 90's. Bought an old Impala wagon for $300 and swapped the engine and trans.
Didn't do anything to the drivetrain, suspension, brakes, body, interior, HVAC, or anything else. Total, including the rusty truck, was probably around a grand. It was a fun toy. Same thing today would be 3 times that just because everything has gone up that much. Hedman headers back then were $100. Before Holley bought the company.
Bought my first new car, a Camaro SS396 when I returned to the world in 68 for under $4k. It had 2 window stickers because it had so many options. Today a comparable 2021 Camaro 2ss is over 11 to 12 times that much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok been working a bit but got a motor and trans what would be the best crossmember for a th 350 that would be budget and durable.
 

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What's a th 350? You talking about the transmission GM used to make until about 40 years ago? They stopped putting them in cars before the first S10 went on the market. Is the engine that old too?
If you're planning a swap with parts that old you need to go on an antique car forum for advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ok nvm i’ll figure it out myself can u help me with a 4 core radiator that’s known to be good/ been proven that will fit in my blazer?
 

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How much hp do plan on making that requires a Kenworth sized radiator?
 
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