I've got a ZR2 Blazer going on the block if you need one...zero rust...I have a bunch of different ones.
My current project is an LQ9 04 Escalade 6.0 engine into a 99 RCSB 2wd. It has a 4l80E out of a 2wd 03 Tahoe HD and a 98 ZR2 8.5 rearend which is the 3.73 G80 axle. Running C5 8.5x17 chrome 5 spoke wheels with new Federal 255/50R17 rubber. Blazer front brakes.
I'm looking into putting a Borgeson Street & Performance Quick Ratio GM Power 12.7:1 Ratio Steering Box on it next. Should be on the road soon since the only thing left is finishing the wiring harness. If I could get 2 days in a row to work on it.
Just spent most of this week doing upkeep on my 98 ZR2 which has a 377 Vortec SBC in it. Needed a couple of brake lines. The 2 longest ones. And a fuel pump. Put in a Delphi I had on hand. Even with the new pump I'm still fighting a cold start issue. Think I need to do a little fuel map tuning in the open loop section. If I pull the CTS connector off it fires right up. I assume that's because the PCM thinks it's real cold and increases the fueling at startup. Or maybe I have a bad sensor? Going to let it sit overnight and see what the resistance is after the engine cools to ambient temp. Kind of doubt it. Never seen one fail like that. They usually just go off the scale at one end.
Also spent a day tinkering with some minor brake light issues.
It was a $500 200K truck I bought with a bad engine and trans. Some of it's age and hard life are showing.
Really not too rusty for the salt belt and being a rust prone ZR2.
I paid $800 for the LQ9, but by the time you add the Holley oilpan to clear the crossmember, the exhaust manifolds, and a gasket set. You've doubled that. $250 for the used 4L80E which needed a $250 Holley crossmember. $100 for the rearend and $200 for the custom length driveshaft and larger yoke. Well over $600Dang no wonder you got so much money in it i’m trying to keep it on a budget. What’s the best tubular a arms and body mount bushings to put on a blazer like mine?