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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all!
Now that I have my truck again, I drive it every day. Since getting it, I’ve noticed a tick in the engine and think it’s a lifter. I posted a short on the tube and I’m gonna link it. Here’s my Engine bay. My valve cover is leaking too, as shown in the linked video, so I was thinking I’d just fire it up when I do the change and adjust the lifter. There’s a detailed video on the tube a guy made, and I figure it’s pretty straight forward to adjust. Just wanted some thoughts from y’all before I spray a little oil lol.

I just put new plugs gapped to .045 and did an oil change too. Was fun working on my truck again. Got some kilmat for the rattle, but would moving my exhaust work too? I have it mounted where the cat/muffler were originally, but have been contemplating moving it to the back or somewhere under the bed. The cab resonates pretty loud sometimes lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh and sorry it’s a 1988 vin E 2.5l 5 speed. I’m pretty sure it’s a lifter, so all I have to do is take the valve cover off, loosen the lifter that is making noise, then tighten it with a 3/4 turn? I replaced the dang valve cover gasket already, but I imagine a felpro is the choice. Anyone use RTV instead or in conjunction with the gasket? I think I used a dot on each corner when I did it 4 years ago, but might not use any this time. Any ideas??
 

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Oh and sorry it’s a 1988 vin E 2.5l 5 speed. I’m pretty sure it’s a lifter, so all I have to do is take the valve cover off, loosen the lifter that is making noise, then tighten it with a 3/4 turn? I replaced the dang valve cover gasket already, but I imagine a felpro is the choice. Anyone use RTV instead or in conjunction with the gasket? I think I used a dot on each corner when I did it 4 years ago, but might not use any this time. Any ideas??
Felpro has ultra leak proof for many apps
Have you adjusted sbc valves before? If not checkk out online and follow those instructions.
 

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Boozebag
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Weird... this engine has a roller cam in it from the factory.
They usually don't wear much. As I remember, you don't adjust the rockers.
You tighten them down on the studs and that's it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Weird... this engine has a roller cam in it from the factory.
They usually don't wear much. As I remember, you don't adjust the rockers.
You tighten them down on the studs and that's it.
If that’s so, could I be something other than the lifters? I’m not too inner engine savvy, I’ve only replaced outer components (belts, alternators, starters, etc.). Could something be loose and rattling from the engine vibration?
 

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If that’s so, could I be something other than the lifters? I’m not too inner engine savvy, I’ve only replaced outer components (belts, alternators, starters, etc.). Could something be loose and rattling from the engine vibration?
Yes, more than a few possibilities exist. Careful listening with mech stethoscope ( or long screwdriver , piece of htr hose,etc ) can isolate the area closer. Damaged/stuck lifter from dirt, etc is possible culprick.
 

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The rule of thumb is, a "tapping" is a lifter, a "knock" is a rod and a "tick" is a piston wrist pin or a rod cap, but usually misdiagnosed as a lifter and vis-versa. And a hard "clacking" noise is the rod cap about to come off.
And this rule is Not etched in Stone. But that's about the basics as to the noise and locations.
 

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The rule of thumb is, a "tapping" is a lifter, a "knock" is a rod and a "tick" is a piston wrist pin or a rod cap, but usually misdiagnosed as a lifter and vis-versa. And a hard "clacking" noise is the rod cap about to come off.
And this rule is Not etched in Stone. But that's about the basics as to the noise and locations.
Ticking is also quite often an exhaust manifold leak.
And the hard clacking - I've never seen a rod cap come off but when the bearings have been beat out of the big end of the rod, it'll knock pretty hard.
Knock Knock...
Who's there?
Rod. Never mind, I'll just come out through the side of the block.
Lifter tics often disappear when they get filled with oil, usually within a few seconds. I've swapped a few sets and have never found problems with the roller or wheel, always the internal mechanism. Exhaust manifold leaks rarely disappear but may get quieter as everything expands and reduces the size of the leak.
It's probably tired and past it's useful life and is telling you to replace it along with all of its buddies. Keep in mind that precious little has changed inside of the lifter since hydraulic lifters were first used....back when 100K miles on an engine was a dream or an unmitigated lie. They're now a wear item.
 

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Exactly, and without hearing the sound for yourself, it's very difficult to give the correct cause, lucky at best.
Listed as an information point so the poster could check and listen in the given probable problem areas.
A good point on the exhaust, but personally, I don't think it taps as a lifter or knocks like a rod. But then again, it'd still be a lucky guess to call it correctly without being present and hearing it.
Y'all have a Happy and Safe Thanksgiving.
 
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