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Discussion Starter #301
Not yet, I'm not ready to run the fuel lines yet, but I might cut off a few feet of tube and try it just to make sure it works this weekend. I have 25ft, and I only need fuel feed and return and I might use some for the trans cooler in the radiator if I have enough left over.
 

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Discussion Starter #302
So, I tried out the tubing straightener with 3/8 and 5/16 NiCopp lines. Seemed to work pretty well.

So, since I don't have a bench, I did this outside on top of my Stanley FatMax rolling tool box. I used a "tight-quarters" Ridgid tubing cutter, and a Husky deburring tool (which I would probably not use again.) As you can see in the pics, the line has a pretty good curve to it.







5/16" worked pretty much as well.



The guy I got the idea from said he went down to 3/16, IIRC...might have been 1/4"

I tried my tubing bender on the 3/8 and it worked well, but on 5/16 it pinched the corners, so I think it is meant for 3/16, 1/4, and 3/8. I'll need to look for one that can do 5/16.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #303
My radiator showed up, and looks pretty good. I was searching posts about radiator mounting (since I read a lot about not rigidly mounting aluminum radiators before I ordered one) and of course NOW I find a lot of posts where it's kind of agreed that all aluminum radiators aren't good for daily driving. I don't think I saw any of these posts when I was reading about radiators prior to ordering! lol :cry:
At least I didn't order. $500 radiator.

Guess I'll hope for the best.

Jay
 

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Boozebag
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Weird, I have bought several alloy radiators. They all seemed to work properly.
What's the drawback?
 

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Old Fart
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I have never had any problems with them either as long as they are mounted properly. I have one in my 57 and had them in 2 Jeeps.
 
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Discussion Starter #307
Yeah, there's a bunch of people talking about problems they've had with aluminum radiators over on LS1Tech right now. I already bought it, and I'm going to do what I can to mount it as good as possible, but I can't say I'm not a little worried. Hopefully I get at least a couple years out of it.

I haven't done much to the truck over the last few weeks, but I've been working on my garage. I've been taking the handicapped ramp out in sections when I have time. I took the first section out and used the wood to build a bench. I bought a new vice, and for the first time in at least 20 years I have a vice mounted to a bench. I can also mount my bench grinder on the bench, as well. lol

This should free up a lot of space in the garage for me to get around the truck. I also made a shelf that will bolt to the unused man door so I can finally use the air conditioner I've had for years. Hoping this will at least let me keep it somewhat comfortable when it's stupid hot out and I can keep progress up.

Hit the junkyard this morning, and got calipers and abutment brackets from a 2000 Camaro. The 3 yards I go to usually only get 94-97 F-bodies. I saw they put a 2000 out yesterday and figured I'd see if they were still there...and they were, surprising since the car was right on the aisle. I had been debating between these and the 4 piston Brembos from the Cadillac ATS. These presented themselves, so I went with these.

I found a guy on eBay that sells brackets and turned down rotors to adapt C5 and C6 calipers to a 1st gen S-10, but he only has a rating in the 97% range. I usually try not to buy from people with less than 99%....but since Sean seems to have gone MIA and Flynbye seems to be less than reputable, I'm debating on taking the chance. He does include bearings and stuff in his kits, so at least I wouldn't have to go grab those. He does sell the turned down rotors separately, and I can make my own brackets I guess.

Anyway, I'm still alive, truck isn't dead.

Jay
 

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Old Fart
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All the ones I have had mounted in the original rubber isolated spots that the original did and no problems. The 2 that I had in my Jeeps were cheap eBay ones and I put 60K on one and about 90K on the other. I sold the higher mileage one to a guy I know and it's 3 years later and he hasn't had a problem yet so I think the people with cracking problems are mounting them solid with no isolation from vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #309
Here's the brakes. The sliders work nice, and the bolts weren't stupid tight. None of them were cross threaded. I grabbed the pads, which didn't look too bad, but I'll replace them anyway, later. I can't believe how light they are. They weigh less than my Neon's calipers, even if you include the abutment brackets.

 

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Discussion Starter #310
Going to mention this in here, too. I started making my adapter brackets for the LS1 swap, and was pricing out Camaro rotors. Rockauto lists them as having a 5x118 bolt pattern, and out trucks are 5x120.65. I searched but didn't see anyone mention if they had to open up the bolt holes.

Do they just fit because the diameter of the suggested Dorman studs is small enough to allow the play, or what? I don't know if stock Camaro studs are like 14mm and since the Dorman's might be 12.5 or something.

Trying to get an idea on sourcing brake rotors and want to make sure I get something that works. I'm planning on using LS1 brakes (not a C5 or C6 hybrid.)

Thanks.

Jay
 

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Old Fart
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Going to mention this in here, too. I started making my adapter brackets for the LS1 swap, and was pricing out Camaro rotors. Rockauto lists them as having a 5x118 bolt pattern, and out trucks are 5x120.65. I searched but didn't see anyone mention if they had to open up the bolt holes.

Do they just fit because the diameter of the suggested Dorman studs is small enough to allow the play, or what? I don't know if stock Camaro studs are like 14mm and since the Dorman's might be 12.5 or something.

Trying to get an idea on sourcing brake rotors and want to make sure I get something that works. I'm planning on using LS1 brakes (not a C5 or C6 hybrid.)

Thanks.

Jay
I bought aftermarket drilled and slotted rotors for mine and the hubs I bought have 1/2 inch studs and fit fine.
 

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time to get cereal
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Going to mention this in here, too. I started making my adapter brackets for the LS1 swap, and was pricing out Camaro rotors. Rockauto lists them as having a 5x118 bolt pattern, and out trucks are 5x120.65. I searched but didn't see anyone mention if they had to open up the bolt holes.
What year Camaro are you looking at? 98-02 is the swap and they do not have 5x118, all "real" Camaros have the same pattern as S10s, G-bodies, etc.
 
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Discussion Starter #313
It was a 2000 I got them off of. I thought they were 5x4.75, but all the Rockauto rotors say 5x118mm. I even though if they used 25mm per inch instead of 25.4mm, like it's supposed to be, but they still come up wrong. Didn't seem right, but wanted to check. Thanks, MBP.
 

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Discussion Starter #314
I ordered some AC Delco Rotors to turn into hubs. The local JY's have been getting a lot of 1st gens in lately (Someone grabbed the grill off the '93/94ish Bravada, damn.) and I was going to grab a set off of one of those. They were $22 for used ones, each. I got new ones for $36ea shipped to my door on Amazon. Decided to go with that, rather than spend hours pulling them off a truck in the yard in 90+ degree heat. Dropped them at a local machine shop today to have them turned down. Guy seemed like he didn't want to do it, but once I explained it several times, he agreed. I am probably paying too much, but oh well. As long as he does it right, I don't care.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #315
I've been thinking about it, and when I go to have engine work done, I don't think I'll take it there. I'll either run it to Mazza's in Clarkston (or Waterford) or Baldwin Auto Machine in Pontiac. It's a much longer drive, but I think I trust them more.
 

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Discussion Starter #316
Got my hubs back from the machine shop yesterday. Probably overpaid, but whatever. To remove the braking surface and turn down the rest, he charged me $160. But at least they're done. I have a brand new set of Belltech drop spindles, and I'm putting together an order for all the bearings and seals, etc. I'll post pics later once I grab the hubs out of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #317
Here they are. Guy was a bit cooler when I went to pick them up, and they seemed to come out right, so whatevs.



I get sick of people constantly asking "When will my car be done," or "Why so much" so I didn't really try to negotiate price. I don't have the stuff to do it, he did. I won't need to do this again, I don't think.

I was thinking of running Raybestos R300 rotors, but before ordering them, I decided to see if they had them to fit an Explorer 8.8. Seems they don't. Bummer. Guess I'll look at some other slotted rotors. I don't care for drilled rotors, but the slotted rotors on my Mazda helped solve my warping problem, so I will go with those, or some variation.
Or maybe I'll just keep looking for a 2wd 8.6" rear.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #319
Any updates?
Not right now. I've been stupid busy at work and I have a daily I'm trying to get straightened out before winter. But I took a week off coming up so I should have some updates soon.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #320
Well, I took vacation time last week with the intention of buttoning up the cab (get rid of bare metal and maybe seal up the holes to keep critters out). That way, I can put the front clip back on and push it out in the driveway if I need space, and hopefully not get hassled. We did get new neighbors next door, and they're probably a bit younger than me so hopefully they'll be cool.

Anyway. I made a trip to the JY to look for Neon parts early in the vacation, which resulted in several trips. I grabbed a trunk lid w/o a wing (which I painted to match my car), and found a '99 R/T in one yard and I grabbed a bunch of stuff off it in 2 trips on 2 days. I also found a 16" spare tire from a '00 Camaro...now I just need another one so I can use it to roll the trunk on after the brake upgrade is done.

Finally, I got the cab off the frame...but I had to cut 3 holes in the floor because the captive nuts broke loose. I didn't have to do the 4th because there was no bolt in it. lol





Then I stripped the frame with a "Cheek Poker" (Vice Grip Garage reference), and sprayed the majority of the area under the cab with Rustoleum Rust Reformer, and it needs to dry 24hrs. I also have some welding I need to do, and I ordered a new set of Prothane body mount bushings, so I hope I can get the body back on the frame by next weekend.





And, finally, because my GF is worried about Police visits about the truck, we wrapped it in a tarp...looks like a Christmas gift I would have wrapped when I was 10. lol

Jay
 
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