S-10 Forum banner

281 - 300 of 328 Posts

·
Old Fart
Joined
·
3,987 Posts
That is the government agency that takes over pensions when a company files bankruptcy. Mine went from $3200 a month at age 62 to $1000 at age 65 because UAL filed bankruptcy.
 

·
Old Fart
Joined
·
3,987 Posts
Why?? because you had a couple bad experiences? I have a good reason not to. like ground....not because of their service, but because they caused a lot of grief for Express when we started that service. I'd stack them up against UPS for service now. Still don't like some of their processes, but that's mostly because they are subcontractors. That would be like saying all baggage handlers are bad because a few got caught launching bags.
Way more than a couple. every ground delivery for the last 5 years or so. Same thing with baggage handlers, the contract ones are the ones usually stealing and damaging stuff.
 

·
B4U Task Force Admin
Joined
·
25,648 Posts
So...are you saying they were late, damaged, not delivered, or didn't ring/knock. All ground deliveries?
 

·
Old Fart
Joined
·
3,987 Posts
So...are you saying they were late, damaged, not delivered, or didn't ring/knock. All ground deliveries?
Yes, I never had any problems with air.
 

·
B4U Task Force Admin
Joined
·
25,648 Posts
Well...I wouldn't/haven't been that patient. I've made phone calls asking for a manager at that location, but I've found a face to face is more effective. I've noticed a change after that. Just have to make the time to do it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: goes2fast

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Discussion Starter #286
Well, I finally got the lower passenger side done. I welded up a hole I had punched for plug welding (thinking it was in the wrong spot) and then when I realized I was wrong, I tried to punch it again and popped a tendon in my wrist. Yay.
So, progress may slow down, which sucks because the weather is great and the junkyards I go to opened back up.

First off, I had to remove the hinge again. I really didn't want to do it. But this time I drilled 2 1/8" holes and used them as locators instead of making a new jig like when I did the other side.



I made a new a-pillar lower piece again, but this time I cut it and re welded it slightly narrower so it fit in the new rocker panel.



Welded up the inner rocker panel (which I made just like the other side (including pressing it for 4 slots and having to bang one of them back flat. Sigh) I tried UPol copper weld through primer this time. Less spatter than the zinc 3M I used last time. Every place I won't be able to get to go covered. And when it's all done, I'm coating the insides with Eastwood Internal Frame Coating.



Inner kick panel welded to the floor and kick panel.



Close up --- anyone else see a Lego guy in this? lol



Welded the new lower inner a-pillar support to the outer rocker, then added a backer to make it easier to weld.



Outer rocker welded back on



I hung the door back on (after injuring myself, which was dumb)



The back of the rocker doesn't fit amazingly, so I'm going to cut a couple of slits and weld it into the right shape. It's rounder and slightly fatter than the factory piece. This side went way better than the other side.

I also started making a template to smooth the firewall,



I'd like to get it bead rolled or pressed (I may try making a jig with my router and pressing a shape with my 20 ton press. It's only like 18-20ga, so it should press pretty easy. But I was waiting until my ICT Billet coil relocation brackets came (which they did today) so I can work around the shape of the coils. PCM will be going inside the truck (and I got the GM bracket from a later S-10 to use for that.

Might drag the GF's nephew with me to the junkyard this week. lol. He can help me get heavier stuff. lol
There's an Extreme 2002 or 2003 Blazer there currently. The RPO codes don't say it has the ZQ8 suspension, but I thought all the Extreme's did.

Jay
 

·
B4U Task Force Admin
Joined
·
25,648 Posts
Blazers did not have the ZQ8 option.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Discussion Starter #288
Oh, besides the Extreme Blazer, they have this:

340440


I kinda want the bed. lol
 

·
Old Fart
Joined
·
3,987 Posts
Good for a mobile work situation but heavy and ugly for a daily driver.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Discussion Starter #291
Good for a mobile work situation but heavy and ugly for a daily driver.
6.0L V8 makes up for it. lol I'm not going to pull it or anything, Flying Sparks Garage has a slammed utility bed C10
which was kind of where the idea came from. At least I think I saw it on FSG.

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,904 Posts
Really? Is there an equivalent RPO code for them, or was it like included with the Extreme package?
Or were they not factory "lowered?"

Jay
RPO for the Xtreme Blazers is Z87.

Front springs and sway bar will swap over, but everything else is Blazer specific. They also don't have the fast ratio steering box.

The body work is coming together great, Jay. You're definitely flying through it now. Keep up the good work.
 

·
B4U Task Force Admin
Joined
·
25,648 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Discussion Starter #294
Stopped by the JY today. The blue utility bed truck is missing it's roof now, but the utility bed is still there.
I grabbed the headlight switch/foglight switch harnesses off of the yellow Extreme blazer.
I also got a 2003 Yukon BCM out of a truck with an interesting fix for a broken window.

Untitled by Jay McGraw, on Flickr

I'm hoping to use this to control lighting, mostly. I want the truck to shut off the dome lights if I leave the door open and possibly control RAP.

Untitled by Jay McGraw, on Flickr

I grabbed a pigtail from a 2002 Yukon for the ECM as well as the OBD2 plug so I can make a bench program harness for the ECM.

Untitled by Jay McGraw, on Flickr

And the rest is for the next post.

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Discussion Starter #295
I've been trying to choose a radiator/fan combo. We're going back to work (limited hours) on Monday, so this was one of my last chances to get to the yard.

I figured I could at least pick up a shroud and fan setup, that I could at least use for mock up.

@Harley has mentioned the Cavalier radiator he plans to use, and I looked at a bunch of other options commonly used for LS swaps, and all the ones I kept finding were only 1" core. I couldn't find a new 4.3HD radiator anywhere that had more than a 1" core either (until recently.) I had originally hoped to find something with both inlet and outlet on the passenger side, so I didn't have to run a radiator hose across the front of the engine. But after looking at some pics of swapped S-10's with truck accessories, it looks like I'll have a short hose in front of the motor either way.

While looking for fan options, I found a post on here about "how to wire Intrepid fans..." and read this:

I know this is an old thread, but thought I'd throw in my 2¢. Chrysler has 2 different fan assemblies they used. If it has 5 blades and no relays on the shroud, it is the standard fan, which works fine. If it has 6 blades and the 2 relays mounted on the shroud it is the fan used on the 3.5 in the 300 and with the HD or SD cooling options. I have the 6 bladed one and it is setup by Chrysler so that if the computer orders lo speed, both fans are wired in series and run on low. They do this by running the 12 volts through 1 fan then the other. Both fans are grounded and the dark green wire is 12v. If the PCM requests hi speed. Power is supplied to the yellow wire in addition to the green. The hi speed relay switches from 87A grounded to 87 12 volts. The fans are now running in parallel. Each is getting it's own 12v feed. result is both fans running on high.
Hooking it up in an S10 is as easy or as complicated as you want to make it. Ground both blacks. Green turns on both fans on low. Hi is turned on by adding power to the yellow and the green.
I have mine setup with separate temp sensors for lo and hi and a feed from a trinary switch on the A/C high pressure line. It took 5 additional relays.

The LHS service manual is available as a pdf download here: http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/manuals/02lhe/02lhe.pdf
You really only need pages 692 and 693 for the fan wiring diagrams.
I hadn't realized there were different "Intrepid" fans, until I read this...and I happened to find one at the yard today:

Untitled by Jay McGraw, on Flickr

Untitled by Jay McGraw, on Flickr

From what I've read, it works similar to the 3 relay setup for the LS1 fans. but already has the relays in place.

The body of the shroud (minus the mounting tabs) is 26.5" wide, and 15.3" high. It has the 6 blade fans, and the relays on the shroud. It's about 3.5-3.75" deep.

Here's the part number sticker that was on it.

by Jay McGraw, on Flickr

It was mounted to the radiator with 4 10mm bolts, which I think will make it easy to figuring out mounting in the S10.
Most likely I will move the radiator into the core support to make more room.

It came out of a 2001 300M.

That brings us to radiator choices. Most of what I've read says the 4.3HD radiator works fine (and the few people who say it doesn't are either building race trucks, likely didn't seal the shroud properly, or didn't use a shroud or appropriate fans. At least that's my guess.

But when I was searching, all the radiators I found (4.3HD and/or 84-89 Corvette) still only had 1" cores. And I don't plan on racing it hardly ever. It will probably make a trip or two to the track just for timeslips, but I literally haven't been drag racing in over 20 years. I found acouple of rads with 1.25" cores, but they had smaller overall core sizes. And I hate to spend $300-500 for a radiator that might be overkill for my application.

Then I checked out Mishimoto...and they have a 4.3 S-10 radiator with 1 5/16 cores. And it's under $200. So, I may go that way.

Chevrolet S10 / GMC S15, Sonoma 4.3L Replacement Radiator, 1988-1994

The core size almost perfectly matches the size of the fan shroud. If I don't find a better option in the next few days, I'll probably pull the trigger.

All the stuff at the Yard was $60.

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Discussion Starter #296
Rockauto has an AC Delco radiator, with 1.375 cores and a lifetime warranty, but it appears to have both the engine oil cooler and trans cooler. Not sure I want that, but I'm still looking. The other brands, for the same application have smaller cores.

Jay
 

·
Old Fart
Joined
·
3,987 Posts
Rockauto has an AC Delco radiator, with 1.375 cores and a lifetime warranty, but it appears to have both the engine oil cooler and trans cooler. Not sure I want that, but I'm still looking. The other brands, for the same application have smaller cores.

Jay
I scored one like that, the 4.3 HD on eBay for around $79 a couple of years ago. the original was 1-inch core and the eBay cheapie was about the same as the one you are talking about and it dropped the temp10 to15 degrees.
 

·
Boozebag
Joined
·
9,336 Posts
Suggestion:
If you look on Ebay at S10 V8 radiator as a search, you'll find a TON of selections. All way under $200. All aluminum too.
I have bought several for many applications. They are usually a bolt in and the inlet/outlet is in the correct configuration.
They sell 3 core and 4 core in some cases.
They also look a lot better than the Corvette POS with plastic tanks - I bought one of those.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
495 Posts
Discussion Starter #299
So, I think I mentioned it, but while putting the rocker on the truck I messed up my wrist. It's still screwed up, but my stubborn a** kept trying to use it (since I'm back to work and want to get stuff done on my own stuff, as well).

I haven't really done much to the truck, but I have built a few tools.

I built a bench harness, and picked up a bluetooth dongle so I can use LSDroid to turn off VATS and turn on fan controls, and stuff. A friend offered to use their HP Tuners to tune it, but there might be a time delay between me getting the truck running and her being able to tune it, plus we're about 60 miles apart.

I used an aluminum project box from Amazon. Some banana plugs, a set of XT60 plugs, and some harness parts from the JY. I also used switches from Amazon.

I used the XT60 plugs on the power harness so I can switch between the banana plugs (for use with my 30A power supply) or big alligator clips so I could hook it to a battery.

One switch is main power (red) and ignition is blue.





OBD2 is mounted to the end of the box, and the connections were all soldered and wrapped in Tesa Interior harness tape.

The other thing I built was a tubing straightener, for my fuel (and possibly brake lines).

I looked at a lot of options, and none seemed like they were worth $100+.
I watched several YouTube videos, and found a user named "asquaregarden"
and I really liked his idea. Instead of being able to clamp a straightener in the vice, he used aluminum stock to make new vice jaws with wheels mounted to it.
Instead of using a spring loaded tensioner like on the common ones I found, this just uses the vice. I think I have around $50 in it.

I picked up some 3/4" x 1" x 18" 6061 Aluminum for around $25 shipped from Onlinemetals.com. The wheels came from Amazon.

Amazon.com: CNBTR 4Pieces 6x30x13mm Plastic Coated Sealed Bearings Steel 606ZZ Deep U Groove Guide Pulley Rail Ball Rolling Bearing Wheel Orange: Home Improvement

The aluminum jaws are 6" long, with 4 holes in the 3/4" thickness, spaced 1 3/8" apart. The first mounting hole started 5/8" from the end. The holes were drilled with a #9 bit, and tapped to M6x1.0. I used M6x30mm screws and M6 nuts for the assembly. The holes for mounting to the vice were centered (which might not have been the best idea, but it worked. When I drilled the recesses for the screw heads, I hit one of the threaded holes that the wheels bolt through. All in all, it seems like it should work pretty well. The guy I got the idea from didn't really mention measurements in his video so I figured I'd post what seemed to work for me.







You have to make sure all the wheels are oriented the same, one side was deeper than the other. when they are oriented correctly, the nuts keep the wheel doesn't touch the aluminum.



I didn't have a drill press, so I used this drill guide to keep the holes vertical.

The finished product:



I plan to buy a better vice, so this will probably become my permanent tubing straightener.

Also, I still haven't chosen a radiator. lol

Jay
 
281 - 300 of 328 Posts
Top