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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tomorrow I’ll drop the oil pan and change that seal, any tips on changing rear main? Gotta loosen the rear main caps right?
 

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Two tones of terror
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What a pain. I've never worked on one of those but if it's a 2 piece like the sbc yeah remove rear main cap, a dab of RTV between ends of seal, and between main cap halves. Offset seal 3/8" from main cap parting line and MAKE SURE both halves of the seal are facing the correct way, easy to mix up.

Were you planning on pulling engine to do all the seals? Can the oil pain not be dropped with it still in the truck?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The front diff is in the way only way I saw oil pan coming out was pull the old 2.8, and thanks on those seal tips, never done one. Yup it’s a 2 piece seal, do I only loosen the rear cap?
 

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Two tones of terror
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Yes the rear cap contains the rear main. Might as well do the front too and oil pan gasket etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yea already got the new oil pan gasket also, hmm didn’t think about front seal, what all needs to come off to access that? On a time crunch unfortunately have to finish it up by tomorrow night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
got the new seal in, followed alldatas procedure so hopefully no more leaks, apparently there’s 2 oil pan gaskets and I got the wrong one, so had to pause everything to drive 2 hours for the gasket. Hopefully I get atleast motor and transmission back in by end of day.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Didn’t finish like I wanted due to having to drive and waste valuable time for that oil pan gasket. Anyways got motor sealed up at all known 2.8 leak points, cam cover in back, oil filter adapter, oil dipstick tube, fuel pump, and intake gasket and valve covers were just redone. I’ll redo front cover later, that’s easily accessible. Motor back in, transmission separated from transfer case and clutch on and aligned.
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Did you reseal the distributor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
After a high rpm run today noticed oil coming from somewhere on driver side valve cover or even coming out of oil cap, it sprayed brake master and surrounding area
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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After a high rpm run today noticed oil coming from somewhere on driver side valve cover or even coming out of oil cap, it sprayed brake master and surrounding area
I am the defacto expert on 2.8 oil leaks! So here goes.

1. The main culprit is the distributor. The o-ring dries up and turns hard. Then it leaks. Pull it and replace it. Get a 350 distributor gasket that sits underneath here it mounts to the motor. About .25. It will give you extra protection should it fail again (hint. it will). This is where I find 99% of all 2.8 leaks at the back of the engine.

2. Oil filter adapter. Probably not unless you removed it when you had it out. And it will be more toward the front.

3. Valve cover gaskets. They're tricky. Everyone always thinks more RTV is better. It's not. I use rubber gaskets (I don't think they even make cork ones anymore), and put a dab where the intake invades the corner of the head on either side of the gasket. That's it. Otherwise install dry. Zero leaks!

4. Lifter valley Often blamed for #1. Seen this very few times. In fact, I don't know that I have personally experienced it.

$2 and donuts it's the distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
here’s where it’s spraying and yes it’s for sure oil not power steering. Also as stated above distributor was done already with the 305 paper gasket and new oring shortly before intake and valve covers were pulled. Rear of motor bone dry, this is all drivers side. And yes they still sell corks, as it has brand new cork vc gaskets. I sat there and revved for a while and didn’t see anything obvious. Only happens under load high rpm. I’m thinking vc
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