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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
just pulled my transmission in my 2003 4.3 2wd for the second time trying to chase down a clutch chatter. i opened it up to find oil below my crankshaft and oil on my throw out bearing (it was not here the first time i was searching for the clutch chatter).

i’ve already changed my rear main seal, so does this mean i need a new oil pan gasket? what is the process for changing one of these?
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Moved to 262/4.3.
 

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To replace the oil pan gasket the GM factory service manual for a 2wd S-10 states. 1. Disconnect battery 2. Remove engine (see section on engine removal) 3. Remove gasket.
It simply can't be done in the truck because of the cross member.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
To replace the oil pan gasket the GM factory service manual for a 2wd S-10 states. 1. Disconnect battery 2. Remove engine (see section on engine removal) 3. Remove gasket.
It simply can't be done in the truck because of the cross member.
And for this reason I think I will be coating it in RTV and pretending I didnt see it
 

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How did you change the rear main seal w/o dropping the pan? That's likely where the leak is. You didn't by chance damage the rear of the pan gasket and think RTV would repair the silicone seal on the back of the pan gasket. RTV usually doesn't work on silicone gaskets very well. In fact the instructions with a pan gasket specifically state to not put it on anywhere except a small amount in the 4 corners to seal where the gasket makes the transition onto the front cover and rear seal retainer.
From Fel-Pros website:
In the case of most Fel-Pro® oil pan gaskets, they are to be installed dry. When installing PermaDryPlus® and PermaDry® gaskets, they must be installed clean and dry. RTV is only necessary at the “corners” or where there may be a stepped area such as an Rear Main Bearing retainer to block joint. Keep the following in mind:

  • Adhesives should only be used on “paper type” or cork/rubber type gaskets.
  • No adhesive will stick to silicone.
  • Molded silicone gaskets must be installed dry.
343585
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How did you change the rear main seal w/o dropping the pan? That's likely where the leak is. You didn't by chance damage the rear of the pan gasket and think RTV would repair the silicone seal on the back of the pan gasket. RTV usually doesn't work on silicone gaskets very well. In fact the instructions with a pan gasket specifically state to not put it on anywhere except a small amount in the 4 corners to seal where the gasket makes the transition onto the front cover and rear seal retainer.
From Fel-Pros website:


View attachment 343585
This is the rear main seal i replaced. There are 3 or 4 notches around it where it can be popped out with a pick or a screwdriver and then a new one can be pressed in without moving the oil pan. It doesn't seem to be leaking around the new rear main seal. It's possible that I damaged the oil pan gasket while separating the bell housing from the motor, though. i had to use quite a lot of force because the aligning pins were stuck inside the bell housing.
 
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