when i put subs into people rides i tell them to break then slower. I feel the slower you break them in the longer they will last you. i tell ever one take a 4 weeks to slowly break them in. but man it is up to you on how you want to break them in
EcKo:thumbup: :drinkhaha :idea:scary:
I noticed that my L7's sounded better after they had about 10 hours of play on them. I never "break" any of my subs in like everyone else said though. I had over 800wrms to each of my 12" L7's and I pushed them as hard as they would go for about the first 2 hours i had them and i never had any problems with them.
i was thinking about buying 2 of them, i still am..the only thing i dont' like about them is they don't have a subsonic filter on them. I'm leaning towards two of the kx1200.1's strapped together right now, or maybe 2 concept d2400's. Did you buy your amp online or from a dealer?
why would you actually WANT a subsonic filter? You won't be-able to drop as low. I purchase the amp ONLINE from a guy I purchased my old MTX Thunder 1000 D from. I paid $370 SHIPPED for the 1000 D and used it for 8 months, then sold it for $340! You can't be that.
I got the 8100 D for $375 SHIPPED and this puppy goes for AT LEAST $640 EVERYWHERE in stores/shops/Crutchfield.
hey layinsonomaframe, i noticed you joined termpro too. you'll get all the information on audio you will ever need on there. they are DD freaks over there and will help you out with those bad boys you bought. what kinda enclosure are you gonna put them?
as for the subsonic filter, they are just basically an insurance feature if you are running a ported box. you won't be able to drop as low but the frequencies that are being cut out are pretty much inaudible anyways. and plus, not that much music plays THAT low....unless you consider bass mekanik CDs music
goto termpro.com (its' the DB Drag Forums) and look for Ceed or Ceed19....He's a really great guy to deal with. I purchased my old Thunder 1000 D as well as my new 8100 D from him with 0 problems. He'll even ship COD.:thumbup:
I'm new to PRO car audio but I have a degree in electronics. If you're putting out power on a 15 Hz signal, that's going to take away from the power available for the sound you can actually hear. Right? Plus there's the excursion problem that every body else mentioned. If you put too low a frequency into a box that's not designed for it the excursion will kill your speaker because you loose the spring action that occurs when you try to push air out a small hole very fast. If it tries to push it too slow or the hole is too big you loose the spring action.
I read something on a site where they tested a 600W rms sub and it's power handling was at or above the rated power all the way down to the tuned freq. of the ported box. Drop 10 Hz below that and that same speaker would only take 19 watts!
About the break in period thing. Most above average companies will test a sub before it leaves their facility. Im not saying they blast it with everything they've got, but it has most likley already been played to make sure its ok.
Overall I think the break in period is a myth. True the sound a woofer makes will change as it ages, but Ive never ever taken it easy on any sub ive ever owned and I have also never blown a sub either. Dont worry about a retarded break in period because their really isnt anything in a motor assembly that needs breaking in.
There arent any gaskets inside a sub that need sealing, no coolant running around to keep hot parts from thermal meltdown. Its all aircooled and theres like one moving part in a sub, the voice coil assembly, and thats all magnetized.
and for the smartasses out there, i know the cone and surround all move, those things dont count.:thumbup:
break in period?? What break in period.
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