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Discussion Starter #1
Do any of the members have any experience with the JTR/Stealth Driveline kits available for the extended cab S-10'S? I have an 03 S-10 4.3 ZQ8 that has 49k and has some rear wheel hop at 36-42 mph. I have changed tire, wheels, balance, tire pressure, etc all to no avail. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.:(
 

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Starting from scratch...
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I bought the standard cab kit, (same thing with the exception of the middle spacer, since the Xcabs have the two-piece driveshaft). I think it was well worth it, but I had a different issue than you, in that I was looking to get rid of vibration from the out-of-whack pinion angle. Worked great for getting rid of most of the vibes, but didn't really improve wheel-hop, especially with the 3" blocks. Sounds like a set of Cal-Tracs may be more up your alley.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
jagsthatrun.comWorked great for getting rid of most of the vibes, but didn't really improve wheel-hop, especially with the 3" blocks. Sounds like a set of Cal-Tracs may be more up your alley.

Thanks for the reply. I guess I should have used the term "vibration" instead of wheel hop. I get the vibration between 36 and 42 mph. Some have said it needs new u-joints, but they seem OK to me.
 

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I put the kit with 3 degree shims in my 02 X extended cab 4.3. It took alot of vibration out. They suggested the 3 degree angle shims for the ZQ8 extended cabs. All extended cabs need the pinion angle corrected I'm told. Highly recommended.
 

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FREAKS
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LOL i just order the kit today...im glad that everyone gave this good reviews cause i didnt see the thread before...i talked to the orders guy and he told me becuase i had the xtreme plus the 2/3 drop the best he could do is the 4 degree shim he also said that he would advise me to get the axle set back plates said it was only 17 more buks and i said go ahead cause right now id try anything, my drive shaft shakes like a bitch when ever im acclerating...for those that have the alignment kit and the set back plates, how hard are they to install??? do they come with instructions??? and any advice!
 

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Boards don't hit back
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I installed the extended cab driveshaft alignment kit with 4 degree shims when I lowered my truck 4/3 (spindles,coils,leaf springs) and I am very happy with the kit. I have no problems at all going on 3 years. The kit comes with instructions and it is pretty easy to install.
 

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s-series #2?
2004 Blazer ZR2 w/ nv3500, 5.3 LM4 swap
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LOL i just order the kit today...im glad that everyone gave this good reviews cause i didnt see the thread before...i talked to the orders guy and he told me becuase i had the xtreme plus the 2/3 drop the best he could do is the 4 degree shim he also said that he would advise me to get the axle set back plates said it was only 17 more buks and i said go ahead cause right now id try anything, my drive shaft shakes like a bitch when ever im acclerating...for those that have the alignment kit and the set back plates, how hard are they to install??? do they come with instructions??? and any advice!
you really should measure youself what angle you need to correct it..
i have a photo of the instructions for the setback plates in my photobucket... id link it but im blocked from there at work so you gotta dig on your own
oh, and its real easy
 

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Unique-Intentions
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this will probably be a dump question but...i got the alignment kit for my extended cab 03. i've got 3 inch drop blocks (flat, not angled) to put on the back of the truck. how are the shims supposed to be connected to the blocks. i know there was bolts that came with the kit. do i have to drill the knob off the blocks. if i do that the bolt diameter seems to small.
 

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s-series #2?
2004 Blazer ZR2 w/ nv3500, 5.3 LM4 swap
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this will probably be a dump question but...i got the alignment kit for my extended cab 03. i've got 3 inch drop blocks (flat, not angled) to put on the back of the truck. how are the shims supposed to be connected to the blocks. i know there was bolts that came with the kit. do i have to drill the knob off the blocks. if i do that the bolt diameter seems to small.
not sure exactly if this is wah ur asking, but i have a shime placed on top of mt block, with the pin going through the shim, and holdingthe axle placed.
 

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Unique-Intentions
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is it the pin thats on the block or is it the pin that comes with the kit. when i put the shim on the block the pin that is on the block isn't tall enough to hold the axle in place. are the pins in the blocks suppose to be removable.
 

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I've just ordered the set up with 4 degrees cause I'm lowered 3". I will let you know if it makes a difference. Hopefully shipping is fast cause I'm in California. I wont be using the rear shims cause the block I installed were tapered. If I still have a problem I will use the shims.
 

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this will probably be a dump question but...i got the alignment kit for my extended cab 03. i've got 3 inch drop blocks (flat, not angled) to put on the back of the truck. how are the shims supposed to be connected to the blocks. i know there was bolts that came with the kit. do i have to drill the knob off the blocks. if i do that the bolt diameter seems to small.
Are you using JTR's drop blocks? I would not use the angled shims on top of any drop block other than the JTR blocks. Their blocks have a threaded hole on top to which you bolt the shim, making them work like a single piece. If you want to use someone else's blocks, get one-piece angled blocks. Check out the pictures and descriptions of the angled shims and drop blocks on the JTR website; expains it well.

Thanks for the reply. I guess I should have used the term "vibration" instead of wheel hop. I get the vibration between 36 and 42 mph. Some have said it needs new u-joints, but they seem OK to me.
My '03 Sonoma 4.3 auto ZQ8 had a terrible driveline vibration above about 80 mph; worst under heavy throttle, and had it from new. It also would "clunk" when I accelerated from a stop at the end of freeway off ramps. I recently installed the JTR kit and I lubed the driveline. Now it's as smooth as silk right up to the 97 mph ignition cutoff.

The JTR kit was easy to install, fit exactly as described, and the 3 degree shim they recommended got the pinion angle perfect. Worst part was wrestling with the rear gas shocks to get the spring packs bolted back together (gas shocks have a little constant push to them). I'm thinking about lowering the truck a little more (another 1/1.5) and I will absolutely use the JTR lowering blocks and switch to their 4 degree blocks. JTR sells well designed, overbuilt, first rate products.

About lubing the driveline: this is so important and too often neglected. On the late model extended cab trucks there are three places on the driveline that should be lubed every 3000 miles. The first is the slip joint on the stub shaft at the front end of the rear shaft. It has a zerk; can't miss it. The other two are what look like pairs of universal joints at each end of the rear shaft. These are actually double cardon constant velocity joints and there is a ball and socket joint BETWEEN the two u-joints in each pair. This is lubed with a needle attachment on the grease gun and the joint has a grease port that looks like the valve on a football or basketball. You can buy a needle adapter for your grease gun at the local auto parts store.

With the front wheels blocked, the rear axle up on jack stands, parking brake off, and the transmission in neutral, rotate the driveshaft by hand until you see the grease port in between the two u-joints. Stick the needle in the port and pump grease until you see a little squeezing out between the two u-joints. Don't over do it or you'll just have a bunch of grease thrown all over the bottom of your truck. This alone will cure many vibrations. Add the JTR kit and you'll really be happy.

Note, due to these double cardon joints, these drivelines are super expensive to replace or rebuild. The most common failure is due to lack of lubrication. While under warranty, I had relied on the dealer to lube everything during regular oil and lube services; big mistake........ When I finally got under the truck to have a look myself, the driveline as well as most of the 11 grease points on the front suspension were practically bone dry. Lubing everything up has made it like a new truck; even better than new. I just hope there wasn't a lot of damage done in that first 25k miles.

Good luck to all and hope this helps,

James
 

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s-series #2?
2004 Blazer ZR2 w/ nv3500, 5.3 LM4 swap
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i have 3" angled blocks, now should i use teh 4 degree shims that im getting from JTR or note and if not should i get teh JTR blocks and add teh shims...kinda lost on what to do...and family man do you have any pics of what the grease points look like i never really noticed them...
you should measure your pinion angle and figure it out yourself... without seeing the truck, we cant really tell
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f12/pinion-angle-measuring-points-on-an-ext-cab-184873/
 

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I also ordered the axle set back plates so I should be good as gold. The guy is real local so I should have em by Thursday and installed. I will let you know the results.
 

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I spoke with the guy from JTR and he said to try it with just the angled blocks and then if I'm still having trouble use the shims. I think their is enough angle on the block to work well with the rest of the kit.
 

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i have 3" angled blocks, now should i use teh 4 degree shims that im getting from JTR or note and if not should i get teh JTR blocks and add teh shims...kinda lost on what to do...and family man do you have any pics of what the grease points look like i never really noticed them...
If that 3" block is a Belltech, it will have a 2 degree angle, which really isn't enough for a 3" drop with the JTR kit, even without any other drop (like ZQ8 leafs or other drop leafs). You could try it and see how bad your pinion angle remains, but it will likely do better with more angle. If you can find access to a milling machine, you could machine the tops of the blocks to a steeper angle. If you are adding a three inch drop on top of ZQ8, you'll want at least 4 degrees maybe more.

Grease point pics: >>search "lube driveshaft">> result:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f13/how-to-lube-your-cardan-joint-116729/

Not the best pictures, but should give you the idea.

Good luck,

James
 

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s-series #2?
2004 Blazer ZR2 w/ nv3500, 5.3 LM4 swap
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If that 3" block is a Belltech, it will have a 2 degree angle, which really isn't enough for a 3" drop with the JTR kit, even without any other drop (like ZQ8 leafs or other drop leafs). You could try it and see how bad your pinion angle remains, but it will likely do better with more angle.
how can you tell?
 
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