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Also A Grumpy Site User
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Discussion Starter #41
that's the next step, i just finally got the misfire in 5 again, so it wasn't the plug wire. since the bracket that holds the coil will come off in the process of getting down to the fpr, i'll get it here and just do them both, I haven't done the research for what is a good number at that valve or what isn't yet, the big fear is that head gasket seeping into #5... fingers crossed hahaha
 

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Also A Grumpy Site User
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2,108 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Uh, so... I haven't even gotten to fuel,
it's getting warm, and if I shut it off, and come back to start it within 1/2 hour or so, it's at the (formerly) red block, and gets the fan spinning and cools off some...
coolant overflow container is still full, a bit too full from the gasket change, it's at full hot when it's cold. anyways, I just put the last quarter of a gallon of antifreeze in the radiator directly. the shop had done it when they had it after the gasket job too... and he said he wonders if the head gasket isn't leaking, and once it burns off that misfire stops, and is giving the cyl 5 weak compression.

i have not sent it out for him to test that, but you guys think that sounds plausible, because, it sounds pretty plausible to me.
 

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Follow these instructions. Turn the truck off. Disconnect the plug wires and coil wire from the distributor cap. Remove the distributor cap. Rotate the engine so that the rotor points at the "6" on the perimeter of the distributor. Remove the 10 mm head bolt that holds down the distributor. Lift out the distributor from the engine. Examine every single tooth of the drive gear at the bottom of distributor. The teeth should all have the same thickness at their maximum radius. I suspect that you're going to find some of the teeth are knife-edged or nearly so. If that's the case, you will want to replace that cam driven gear. After replacing the gear, reverse these steps and see how the truck runs.
 
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