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Lucky
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I'm not sayin at all that the big three is something you shouldn't do. But depending on the system set-up a cap would work just as good.
 

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Mine Sweeper!
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yes you can use 1/0 gauge wire. that is what i have. when i did the write up, i only had it upgraded to 4awg wire. stock wire size is 8awg.

the big three is 1) battery negative to ground (use the frame if possible) 2) alternator power to battery positive 3) engine block to battery negative OR common ground from #1
 

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Go with a high output alternator and be done with it. And upgrade the wires of course.

But to answer the original question, sounds like a good deal to me.
 

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SHE GETS MAD IF U DONT
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Discussion Starter #26
how many amp altonator would you suggest 100 or 140?
and why would I have to ground the negitive twice If I didnt use the engine for a ground?
 

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how many amp altonator would you suggest 100 or 140?
and why would I have to ground the negitive twice If I didnt use the engine for a ground?

You want to check the amps at a certain RPM.

If you think you will be competing and sitting in the lanes, you want to buy an alt that has good output at idle speed. If not, this spec becomes less important.
 

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Mine Sweeper!
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how many amp altonator would you suggest 100 or 140?
and why would I have to ground the negitive twice If I didnt use the engine for a ground?
stock alternator is 105 amp at speed


you have to ground twice because the engine block is not a ground on it's own. the engine needs grounded so it doesn't introduce noise into the system.
 

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SHE GETS MAD IF U DONT
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Discussion Starter #30
I dont know all that specs and stuff but could I do a combo of all three and buy the big 140 amp alt, do the big three, and install a cap?
 

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I dont know all that specs and stuff but could I do a combo of all three and buy the big 140 amp alt, do the big three, and install a cap?
The high output alt and the big 3 will give you the best results of the 3 choices.....you can throw the cap in the mix after doing the big 3 and HO alt, but you proly wouldnt notice it was there. IMO
 

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SHE GETS MAD IF U DONT
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Discussion Starter #33
yeah but I think my stock alt is 70 amp(its a 350'd truck) so i should double it and go with the 140 amp and i dont know the specs at idle rating
 

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Lucky
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399 Posts
so the BIG 3 is just a cheaper way so dont have to buy a cap? So really the BIG 3 and cap would be the best thing for your system?
 

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SHE GETS MAD IF U DONT
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Discussion Starter #36
All a cap does is hold energy so when the power drops it uses some of the stored power to keep it at a steady rate, what they are sayin is with a big alt and the wiring upgrade it should provide more than enough power to run a good sized system.
 

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Mine Sweeper!
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so the BIG 3 is just a cheaper way so dont have to buy a cap? So really the BIG 3 and cap would be the best thing for your system?
no. if you're having dimming issues, a capacitor will only aggravate the condition.

really quick facts about caps:
- they lower the overall voltage of the vehicle's electrical system a little
- once discharged, they must be recharged before your amplifier will see any significant voltage again
- they will discharge quickly on continuous bass lines, or several bass notes right after each other
- they, like any other electrical piece, will breakdown and become less efficient with time which will only make the electrical system less efficient more quickly


if you've got electrical issues and dimming from a system here is the roadmap for fixing the problem:
1) upgrade the big three to the largest wire you can (at least 4 awg). if that doesn't fix the problem it will surely help and it is a requirement before doing a high output alternator anyways
2) buy a deep cycle battery (which still only pushes 12v so it won't really completely solve the problem, but it will help)
3) buy a high output alternator. this is the absolute fix. a large alternator can push more current than a daily system could ever draw so there will never be issues again. a 140 amp alternator should power a moderately efficient 1000w amplifier perfectly fine at idle, but they do make single alternators that push 350 amps or more if you should ever need one.


you can do number 3 before number 2. people usually opt for number 2 before 3 because it is mostly cheaper, but number 2 is just a bandaid and number 3 is the complete fix. but upgrading the big three may fix the whole problem and you can stop there if you want.

upgrading the big three reduces current resistance in your vehicle's electrical system thus allowing the current to flow throughout more efficiently and power an amp better. adding a capacitor will hinder the current just before the amp because it is an electrical device that introduces resistance and lowers the voltage. upgrading the big three and adding a capacitor practically negate each other.


if you really want the whole story on capacitors, then read this:
http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/showthread.php?t=17970
 

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i will be doing a HUGE! write up on all this stuff once i get everything stripped out of my truck.

but yea on a daily system BIG 3 will help, and a bigger alt will help. if you have more then a daily ( like me) it helps, but more batteries is the only way to go.
 

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SHE GETS MAD IF U DONT
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Discussion Starter #39
you said a 140 amp alt will work a 1000watt amplifier at idle right well i want to run a 1800watt kenwood will it run that good or should I say no to the 15 and yes to the 12?
 
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