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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

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mr. Duke.

what do you have performance wise.
I am building a dirt track dirt race truck, rules say it has the be all factory components, were there certain engine with better cams , heads, higher compression.

what RPM can a stock 2.5 handle ????

also , what other cars had the same TB , mine is missing .
 

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Wire Splicin Fool :-)
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A code was started mid 91-93. There will be some monkeying around to get it in there, but the engine is almost the same (you will need the A code intake, probably the ECM and some wiring maybe?)
 

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i saw what you did there!
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the tech four still existed in 91? i thought 90 was last year of these?
wow
interesting
 

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Wire Splicin Fool :-)
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IIRC 93 was the last year for the 2.5l and in 94 they started with the 2.2l....
 

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Guess that would depend upon what you are swapping into and how much of the engines you are swapping.
 

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i got one for u, my batery is new, but my lights won't come on, and my engion will turn over but not start, i got a 1990 s10
 

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Check fuses and fuse links, especially the two fuselinks on the back of the alternator that feed the truck...
 

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i checked that before i posted this, after i posted i checked all my wires, and there it was, a burnt wire coming off the alternater
 

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Re: Iron Duke Info Threads; How To; Cam gear installation.

Anybody ever done a cam gear change with the motor in the truck without pulling the cam? Well I did! And all in all i wasnt tooo bad.
The way i did it was, once i got the timing cover off I took a shop rag and stuffed it down in the oil pan to keep the debri from dropping down in it, took a ball peen hammer broke all of the laminated gear off of the pressed-on hub, used a "cheese cutter" puller to pull the hub off the cam, took a 17/64 drill bit a drilled about 1" in to the snout of the cam and treaded the hole with a 3/8-16 starter tap until in bottomed out, threaded a 6" peice of 3/8-16 threaded rod in to the end of the cam, cleaned the snout of the cam with a scotch brite wiz wheel and brake parts cleaner and applied cup grease to the cam snout and in side on the press-on hub(new cam gear), found 3 different size flat washers and a 3/8-16 nut and appied "penty" of cup grease to all of them and lined the keyway in the hub to the key on the cam and threaded the nut with the washers up snug (dont beat it on with a hammer to get it started becuase you will drive the feeze plug out the back for the block),(you can pull the gear on the the cam a little bit before it meshes with the crank gear) once the teeth get close to meshing together, line the timing marks up and press the gear on buy slowly turning the nut on the threaded rod (take your time so that you dont take a chance of pulling the threads out of the cam), press the gear on until the forward face of both gears are flush with each other, AND your done except for putting it all back together. And for an added bit of reassurance I lavishly coated the cam and crank gear with assymbly lube bfore i put the timing cover back on. Another bit of useful info is,the timing cover will come off and go back on WITHOUT dropping the oil pan.
From tear down to closing the hood after I was done took me about 5 hrs taking my time to make sure everything was right.

I wish I had took pictures when I did this but I didnt even think about it, but I hope this will help somebody out there.
 

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Wire Splicin Fool :-)
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Boosted, IIRC that is the general way my grandfather used to do it........ Been 15 years since I saw him do the one in my 87.....
 

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Ummmmmm....Does it go?
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I have to agree boosted, Heluva way to do it. I learned a similiar tirck watching my brother change cam gears on tech 4 in a grand am the same way. Now if I can just get the damn oil pan off, without removing the motor.
 

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Cool, Tight, & STRONG....
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Re: Iron Duke Info--my "tune" up...

First, we must "ass"ume that the Duke comes right from
the Pontiac Power Group at GM in a very high state of tune..regardless of what you may or may not think. It is very easy to try to second guess the Engineers at GM.

But--once again "ass"uming, it is fairly safe to say the engine IS an air-pump..what is needed is to increase the flow of air IN (intake) and air OUT (exhaust) and to do this with all stock parts and easily done
"modifications"..

There are some things to consider in the intake tract.

The Code E engine, for our example, comes right from the Factory with a very well thought-out Cold Air Induction System. It will easily out-flow the Throttle Body and the Cylinder Head based upon tubing square-inches of flow. Stated differently, the flow total is approximately 300 cu. feet per minute at Atmospheric Pressure of 14.7 psi at sea level. Where this flow number comes from is Holley. Holley made a "hot rod" aftermarket TBI unit that was a bolt-on booster. Based on their testing it was sized at 300 cu. ft/minute. Once again, we must "ass"ume that Holley flow bench tested a stock head to get this flow number.

If you cast a critical eye on the CAI system of the Duke, you can "see" (envision) some shortcomings between the "as-designed" version and the "production"
version. In the next installment, we will take a look at these shortcomings..stay "tuned"... :)
 

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Cool, Tight, & STRONG....
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Re: Iron Duke Info Threads; intake restriction...

Part Two:

Improving the Cold Air Induction System involves mainly
just sealing it up. What you want to accomplish is making sure that there cannot be any hot under-hood air that can get "pulled into" the cooler incoming outside ambient air.

My S-10's intake "funnel" at the engine bay side of the CAI had but one screw holding it against the radiator bulkhead wall..there was a visible gap all around where it attached, letting both the cool air out and the hot air in..it sorely needed a gasket, and it had none.

I used white RTV sealant (so it would show in the photographs), and later peeled it all off and used "sensor safe" black sealant, because I knew that regular sealant will pollute the O2 sensor..actually
poisoning it.

I apologize for the blurry pic here, but you get the idea..



Here is another pic of the "funnel" without the sealant:



You can see the one attaching screw hole and the goofy
metal clip thing that barely holds it on the bulkhead..after the sealant dried,
it formed a flexible gasket. But, it did not fit tightly against the wall. Pissed off, I peeled all of the fresh black sealant, gooped it up with fresh, and GLUED it on there..!!

The next pic shows the two oval openings where the incoming air flow enters the system:



The lower opening in the front side of the wall is the exact same size as the
engine bay side opening...it is lower down so that any rain in the incoming charge, will fall to the bottom and drain out the hole in bottom. The other holes that you see in the wall structure, I sealed up with black duct tape..
cheap, light weight and repairable. Why they are there, is a mystery to me.
It shows the difference between as-designed and as-built (production)..

Stay tuned..
 

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Cool, Tight, & STRONG....
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Re: Iron Duke Info Threads; following the air back..

So, now the air coming in from the high pressure area (behind the grille), is being "correctly" metered to the intact tract. The high(er) pressure comes from the forward motion of the truck. Here is another pic:



The blow hole in the upper left of the pic was filled with black sealant, as well as the un-used threaded screw holes..

Following the tubing run towards the air cleaner, we found a flow strangler. It was added to the system to change the noise of the airflow, called (by some) a resonator.

Here is where it lives:



I took further pics, showing how much smaller the restrictor is than the throttle body's butterfly valve...



And..the restriction actually fits down into the TBI..



I did what most do, I yanked that sucker outta there..

Stay tuned..
 
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