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Im about to install my tranny cooler, which line on the radiator is in and which one is out, i dont want to cut the wrong one off! lol
im pretty sure you are suppose to cut the "in" line but im not for sure which one it is, any help would be nice..thanks

chevync
 

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Discussion Starter #2
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The bottom line *should* be the pressure line and the top one *should* be the return one. Not sure about your year truck... One way to confirm which line is what is to disconnect both of the lines. Remove the coil wire so it won't start and then have someone try to start the truck. The pressure line will spew out ATF. Pics of my install here: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=76136

HTH's

Mike Campbell
 

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Should we be worried about overcooling in the winter?? I have one of those B&M 30000 LB GVWR coolers!
 

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During the winter months, I zip tie an old license plate (turned backwards) to my grill in front of my cooler. It's a perfect fit too. I used to remove the rubber lines and remove the cooler from the equation as I didn't have to cut the return line. After all the plumbing was removed, I capped off the inlet and outlet of my cooler with vacuum line caps.

However that last time I did the above, the return line to my trans was a little rusty and it ended up breaking when I was messing with it. So, had to remove Y-pipe to replace both lines (might as well replace both while I'm at it). One of the exhaust bolts broke off in the driver's side exhaust manifold despite use of the blue tipped wrench. Had to remove the manifold and drill out said bolt and retap the manifold. That's why the lazy ass license plate "mod" now...

I have read that your trans temps should be around 30-50 degrees of your coolant temp. If you look at the size trans coolers in vehicles that are OEM, they are pretty small. Seems to be an effort to try and cool the ATF when it gets hot but not over cool it when it gets cold out. When it gets really cold out, my Autometer trans temp gauge won't even move past 100 degrees when my cooler is connected... Sometimes you can have to much of a good thing. HTH's

Mike Campbell
 

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Yeah too much of a good thing is what I am worried about-

I have a trans temp gauge not hooked up yet... I dont have the right fittings :(

Would a dealer give me trouble about warranty work on my tranny since I have the cooler??!!
 

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It depends on the "stealership" that you are dealing with. If they are hard asses about it, they could VERY well void your warranty. Because they didn't do the install, they could say that it (your transmission) failed due to you "messing" with it, i.e. putting on an aftermarket trans cooler. You had the lines on wrong, got dirt in the lines putting the cooler on, ran it low after you put the cooler on and burnt the ATF, etc, etc. etc. I HATE "stealerships", the only thing I get from them is "dealership only parts" when I fix it MYSELF. Bottom line is this, if you take it back to the "stealership" to have any transmission related warranty work done, I would remove the cooler so they don't have a leg to stand on saying that the trans failed due to a something that you did. HTH's

Mike Campbell
 

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Yeah thanks- thats what I was thinking of doing, removing it.

I get bad vibes sometimes when I am hammering on it on the highway- the auto goes into 3rd and sometimes you can feel a bit of vibration, other times not. Might just live with it-
 

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Discussion Starter #9
G60_Likes_2_Break said:
Should we be worried about overcooling in the winter?? I have one of those B&M 30000 LB GVWR coolers!
35f when mine overheated...
 

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what were you towing!? was the cooler plugged? .....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i wasnt towing anything, i didnt have a cooler on the truck when it started overheating, acually thats the point of this thread was to find out which line was which and im still not sure..lol
 

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im going to take it to the local shop here and have them install it, also the corvette servos, so hopefully ill be ready to roll tomarrow! lol
 

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pretty sure the bottom line into the cooler is from the tranny and the top is from the cooler to the tranny- it really doesnt matter, you end up cooling the same amount. Its just a question of who does it first, the stock cooler or the new one!

the install is sooo easy i would save your money man- I spliced mine onto the top line- it goes through the stock cooler and then through the B&M.

Generally almost all parallel flow heat exchangers flow this way- the product being cooled comes out the top due to the thermodynamics behind it all.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just hope the cooler i got will work, Derale 13101
 

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hook it up and drive.... she'll work if it fits!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I bought one at autozone, then a friend of mine works at a garage and got me one for free, so i took the one i had orignally back to autozone..lol
 

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I am wondering why your tranny overheated when it was 35 deg out.... did you have a temp gauge? how did you know it was overheated?

I have towed my volkswagen when it was 90 DEG out @60-70 mph and it didnt die on me-

PS- VW corrado = 2800 LB + 200LB or so car dolly.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ive heard that the 4l60e's are bad for overheating, someone here on the forum said his done the same thing, something about the 4 bangers revving higher and not cooling fast enough, i was going to WV and went thru a tunnel (55mph) and when i got back upto speed it wouldnt idle back down, just kept revving up, so i pulled it over and had it towed back to NC, his was doing the exact same thing mine was doing, mine only slipped that one time, just driving local it does fine, that was the first and only time it has slipped, he said he got a tranny cooler and it hasnt done it since...
 

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Cooking your ATF is bad news. At 240 degrees, varnishes form on your clutches causing even more slippage and even more heat... HTH's

Mike Campbell
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I had the filter and fluid changed a week after that happened..
 
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