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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up an '02 ext cab 2.2 manual S10. It has 62000 miles on the clock and runs great.

Just one glitch and thats the transmission....
Getting ready to pull the transmission (NV1500) to replace the pilot bushing and input shaft bearing to get rid of the excessive rumble in neutral (clutch pedal up).
I live in Sweden so replacing the transmission is not an option, they are as rare as hens teeth around here.

Been searching all over the web for info on the procedure and found lots of great information.

What I have not found anywhere though, is how to replace the input shaft bearing.
Has anyone on this forum done it?
Is it possible to do pull the bearing out after removing the bearing retainer in the bellhousing or will I have to split the transmission and take it out from the inside?
If i split the transmission, are there any gaskets or seals I'll have to replace to get it back together?
Anyone have a description on spitting the NV1500 (and getting it back together...)?
Does anyone have an exploded view of the NV1500?

Also, it seems the input shaft bearing is no longer available from GM, but I found out the bearing to use is the Timken 306-VLL. Can anyone confirm this?

After getting it back together I plan on sticking with the GM Synchromesh Friction Modified oil. Been reading lots of good reports on Royal Purple but its sadly not imported to Sweden. Any other brand recommended like RedLine, Pennzoil....?

Sorry for all the questions and the long post, just want to get it right the first time.

Thankful for any info!

/Dan
 

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Chances are its your pilot bushing. I had a front main bearing on the trans go bad on me due to a really bad pilot bushing. I had to replace the transmission. NV1500s cannot be taken apart by anyone other than the manufacturer or someone authorized to work on them. You need a lot of special tools. Im going on what i have been told anyway.

I pulled the front main bearing cover off to look at mine and found the bearing in pieces. but from what i remember there wasnt a way to get it out to replace it. Look at my cardomain link for pics of it. Im at work and cant access it to link them to here for you. Ill be home in 3 hours and i will do it then. And that sucks about royal purple not shipping to you. guess youll have to go w/ some other brand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your input!

Yes, the pilot bushing is probably the root of the problem and it will be replaced.
However, chances are the input shaft bearing also has some damage from the lack of support at the pilot end and I want to replace that too before i grenades.
Cant really see why anyone would make a design that utilizes a bronze bushing at that location that gets no lubrication during it's (short..) lifecycle. Would be so much better with a needle bearing!

I have searched extensively through this forum and the rest of the web and your pics are already saved on my harddrive for reference.

Cant seem to find anyone who has cracked the NV1500 open and your statement might explain why. Guess I will be the first one to do it then...

The quest for more info continous :)

/Dan
 

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go to cobratransmission.com they can get the bearing for the front. It list it i believe under the getrag 290,nv3500, nv1500. I was told by aamco that it would have to be diss assembled and would be 700 just to put the front bearing in. I took the trans to a shop i work with at work on parts retail. I took it to him and he put it in for free. Its what i would have done. He took the trans and set the tail on the ground with towels under so the tail shaft dont get messed up. The back part of the bearing was pressed on and when i pulled the bearing off it stayed. We took the new bearing, and took the back part off and installed it with the old piece on the main shaft. You will jsut have to pull the front bearing and see which type it is. Mine was a thick bearing.
 

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this is the new one

 

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SlammedSonoma96
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ok, I just did mine. To remove the front bearing, you have to split the case open. to do this, you have to remove the detent plug, that holds the shifter spring in., once that is removed, remove the fron cover inside the bellhousing, and remove the snap ring behind it. Now remove the 9 bolts holding the cases together, and pull apart. The front bearing is pressed in, so you need to push from inside the bellhousing, toward the internal side.
 

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Thanks for your input!

Yes, the pilot bushing is probably the root of the problem and it will be replaced.
However, chances are the input shaft bearing also has some damage from the lack of support at the pilot end and I want to replace that too before i grenades.
Cant really see why anyone would make a design that utilizes a bronze bushing at that location that gets no lubrication during it's (short..) lifecycle. Would be so much better with a needle bearing!

I have searched extensively through this forum and the rest of the web and your pics are already saved on my harddrive for reference.

Cant seem to find anyone who has cracked the NV1500 open and your statement might explain why. Guess I will be the first one to do it then...

The quest for more info continous :)

/Dan
Its oil impregnated brass is what i was told by a machinist buddy of mine. Needle bearings would have been a much better idea agreed! I drove home 60 miles up and down hills going 30 miles an hour on a highway and my truck sounding like a train on rail road tracks!
From what i can recall you could probably just pull that cover off and check the bearing. if it looks good and you have little play on the shaft i wouldnt replace it.

Tim89 your front main bearing looks different than mine. I know for a fact i have a NV1500. Are you sure yours is? I have heard by many people on the forum you could not disassemble these transmissions to change bearings.


 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok, I just did mine. To remove the front bearing, you have to split the case open. to do this, you have to remove the detent plug, that holds the shifter spring in., once that is removed, remove the fron cover inside the bellhousing, and remove the snap ring behind it. Now remove the 9 bolts holding the cases together, and pull apart. The front bearing is pressed in, so you need to push from inside the bellhousing, toward the internal side.

Thanks!

What bearing did you use?
Was it the Timken 306-VVL? (VV = rubber seals on both sides, L = snapring)

A regular 6306N bearing has the same dimensions (id:30mm, od:72mm, w:19mm) and snapring but no seals.

To me it sounds as if the seals would be a good thing in order to keep the small particles and shavings that always floats around in a transmission out of the bearing.

Last night I got hold of the Chevy service book and the procedure is described just as you said :)
I will scan these papers and put them up here for future reference and I will take lots of photos during the actual dismantling.

No one should have to junk their trans over a broken input shaft bearing :(


Thanks again!

/Dan
 

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Its oil impregnated brass is what i was told by a machinist buddy of mine. Needle bearings would have been a much better idea agreed! I drove home 60 miles up and down hills going 30 miles an hour on a highway and my truck sounding like a train on rail road tracks!
From what i can recall you could probably just pull that cover off and check the bearing. if it looks good and you have little play on the shaft i wouldnt replace it.

Tim89 your front main bearing looks different than mine. I know for a fact i have a NV1500. Are you sure yours is? I have heard by many people on the forum you could not disassemble these transmissions to change bearings.








My transmission is from a 89/90 k1500 with a v8 so its a getrag290 or nv3500. The site i listed earlier has the same bearing listed for the getrag nv3500 and the nv1500.
 

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My transmission is from a 89/90 k1500 with a v8 so its a getrag290 or nv3500. The site i listed earlier has the same bearing listed for the getrag nv3500 and the nv1500.
Hmm right on man ill jot this site down incase i need it in the future! Would have possibly saved me some money a while back. :-(
 

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SlammedSonoma96
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Thanks!

What bearing did you use?
Was it the Timken 306-VVL? (VV = rubber seals on both sides, L = snapring)

A regular 6306N bearing has the same dimensions (id:30mm, od:72mm, w:19mm) and snapring but no seals.

To me it sounds as if the seals would be a good thing in order to keep the small particles and shavings that always floats around in a transmission out of the bearing.

Last night I got hold of the Chevy service book and the procedure is described just as you said :)
I will scan these papers and put them up here for future reference and I will take lots of photos during the actual dismantling.

No one should have to junk their trans over a broken input shaft bearing :(


Thanks again!

/Dan
Mine was the 6306-N
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got around to do this last weekend and heres the story:

Parts used:

Pilot bushing (GM)
Input shaft bearing (SKF 6306N 2RS)
Transmission fluid (GM Synchromesh friction modified)
Sealer (I used Hondabond cause that was what i had, if it works for sealing crankcases in motorcycle engines it should work for a transmission).

1. Get the transmission out. This procedure is described elsewhere on the forum and will not be discussed here.
2. Remove the slave cyl.
3. Remove the input shaft bearing retainer. You need to pry it off as the sealer holds it on pretty good.
4. Remove the snapring from the input shaft.
5. Remove the single bolt at the top of the transmission.
6. Remove the detent plug at the top left side of the transmission and pull out the spring and pin. You´ll have to be a little creative to get the plug out but its not that difficult.
7. Remove the nine bolts that holds the front and rear cases together.
8. Pull the cases apart, be careful not to damage the sealing surface.
9. Tap out the old inputshaft bearing and replace with new.
10. Remove magnetic strip at the bottom of the rear case and wipe off the strip and the floor of the case.
11. Clean all of the sealing surfaces.
12. Chase the nine threads in the front case while its still apart.
13. Apply sealer to the front case sealing surface and put the cases back together.
14. Torque down the nine bolts.
15. Remount the snapring on the input shaft.
16. Apply sealer to the back of the input shaft bearing retainer and remount it.
17. Remount the bolt at the top of the transmission. Use LocTite on this bolt.
18. Remount the pin, spring and detent plug and tap it lightly into position.
19. Remount the slave cylinder.
20. Replace the pilot bushing in the crankshaft. Mine was badly damaged and practically fell out. Methods for getting a more stubborn one out is described elsewhere on the forum.
21. Stick the transmission back in the truck and fill with new trans fluid.


This took 10 hours on from start to finish.
3 of the 10 were spent on getting the rusty seized bolts on the exhaust downpipe off.
I was fortunate enough to have access to a lift, transmission jack and airtools.
With all bolts turning freely it would probably be done in six hours if I had to do it again.


Cheers
Dan
 

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So this trans can be overhauled with standard hand tools? I am in desperate need of a rebuild. Plan to order an overhaul kit tonight. Have plenty of knowledge, tools, but very little time. Need to get this done as quickly as possible as it is my DD. Want to be as best prepared as possible. Is a bearing press needed?
 

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FYI i have double posted this a couple of times to help desperate NV1500 owners...

i know this is kinda late but it might help someone on here. I was having some trouble getting my trans tore down, and after searching for MANY hours, I have found this PDF document online with step by step teardown and rebuild instructions. When you click the link below it will automatically open a PDF doc., the NV1500 stuff starts on page 45.

LINK!
 

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Re: Input shaft bushing replacement 2003 S10

Getting ready to reinstall transmission for first time, got some questions;

1) Do I need to lubricate the new shaft bushing with something?

2) Any tips on installing it?
 

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Just picked up an '02 ext cab 2.2 manual S10. It has 62000 miles on the clock and runs great.

Just one glitch and thats the transmission....
Getting ready to pull the transmission (NV1500) to replace the pilot bushing and input shaft bearing to get rid of the excessive rumble in neutral (clutch pedal up).
I live in Sweden so replacing the transmission is not an option, they are as rare as hens teeth around here.

Been searching all over the web for info on the procedure and found lots of great information.

What I have not found anywhere though, is how to replace the input shaft bearing.
Has anyone on this forum done it?
Is it possible to do pull the bearing out after removing the bearing retainer in the bellhousing or will I have to split the transmission and take it out from the inside?
If i split the transmission, are there any gaskets or seals I'll have to replace to get it back together?
Anyone have a description on spitting the NV1500 (and getting it back together...)?
Does anyone have an exploded view of the NV1500?

Also, it seems the input shaft bearing is no longer available from GM, but I found out the bearing to use is the Timken 306-VLL. Can anyone confirm this?

After getting it back together I plan on sticking with the GM Synchromesh Friction Modified oil. Been reading lots of good reports on Royal Purple but its sadly not imported to Sweden. Any other brand recommended like RedLine, Pennzoil....?

Sorry for all the questions and the long post, just want to get it right the first time.

Thankful for any info!

/Dan
It can be done with everyday tools and in about 1 hour with the trany out. remove clutch release assembly (2, 10 mm bolts) remove bearing retainer / cover (5, 13mm bolts) remove cir clip from the input shaft (circular keeper around shaft against bearing) remove shift rod detent pin and spring (little 12mm round black cap near the top of the case just behind "bell housing" on drivers side of case, it just pries out it's lightly press fitted) see items numbered 39 & 40 on picture, remove 7 of the 9, 13mm bolts holding the two case halves together, leave in but loosen 2 bolts to keep it together till you are ready to separate the case. now find a six inch long piece of 3in PVC sewer pipe & one 5 gallon paint bucket, put the pipe piece on the tail piece of the trany and tape or wire it in place. pick up the trany, put it tail first into the bucket, remove the last 2 case bolts and lift the case half up and off. You may need to tap it with a plastic hammer to get it to pop loose. Now you can change the bearing with the same plastic hammer. most of the time you can just slide the case half back on with some gasket sealer goo on the halves but sometimes you need to pack axle grease into the roller bearing on the end of the gear cluster (item 50 in picture) to get it to stay small enough to slide into place. don't remove that bearing or if you do be sure that the big side of the cage goes toward the gear so it gets closest to the gear (you will understand once you see it). Put it back together, reverse process, and pat yourself on the back. Congratulations you just saved about $1000
334204

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334205
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