If you went this far, would you do cab corners?

817 Views 18 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Watthour, 2 mo ago

sikbrik

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

I've gotten the extended cab outer rocker off but the rear section seems bonded into the extended cab panel.

I'm considering just welding right at that seam but I just really need some opinions. There's some surface rust inside there but it looks pretty superficial:

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I can't see a good way to separate the rear section of the rocker, which sits inside this panel if I don't cut it down.

SO should I leave it there, just spray some converter or oil in there, and cut/weld my rocker at the seam? Or would you cut the cab corners off and replace or clean them up and refit them, if possible? I'm not looking to have a show car but I don't want this biting me in a few years. Thanks for your opinions and advice.

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In_The_Pink

· #2 · 3 mo ago

sikbrik said:
I don't want this biting me in a few years.

I think that answers your own question. It looks a bit heavier than surface rust, but hard to tell via a screen honestly.

You already have a significant chunk of metal removed, so, would keep going until you reach solid metal.

Reactions: 4

sikbrik

Discussion Starter · #3 · 3 mo ago

Well, don't go looking for trouble because you're bound to find it. I guess I'll be metalworking this truck for a while. It's on both sides, not as bad on the left.

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In_The_Pink

· #4 · 3 mo ago

There's always more out of sight, waiting...

Reactions: 1

aitch

· #5 · 3 mo ago

In_The_Pink said:
There's always more out of sight, waiting...

Cue up the Jaws soundtrack!

Reactions: 1

hit_4_show

· #6 · 3 mo ago

sikbrik said:
Well, don't go looking for trouble because you're bound to find it. I guess I'll be metalworking this truck for a while. It's on both sides, not as bad on the left.

Although I owned a 1st gen a very long time ago, I am not nearly as familiar w/ them as 2nd gen's. If that was a 2nd gen, I would expect that rust to have originated from a leak in the cowl plenum. Once the seam sealer fails, I think the water and subsequent rust just follows the seams.

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Salty Crusty

· #7 · 3 mo ago

You poor *** that live in rust prone areas, I feel for you.
Nothing constructive to add, just that.

Reactions: 3

sikbrik

Discussion Starter · #8 · 3 mo ago

hit_4_show said:
Although I owned a 1st gen a very long time ago, I am not nearly as familiar w/ them as 2nd gen's. If that was a 2nd gen, I would expect that rust to have originated from a leak in the cowl plenum. Once the seam sealer fails, I think the water and subsequent rust just follows the seams.

It is a 2nd gen and that appears to be precisely it. I scraped all the cracked seam sealer out and will reseal it once I patch it up. I also don't love the way the front floor reinforcement at the body mount is sandwiched together with no sealer, but I guess it's to allow for drainage.

In central Pennsylvania, having the inner fender sitting against that area doesn't seem to help things, as it doesn't look like it ever dries and salt collects in there, too.

So the question is, keep the spot welded lip/seam or just butt in a formed patch and get rid of that entire lip?

Mad Max

· #9 · 3 mo ago

One thing is definite, salt goes EVERYWHERE!
When I weld in patches, I usually use weld through primer and the coat all of the metal with cosmolene.
The military uses it for rust proofing and all of the jobs I've used it on have little to no rust return.

I remember working on an original Brit Mini that was bought over from Canada. I replaced a rotted driver door skin.
The car had been Ziebarted and still rotted. You could see where the salt traveled up the inside of the door skin and stopped. Sort of like paper chromatography (remember that from high school?)
Anyway, salt sux.

Reactions: 1

hit_4_show

· #10 · 3 mo ago

sikbrik said:
It is a 2nd gen and that appears to be precisely it. I scraped all the cracked seam sealer out and will reseal it once I patch it up. I also don't love the way the front floor reinforcement at the body mount is sandwiched together with no sealer, but I guess it's to allow for drainage.

In central Pennsylvania, having the inner fender sitting against that area doesn't seem to help things, as it doesn't look like it ever dries and salt collects in there, too.

So the question is, keep the spot welded lip/seam or just butt in a formed patch and get rid of that entire lip?

I confused your vehicle with a 1st gen in a different thread. I do not see a problem with eliminating the lip. I thought there was a sufficient air gap between the inner fender and cab, but I have not looked up into that area recently. I repaired that area on my current daily driver years ago, but did not have a welder at that time.

Reactions: 1

BravadaX

· #11 · 3 mo ago

go buy a truck from the south and swap cabs. it’s probably cheaper. I know it’s easier. 🤓

sikbrik

Discussion Starter · #12 · 3 mo ago

BravadaX said:
go buy a truck from the south and swap cabs. it’s probably cheaper. I know it’s easier. 🤓

Yeah, it's definitely a thought if I find any more rust beyond this stuff. This is good practice for me, since I've never done much body work and thankfully nothing structural is bad (yet.). But it does stink...what was to be a quick fix (bed was dented) to make a driver has turned into a project.

Recently bought a southern California car and it doesn't even have a speck of rust anywhere. I was stunned 😅 I've had to scrap my fair share of northeastern vehicles over the years. I'm jealous of you folks who live in steel-friendly locales.

For as far as I have it apart, a cab swap isn't a terrible idea.

chevymec

· #13 · 3 mo ago

I would, that will make it way through in a few years. My buddy just replaced my lower rocker on my '05 2500 and we used the 3M wax spray after he finished that side and the other. He said it won't stop the rust but will help prolong it as the rust need air to grow.

Reactions: 1

sikbrik

Discussion Starter · #14 · 3 mo ago

Key parts cab corner arrived today. Price is cheap enough and it's not much more work than the rocker itself. It'll probably sit in the box until the garage temps are back above freezing.

Stinman

· #15 · 3 mo ago

You might check your frame before you get too far into it. My 98 2nd gen rotted on both sides between the front and rear cab mounts. Got another frame in the wings waiting for warmer weather. The fully boxed In portion seems to hold salt and moisture pretty bad. Mine looks like swiss cheese except the top rail. Good luck!

Reactions: 1

sikbrik

Discussion Starter · #16 · 3 mo ago

Stinman said:
You might check your frame before you get too far into it. My 98 2nd gen rotted on both sides between the front and rear cab mounts. Got another frame in the wings waiting for warmer weather. The fully boxed In portion seems to hold salt and moisture pretty bad. Mine looks like swiss cheese except the top rail. Good luck!

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to go back under. So far, frame looked great from cab to rear (had bed removed) and cab to radiator (currently all apart) but I haven't checked extensively directly under the center of the cab. The parts I can see look solid but I may lift the cab up a few inches to be sure.

I found a portion of my issue was the pinch welds at the firewall, in addition to the cowl area. They're actually "open" and you can see light once you remove the inner seam sealer. This pic is basically the wheel arch portion of the firewall. Why they sealed the inside and not the outside makes little sense to me.

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wrongway1

· #17 · 3 mo ago

I'm kinda in the same boat. The floor pan seems just fine but I could stick my head
through the cab corners! The fleetside bed was toast but the stepside is great so that part is a eazy fix.
Cant wait to see your truck when its done!

Reactions: 1

PeteD

· #18 · 3 mo ago

sikbrik said:
I've gotten the extended cab outer rocker off but the rear section seems bonded into the extended cab panel.

I'm considering just welding right at that seam but I just really need some opinions. There's some surface rust inside there but it looks pretty superficial:
View attachment 374089

I can't see a good way to separate the rear section of the rocker, which sits inside this panel if I don't cut it down.

SO should I leave it there, just spray some converter or oil in there, and cut/weld my rocker at the seam? Or would you cut the cab corners off and replace or clean them up and refit them, if possible? I'm not looking to have a show car but I don't want this biting me in a few years. Thanks for your opinions and advice.
View attachment 374090

Ya, do it All. Then keep it away from salt (streets, oceans,bayous, Gulfs, etc.)

Reactions: 1

Watthour

· #19 · 2 mo ago

Some of us have no choice about salt. The local municipalities spread it by the train load from October to April. The best we can do is wash frequently and park in a heated garage to allow complete drying every day/night.

Reactions: 1

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