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i want this wheel
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642 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I first bought this truck, I was gung ho for a flat black rattle can job. I even posted a thread with a rattle canned GTO i though was bad-assed. Got lots of hate for it, but I remained undaunted.

and then I read more. And more. And more. And slowly, you guys wore me down. the two things that stopped me are:
1. The finish deteriorates quickly
2. its a motherfugger to get off if you ever decide to get real paint.

When I thought I'd own it till death do us apart, I didn't care. But now I think about resale, and how with the 'canned paint, I'd have to find someone who didn't care and sell it cheap. And I will sell it one day.

But here's my question: Many of the parts I've acquired to repair my truck are completely different colors... So I'd like to use some rattle can primer. That stuff is ok, right? Any particular brand preferred?
 

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238 Posts
A gallon of real primer and thinner is cheap. Do you have an air compressor?

If so its really a small investment to at least get started in painting.
 

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Professional Insultant
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5,928 Posts
from reading DevilDriver's paint FAQ

SOME primers in a spray can are OK. He said some are higher quality and will work for SPOT repairs like shaving a tailgate handle, but I'd still go with an even higher quality primer if you plan on doing an entire panel.

Plus it's a pain getting it smooth out of a spray can, it takes more sanding to get it to look smooth before putting any color on it.

I used a spray can primer for my tailgate, it was EverCoat brand acid-etch primer. It's MUCH better than something like duplicolor primer.


Also, just because it is paint gun primer doesn't mean it's good either.
I've heard eastwood and paint-for-cars is still garbage even though you need a paint gun.

I saw ebay has PPG brand primer, with the activator it was like $70 bucks for 2 spray-able quarts or something, but you'd probably spend close to that buying a crap ton of aerasol cans to do a full 3 layers on a few panels.

I still have half a quart of Dupont chroma-one and I only bought 1 quart to paint my whole motorcycle.
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
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5,363 Posts
ive tested a few different rattlecan primers for both adhesion and reaction, some were better than others, some were just plan old crap... and obviously none can hold a flame to real primer

the problem is that its based on lacquer technology, which was outdated decades ago, and because of this, it never cures, only dries, has zero fill properties, gums when sanded, and would forever be the weak link in your paintjob

get good primer, if you get a economy line its really not that hard on the wallet, i use omni primers all the time
 

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i want this wheel
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642 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks again! I know someone who'll spray gun it for me, I was just feeling impatient.... But I see that it pays to wait.

You guys are raising my standards. I hate when that happens! :haha:
 

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i want this wheel
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642 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
this rustoleum paintjob is all I wanted when I joined:

Good enough for a beater... but now I want


I hate you all.:haha:
 

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i saw what you did there!
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3,573 Posts
i did mine with flat black rustoleum in quart can with mid temp reducer that was laying around our shop with a cheap regular old spray gun and it worked fine and i dont even know how to spray or what reducer is meant for really.

i knocked the air down to about 40 psi and went at it

a couple or three runs on the truck but nothing horrible

i swapped a blue hood on my truck since then and have some wear and tear on the body and a coupe new dents in the fenders etc since then also and so it is in need of a re do im thinking of going with a flat medium or dark blue of some kind this time., if rustoleum has any..
 

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Professional Insultant
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5,928 Posts
I've really wanted to try some more custom paint jobs...

I just about convinced my friend to let my paint his 94 grand am and put some hockey stripes on it, but then someone backed into it and messed the hood all up and he didn't see the point in trying to make it look nice after that.

I was probably going to use vinyl decals to get good straight lines and then peel the vinyl off after the second base color. It's nothing like that silver truck's airbrushing work but I think a beginner could handle some good looking stripes/two tones etc with patience and a steady hand.
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
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5,363 Posts
I was probably going to use vinyl decals to get good straight lines and then peel the vinyl off after the second base color.
you dont want to use vinyl for that, vinyl is way too sticky and you run the risk of pulling base off or leaving adhesive behind.... thats what fineline and masking tape is made for, its cheaper, easier to use, and works better
 
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