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165432 Newbie MEOW!
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all! I'm a newbie here on this board. longtime member on "some other" s-dime board, but it seems like you guys are waaaay more active and knowledgeable on here. so here goes...

2001 4.3 Xtreme


i had a lifter colapsed/stuck due to the typical intake gasket leaking coolant into the block. i ordered the o.e. roller lifter set made by comp cams. (850-12)

http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp%20Cams/249/850-12/10002/-1

and the good $80 intake gasket set from felpro. long story short, now it won't start. i marked the rotor and the dist body before removal, but it still seems like a timing issue. so i started by moving the dist 180 degrees. no luck. one way, it seems to pop from the tail pipe, but only on one cylinder. the other way, it seems to lock-up or stop for a second, but only one one cyl per rotation. (seems to be the same cyl everytime.) it is getting spark, and i checked the fuel pressure at 60+psi. and it has good compression in cyl one and two...i have yet to check the rest. i got the # 1 cyl at tdc on the compression stroke, then lined the rotor up with the # 1 lug inside the dist cap. it then cranks about 3 full revolutions before it "locks up" for about a quarter second, then it seems like it does it on the same cyl for the rest of the time while it's cranking.

i realllllly don't wanna do this again. i tried moving the dist a tooth at a time, but it got realllly frustrating, and it was late (3am) so i got a lil confused. it's gettin it's battery charged rite now.

i've contemplated the idea that the new lifters are bad/wrong!!! i soaked the lifters in oil prior to installing them.

the last thing i tried...was puting about a tablespoon of gas in the throttle body. it seemed like maybe it wanted to start, but the battery died during this crank session.

not to sound stupid, but the timing tab....is it the "butt" shaped piece that is cast into the block at about the 1 o'clock position (when compared to the harmonic balancer)


any help is appreciated. please, please, please!!!

thanx,

D
 

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not to sound stupid, but the timing tab....is it the "butt" shaped piece that is cast into the block at about the 1 o'clock position (when compared to the harmonic balancer)
Yep. You can see that little ass perfectly from the driver's side of the radiator or from underneath. Had to keep my eye on that quite a times within the last couple years... ugh
 

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Age: 15 1/2
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Cylinder #1 TDC compression stroke: the rotor needs to point to #6 not #1.
It should be between #6 and #1 but as close to #6 as possible.

Did you rotate the engine after removing the dizzy?
 

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Wouldn't you have to rotate the engine to replace the lifters?

Anyway, there are a lot of pages here that show how to line up the timing marks so you are at TDC #1. If you are only going off one mark on the balancer/tab you might have it wrong.
 

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Will work for turbo parts
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You can pull the lifters out with a magnet. You shouldn't have to turn the crank.
 

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165432 Newbie MEOW!
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Discussion Starter #6
Cylinder #1 TDC compression stroke: the rotor needs to point to #6 not #1.
It should be between #6 and #1 but as close to #6 as possible.

Did you rotate the engine after removing the dizzy?

i HOPE TO GOD that this is my problem. i am sooo afraid that i may have broken a wire in the harnes diring removal/installation of the manifold. my dad id a pretty "old school" hot rodder from way back. he came over last nite, and TOGETHER we were scratching our heads. kinda got to thinking that soaking the lifters in oil may have doomed me since it's a non-adjustable valvetrain. like maybe the lifters were full, and now they are sealed off inside and holding valves open. i've checked comp on two cyl's and they seemed really good.

ima go try putting the rotor between 1+6...*crosses fingers and says a little prayer*

this is only my second post, and already THIS IS THE BEST S10 SITE EVER!!! thanx for all the replies. i put basically this same problem up on another board back on monday, and it's only gotten ONE reply!! you guys rock!!
 

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Age: 15 1/2
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Ya, rotating the dizzy and timing by ear first, was how I was taught. And it saved a lot of time. However, electronic advance and controlled fuel injection is better. Less wear and tear, better efficentcy, but a PIA sometimes to trouble shoot, if you are used to using your brain to figure things out.
One thing to take into account: the dizzy has 13 teath,so if you are on the intake stroke you don't turn the dizzy 180`.
You need to point the rotor close to #4, while between #4 and #3.
Please dont ask....
 

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165432 Newbie MEOW!
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Discussion Starter #8
okay...
i lined the timing marks up and put the rotor pointing toward the #6 that is cast into the housing (see post # 30 in this thread. http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f107/pos-distributors-from-gm-328316/ )

it seemed closer to running than it ever has. so then once again, i put a tablespoon of gas into the throttle body, AND IT STARTED!! but it only lasted for about 2 seconds. i have since tried this about 3 times total, and it starts everytime...for 2 seconds. so, i have a brand new oil can squirter that i am thinking of filling with gas and just pumping it into the TB through the crankcase tube opening to see if it will stay running. use a length of vacuum tubing to attatch to the squirter tip and run it through the hole and over to just above the butterfly. (did i make sense there?)

does this new symptom of seeming fuel-starved seem like something? is there anything that kills power to the injectors? i was told the "theftlock" would kill the ignition if i disconnected the battery. but i made sure to take care of this.

*sigh* it's been over a week since she's been on the road. severe depression is starting to set in.

D
 

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Age: 15 1/2
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On your air inlet you have a MAF sensor. Disconnect the connector running to it and see if your injectors will turn on. Try and start it again!
Cross your fingers.
 

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165432 Newbie MEOW!
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Discussion Starter #10
i will try that. i had it disconnected while cranking yesterday, but it was timed wrong then. man, i would GLADLY buy another MAF sensor if it made the truck run again.
thanx again!

D
 

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165432 Newbie MEOW!
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Discussion Starter #11
okay...no miracle cure yet. disconected the maf-no start. then i poured about an ounce of gas in the TB and it starts. i took a rubber glove and zip tied it around the tube coming out of the pass side valve cover. should this tube have vacuum or pressure coming out of it? i ask because it had a helluva lot of vacuum! it pulled the glove in soo far that i took off the oil cap and put my hand over it to check. keep in mind i did all this while it was only running for 5 seconds at a time, max.

i can't figure out why the crankcase would have soo much vacuum.

how to you test a map sensor? and for that matter, how do you remove it? it seems really loose and wiggly, but it wont just pull out. i don't want to break it.

thanx guys.

D
 

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Will work for turbo parts
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Does it still have fuel pressure?
 

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165432 Newbie MEOW!
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Discussion Starter #13
yes. between 50 and 60 psi. at the rail.

D
 

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165432 Newbie MEOW!
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Discussion Starter #16
i removed the map sensor. how can i test it's funtionality without the truck running? i tried using a DMM and reading across all the terminals with, and without, a vacuum being applied to it. the resistance never changed.

would a bad map sensor cause it to not start? also, any ideas on the high amount of vacuum in the crankcase?

D
 

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Age: 15 1/2
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okay...no miracle cure yet. disconected the maf-no start. then i poured about an ounce of gas in the TB and it starts. i took a rubber glove and zip tied it around the tube coming out of the pass side valve cover. should this tube have vacuum or pressure coming out of it? ...
Why do you have your valve covers on already?
How did you adjust the valve clearance????
 

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165432 Newbie MEOW!
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
my truck has non-adjustable roller fulcrum rockers. it said just crank um down and yer done. i'm not sure when these trucks changed to this style of heads, but i took pictures if ya dont believe me ! :)

i sure wish i knew about my map sensor....

D
 

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165432 Newbie MEOW!
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Discussion Starter #19
haha! i know what i need...another s10 just like mine. i could park um next to each other and compare EVERYTHING!!!

i need to find out if it will start with the map AND maf sensors disconnected AT THE SAME TIME. i have the maf unhooked so i can pour fuel in the intake, and i think the map may be bad. maybe i should clean out the egr also. could that keep it from starting? it really does seem like it just starving for fuel.

god this sux! gimmie a good ol' small block 350 with a q-jet on it. problem solved.

D
 

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Age: 15 1/2
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MAP sensor: connect a vac line and suck in on it while watching the meter.
Note* I'm not the expert here....
Crank case vac. You probably should see ~4lbs of vacuum if you are cranking the engine but it is not running. The vac is a product of intake piston blowby, but no possitive piston blow by because the cylinder isn't firing. When the engine is running the PVC system should be taking the pressure out.
If you are getting too much vac, check for a stuck, non functioning, plugged PVC valve or line. You also may need a heavier weight oil.
 
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