[AVTekk]

I just completed this mod on a customers truck not too long ago so I thought it would be nice to share the knowledge.

I start by removing the door panels, and mounting the solenoids inside the door skin. This is the style of kit that uses a steel cable to pull the latch, so the easiest place to mount the solenoids is in the jam, as low as possible. You then need to mark and drill where its going to be bolted, and then mock it up. Heres a good shot from outside of the placement:

 

[AVTekk]

I then measure the distance from the top of the solenoid to the latch mechanism, then pull the latch and actuator out, set them down the right distance apart, and run the steel cable thru both and crimp the supplied cable stay in the middle. Its much easier this way then trying to work inside the door skin.

You then go and mount both back to the door. Heres an inside placement shot:

 

[AVTekk]

Another thing I like to do is permently disable the locking mechanism. If you lock the doors by accident, or someone doesnt know any better, then youre screwed, you cant get inside your truck. You can disconnect the lock rod from the latch, but the mechanism can fall down inside the door locking you out. So what I do is run a self tapping screw into an unused hole on the backside of the latch, and ziptie the locking arm up so there no chance of it falling..

 

[AVTekk]

Thats probably the hardest part of the install, beside the welding. Now we need to go onto wiring. The kit Im using comes mostly prewired, so we just need to hook up what were using. It has 7 available channels, but Im only using 2, so I tape off the other 5 and wrap them up.

Green: drivers door solenoid
Blue: passenger door solenoid
Red: battery
Orange: constant
Black: ground
Gray: emergency switch

 

[AVTekk]

Heres a shot of where I typically hook up the source for the brain. This is a 2003 S-10 so the pink wire under the column is tapped for voltage. Remember to check the wire with a multi meter tho.

 

[AVTekk]

On the the outside, we have to hook up the emergency switch, in case your remote gets lost or the remote battery dies. I hate to give away secrets like this, because this is a killer spot. One place I like to mount the switch is in the drivers side fender, up inside the cavity behind the bumper. Its easily drilled out from inside the engine bay, and is hidden by the windshield wiper resevoir. The cavity also protects the switch from water and other contaminents. The other side of the switch is grounded.

 

[AVTekk]

Now all the wiring is done, test it out and make sure everything works. Its on to body work.

Im using filler plates from Suicidedoors.com, but they come flat, and the door is curved. To save myself a bit of bondo, Ill hit them wit a hammer and dolly to get a slight roundness to better fit the panel.

 

[AVTekk]

You want them to be as even as the door skin as possible, so use magnets to hold the filler plate up to the edge. This also saves you a hand from holding them.

 

[AVTekk]

Begin tacking the panel, using as little heat as possible, and making the next tack as far away from the last as possible, ie tack it on the left, then on the right, then maybe the top, then bottom, ect.. I use an air nozzle to cool the weld after its made to keep the heat down.

 

[AVTekk]

Finish tacking all the way around, keeping the heat very low, until you have a constant bead or very little spaces between tacks. Then grind it down, but take it easy with very little pressure or the heat from the grinder will warp the hell out of the panel.

I didnt mention it before, but you want to keep all the surrounding areas masked off because the sparks will pit the glass and mess up the paint. I also like to do the work with the door open and a piece of wood wedged behind it so I dont have to be concerned with messing up the paint on the cab.

 

[AVTekk]

Once the grinding is done, slap some bondo on there and let it dry. I kinda went overboard with it here haha but I hate bondo. Its ok because I have a body file or 'cheesegrater' that will knock that down in seconds.

 

[AVTekk]

Im not going to go thru all the sanding and work getting the area straight, because thats commonplace. You want to keep checking the area when youre sanding with a straight edge to find any high or low spots, and sand or fill as needed.

Heres the panel after I hit it with the DA and 60 grit paper. Its ready for blocking and final prep which will be done at a later time..