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Disturbed Image Trucks
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6,636 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
With the increasing amount of questions that i am having, i have decided to write a thread on how i developed my sway bar system.
About 6 months ago i was toying around with the idea of running a zq8 sway bar on my truck.

Specs:
RE7 bags
Stock upper SD cups
SD upper and lower control arms
Layin skid plate hard on 255/30 22" tires

At that time I had never heard of seen anyone run a sway bar on a truck with 22's. I felt the need to run a simple FB setup and wanted a sway bar badly. Then Layinbody31 shot me the idea of running 03 f150 ball joint end links!

Here is how i got mine...

i got mine from partsamerica.com for a ford f150 03-04

McQuay-Norris Front Suspension Sway Bar Repair Kit

Part Number: SL466

these are not available in stores! only online!

http://www.partsamerica.com:80/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=MCQ&MfrPartNumber=SL466&PartType=78&PTSet=A

It took me about a month to get them (back order)


I first started by bolting the top part of the end link to the sway bar (fits perfectly on the sway bar)

Then i checked how much i would have to notch the frame in relation to where lower end link would connect to the LCA.

Then I made some tabs out of 1/4" steel plate...



I felt it was necessary to run two tabs per side because of the way that the shaft on the end link was designed. The end link is tapered like your normal ballpoint. All I did was drilled out the holes in the tabs bigger on one side with a uni-bit until it fit good, but the tab didn't rub against the joint. This is important because if the holes are too big there will be heavy vibration causing problems down the road.

All I did was tacked the tabs on the arm where I would be able to go completely through the suspension's travel and not bind of hit anything. I only did one side at a time. If you plan to run smaller wheels I'm sure you can mount the tabs closer to the inside of the control arm.

Here are some mock up pics.

Notice how close the swaybar comes to the spindles steering arm when the truck is laid out! this is almost a good thing so that i can't steer and hit the fenders.


To insure that the sway bar would work properly i tacked the tabs in when the truck was laid out. I made sure that i could raise and lower the truck before starting on the other side. Also note that i used some washers and spacers to insure that the sway bar would not hit the frame and so that the tabs would be straight when i welded them.

Now note that when the truck is aired up, the sway bar appears to be almost in a stock location.



Finished pics...




the notch: (note that these pics were taken with the truck only laid on 27” stock tires and yes i know there is a snot lookin weld sorry i screwed up there and melted through the 3/16" plate)

 
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1,284 Posts
damn man good write up!!! looks good
 

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Canyon Carver
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2,853 Posts
I need an explantion of the physics behind this. Do the balljoints eliminate bind completly or do they just delay the bind or do they bind at ride height?
 

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Disturbed Image Trucks
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6,636 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
you might still have to cut into the frame because of your tire rods. i understand that the lower arm is the same as your truck on 20's but there is no way your tie rod is. you can see in my pics that there is now way i could have avoided notching into the frame. the sway bar almost hits the tie rods when the truck lays out.
 

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SK Whut ?
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1,025 Posts
i really like this idea and i will be doing this using my stock lca's, is there any measurements i should be aware of before welding the tabs to the lca ?

I am thinking of setting the rod to be perfectly verticlal or tipped back just a tad when at ride height... ?

your thoughts and opinions are more than welcome.


first i have to figure out what to do with the drivers side swaybar clamp, while hitting sides with a zq8 bar one of the bolts stripped all the threads out of the hole and now there is no forward bolt, gotta weld a stud to the frame ?
 
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