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· Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Rough Draft.


It's pretty simple.


Don't buy cheap rotor/pads, spend a little bit more than cheapest. Search around for member's feedback/review on variety of rotor/pads.


Any bearings will do, popular choice would be Timken.

Brake cleaner, basic tools, monkey wrench, you'll need Allan wrench or allan socket, size 3/8. Latex gloves, wheel bearing grease, shop towels/paper towels, cotter pin, c-clamp or disc spreader.

You'll will be able work faster if you haven't driven the truck for while so brake will be cooler.
Loosen lug nuts a bit.

Jack front Right or Left side up then either put jackstand on frame or lca.

Remove wheel.

Loosen caliper bolts.

Now you can mount caliper onto uca, get tall bucket, zip ties, wire hanger, anything to hold caliper securely.

Pads may/may not fall off, most of time they do but sometime they stay stuck, remove those.

Remove wheel bearing cap.

Remove cotter pin.

Remove wheel bearing nut.

Remove rotor.

Remove brake cap.

C-clamp/disc spreader on piston all the way in.

New rotor, try not to touch the surface as much even though you'll clean it up with brake cleaner.

Google/youtube videos for how to pack wheel bearing properly.

Grease up the bearings(do all at once but be sure keep them away from dirt, oil, other grease).

Install bearing then seal(look at old rotor so you can see which way it goes in properly) use small hammer and evenly tap it in til it flat with surface.

Grease spindle shaft.

Install rotor, install bearing, tighten wheel bearing.

Now when you tighten wheel bearing, you spin the rotor, you want it be able keep free spinning and once it slows down a lot, you loosen a bit, spin the rotor so it still free spin. Then that's where you stop, tighten a WEEE bit or slight hand tight, put cotter pin in.

Now if pin isn't close to hole, then you can loosen a bit to hole.

Reverse procedure.

Before you start driving, you'll need to pump brake several times to get piston pressing pads against rotor firmly otherwise if you started driving without pumping it will be loose and takes couple pumps before you can get full braking effect.

I'll have to find pics or make another ones.
 

· 92 Iron Duke
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You should also add that you should pump the brakes before you drive the truck. I forgot to do that on my camaro and almost went through the garage. Very good info for first time brake/bearing jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You should also add that you should pump the brakes before you drive the truck. I forgot to do that on my camaro and almost went through the garage. Very good info for first time brake/bearing jobs.
I remember that :haha: I can't believe I didn't add that but thanks for heads up! It's updated.
 
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gotta be high temp wheel bearing grease too cuz they're disc brakes, clean or replace caliper slide pins and lube em with sil-glide or equivalent and sil-glide the ends of the brake pads where they slide on the caliper mounts. finally,inspect the rubber boots for damage that the slide pins go thru and replace if needed. i think thats all, sorry for goin on and on but i just did brakes all the way around 4 full sizes at work today so yeah lol
 

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Rather than start a new thread, since there is so much experience here on brakes, I would just like to pose a question and read the feedback.
2003 Extreme running Vette 18's and 19's and the front rotors look like they should be on a KIA, want something bigger than the Vette rear rotors, at least! BUT, I don't want to spend "2 large" to do it! Any ideas?
 

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I attempted this and I am a mechanic (retired) and my caliper bolts are stuck like you wouldn't believe. I tried heat and vice grips and these bolts are stuck but good. I really don't want to cut the bolts as that would mean I will have to replace the calipers too.
 

· Fashion Bug !!!
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I attempted this and I am a mechanic (retired) and my caliper bolts are stuck like you wouldn't believe. I tried heat and vice grips and these bolts are stuck but good. I really don't want to cut the bolts as that would mean I will have to replace the calipers too.
Does yours have the 18mm bolts? If so, try putting a forged 6pt wrench on the bolt and whack it with a hammer.
 
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This is my first post so I should probably introduce myself elsewhere, but I first want to thank the OP for creating this thread. I've never done a brake job on a vehicle before, but this thread (along with a few other brake threads I found on S10forum.com) gave me the courage to tackle my own trucks front brakes for the first time. It went flawlessly.

Thank you, all.
 

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what size of allen to use ??? t45 t50 t55 ??? i need to go buy it and dont want to do the trip twice to the store...you all say 3/8 but thats only the size of the ratchet not the allen
 
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