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Thanks to all of you who have provided a lot of great information.

My OEM alternator kicked the bucket at 160k miles. I went to O'Rielly auto parts to get a remanufactured Ultima stock alternator.

Well after a few days, i noticed these voltage drops while coming to a stop. usually happened more at night with the headlights on, heater running, clutch in, and braking at the same time. It would drop from 14.5 down to like 10 or 11 volts. My lights and everything dimmed.

After thinking the issue was the new alternator, I returned it and got another one. Same issue came up again. Finally i convinced them to exchange for a NEW one..... Same thing again and that was as of last night.

Finally I found this thread this morning and swapped it out for a new AD244 for an 2002 Tahoe. it was easy to swap in and got a longer belt.

So far so good and I only had one voltage drop tonight.... It only happened after running the blower motor....

It's got me thinking that something is going on in the electrical system.
 

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I Rather Be Wheelin'
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That's sick, wish I had the extra money. I've killed my battery while winching with the truck idling to the point where the motor died. And I have an AD244!
 

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Jimmyfied
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Yes I would say so you will not see the full benefit of the upgrade what accessories are you running what size are you going to. And how long u waiting for the big three. I had no choice on mine because mine is a 320 amp Max and over 250 amp at idle with more accessories than you can count and in running 2/0 cable
 

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I Rather Be Wheelin'
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Anyone replace their A/C pump with an alternator on a 1st gen 4.3? I'm thinking about doing this for my plow truck. Every time I move the blade too much, all the lights dim and if I don't give it throttle the truck will stall. I don't need A/C in a plow truck, and I'm thinking of hooking up the plow and lights to it's own electrical system (similar to what I had in my truck before the engine swap)
 

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Well I spent several days researching alternator upgrades for my son's 1986 s10 4x4 2.8l v6. I read through this entire thread and several others. I never saw a complete write up on the older v6 engines or even one that said it was complete. Well I did it and thought I would show how so others will know how to do it.


Let me say I don't think this is as straight forward as some of the other swaps, but is easily doable.

I used a 2003 Cadillac escalade as my source to acquire a suitable donor alternator from a local junkyard. Cost me $50 plus tax. From this point on it will be referred to as "the new alternator"

First pull the old alternator. If you don't know how to do this without pics and a detailed explanation STOP, shut your hood and take it to a mechanic. :) From this point on this will be referred to as "the old alternator".

The adjuster bracket is just in the way so take it off, 2 bolts.

Here it is on the ground.



Now the pulley on the new alternator and the old alternator were different, no problem. Pull the single nut off the shaft of each alternator, the old alternator also had a small spacer behind the pulley. You will need this unless you would like to destroy the housing with the pulley, that is entirely up to you I guess.

Pulleys




See that small spacer on the shaft next to the fan? Pull that off.




Put it on the new alternator.




Install pulley and tighten nut.




Now the new alternator has 2 mounting bosses(for lack of a better term) that are the same. One fits right where you pulled the old alternator from. Now this is where things get a little more difficult, you need to build some sort of tensioner bracket, I played with a few different ideas but ended up with this.




I had a couple of small rod ends laying around from some other bright idea I had at one point in time or another. Now lacking much in the way of local places to get goofy hardware I had to come up with something. One of my rod ends was left hand threads and the other was right, I got matching nuts and a small steel spacer, welded the three together and ended up with an assembly I could turn with a wrench to loosen or tighten the alternator.

I ended up using the more right(remember it's always from the drivers view) bolt hole that was originally used for the stock tensioner bracket.



There are probably dozens of ways a person could build a tensioner, this is just what I came up with.

Now the real fun part was finding a belt that would work. I put the stock belt back on and measured how much longer it needed to be and based on the stock 52" belt length I bought a couple I thought would be close. They weren't, bought a couple more, still way off. That's when I figured out the pulley had been pulled off the air pump and so the belt I was referencing was not the stock length. So I took a piece of wire wrapped it around the pulleys and measured it and ordered the closest belt I could find. This is the thing that will vary depending on how you build your tensioner. My belt is a little tight so I acquired the parts to build a little bit shorter tensioner, the next size up belt put the alternator to far out for my liking.

Now how to wire this bad boy up.

My old alternator had three wires going to it. A small red wire, about 6-8 awg I would say, that went to the largish lug on the back of the alternator. One large 0/1 awg wire that went to the same lug on the alternator. And one brown wire that went into the connector on the side of the alternator.

Old plug







Now that wont just plug into the new alternator no matter how big your hammer is. So I went to the junkyard and found a couple of 2nd gen blazers and snipped the alternator connectors off of them.






The brown wire goes to the L terminal on the new plug/alternator. One of the big things I could never figure out was if I needed to wire in a resistor, it seemed if you had a warning lamp you would be fine without one. I did not want to burn up the new alternator so I went to radio shack and picked up a pack of 330-ohm 1/2 watt carbon film resistors. They were about $1.5 for a five pack, and installed one about 6" from the plug, just to be safe. Maybe some day when I am ready to beef this thing up a little I might pull the resistor out and see if it burns up the alternator.

Moment of truth, fire her up, bam 14.4 volts. I still get a little fluctuation in the volt gauge but not near as much as with the old cs series alternator. I want to try running a sense wire from the S terminal of the alternator to the junction block on the firewall and see if that will help. I've heard having a sense wire is better than using the internal sense of the alternator. I had planned to do it originally, that is why I clipped to alternator harnesses from the junkyard, I was going to build one with two wires coming out of it, one in the L and one in the S position. But alas the general outsmarted me, there are only "holes" in the two connectors I got in the L position, the rest are "dummy" holes with plastic still there. I assume this is to keep dirt, water and crud out of the connectors. I could not bring myself to order the $30 dollar connector from napa that had 4 wires coming off it, or the one from painless that has been linked in this thread. Someday I will worry about it but it's running and that's what I need right now.
 

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I ordered the Powermaster model 48233. Website says its a 150 amp. The little card that showed the test said 100 amps at idle, 165 at peak.

Its a cs130, so hopefully it will be up to snuff. I have the Taurus E fan, 275w amp and will be adding dual PIAA 85w fogs. I'm fairly confident this will do what I need it to
 

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does anyone know if the ad244 will bolt up to a 91 s10 with the 2.5
 

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Aquatic Goat Farmer
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I made a video of my many year old ad244/dr44g alt swap upgrade. I've actually had 2 installed but am having belt stretch issues:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRy9gM7DAkg

This is on a 4.3 cpi which is a lot easier than the 4cyl.
 

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