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Discussion Starter #1
I managed to break the outer shells on one of the connectors on Richard's transmission months back when I pulled his engine and transmission. The electrical connections on the transmission were really, really stuck.

What do you guys use to loosen them up. I'm not sure if PB Blaster or a similar penetrating oil would damage the plastic or the rubber seals in the weather pack connectors. Would I be better to use a silicone based spray lube? I wasn't sure if that would "penetrate" into the stuck connections.

I'll be off to the yard this weekend or early next week to try to pick up a pigtail for the connector I broke. I'm hoping I can just push the pins out (I have the pin tools for the weatherpack connectors) and install the connector frame pieces on the wires on Richard's harness now. I'm pretty sure that what I find at the yard will be about as seized up as what was on Richard's transmission, and I'll need to pull them apart without damaging the connector shell parts that I'm trying to reuse. So I'll need to bring some appropriate spray lube to the yard and lube a few of them up while I walk around, then try to grab one without damaging it. I'm just not sure what will be the best to free them up without damaging the plastic outer shells or the rubber seals.

Or are the connectors available as "kits"? Could I just get new parts for this and push the pins on the existing harness into a new connector with fresh rubber seals?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hmmmmm, I hadn't considered heat because plastic. But maybe I should try it.

Now, if I could find a heat gun that fits my cordless tools battery packs. Or just us a cigarette lighter at the parts yard as a "mini-torch."
 

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You might get away with a small propane torch if you're SUPER careful. It really doesn't take much heat. On a hot day with a warm transmission, they will almost come apart without a struggle.

Very low flame, like a bic lighter, and keep the heat moving. That's what I would try.

Or...

Most of the time when I'm pulling a trans, I will pull the range switch off the trans and leave it with the vehicle still plugged in.

In your case, depending on the cost of the switch, it might be worth cutting the plug pigtails and pulling the switch with plugs. Maybe the junkyard will let you return the switch after safely extracting the plugs in the comfort of your own garage.

There's a couple different ways to skin that cat.
 

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Most of the time when I'm pulling a trans, I will pull the range switch off the trans and leave it with the vehicle still plugged in.

In your case, depending on the cost of the switch, it might be worth cutting the plug pigtails and pulling the switch with plugs. Maybe the junkyard will let you return the switch after safely extracting the plugs in the comfort of your own garage.
This would be my suggestion too. It's a heat activated resin. The connectors are designed to be "stuck" in there from the factory for whatever reason GM had.
 

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thin bladed putty knife and a set of probe/picks and patience- no torch under a boneyard beast- you don't know what has been split where you are laying.PB is ok as long as you clean it with contact cleaner later.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm getting heat, gentle heat, but heat nonetheless as the #1 suggestion.

The plan now is to grab an entire switch with the pigtails attached at a pull-it-yourself yard, work it with heat when I get it home, and use the connector pieces to reassemble the one on the truck now. I've got the "pin pusher" tools and everything I need to disassemble the connectors.
 

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A heat gun won't have to be so gentle with, but definitely be careful with open flames melting the plastic to start with.
 
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