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Posting From My iPhone 4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Due to the popularity of the ad244 on our early model trucks, I have decided to do a write up on how I accomplished mine with the help of my homie Kevin and of course everyone that helped me out in the other ad244 thread (ie. B_Rich, neo, chrisinvt, etc).

This was done on the truck in my sig (1989 s10 4x4 4.3L) and was more or less a breeze to complete. Since we are working on the electrical components of our truck make sure to disconnect the ground t the battery and wet aside the wires.

Now since I had a friend help me I did not take the time to take pictures of every step while it was actually being done so these pictures are with the ad244 already installed. But I will make it worth your while with the pictures I have included.

Alrighty, let's get started shall we??

Things you will need:
- AD244 (duhh :) )
- CS130D pigtail harness from Painless
- About a 1-1.5" longer belt
- Socket set
- A single Grade 8 1/4" bolt with some lock washers and regular washers
- Electrical tape
- Hammer
- Long flat head screwdriver
- A variety pack of heat shrink tubing (opt.)
- Heat gun (opt.)

***(I just went with heat shrink tubing because i walked by it in home depot. Not required and electrical tape will do just fine if you dont already have it)***


Now that we have all of our tools together and ground disconnected, start by easing the tension off of the belt with the help of a 1/2" drive socket and a 5/8 socket and proceed to unwrap the belt off of the pulleys :






Now that the belt is off of the pulleys, we will be taking out the old alternator. Start by disconnecting the pigtail harness and all the wires at the back post:






Next, we will be unbolting the alternator from the mounting bracket. There are 3 screws holding the alternator in. As you can see in the picture of the back one I had to cut the back mounting hole as it interfered with the regulator on the back of the ad244. Bolt sizes are as followed - the one in the back is a 13mm, the one closest to the TBI is 13mm, and the one on the right is a 15mm:








After the old alternator is removed, whip out the hammer and flat head screwdriver and hammer the bushing on the back of the alternator bracket towards the firewall. It's in between the back part of the alt and the bracket where the space is. This may or may not come stock but it's in the truck so I'm showing ya :). This will make it so you do not have to spend hours and hours filing the bracket down:




Now it's time to mount the that brand new AD244 alternator of yours. It may take a little of finessing but once you slide it onto the bracket, you can loosely screw in the bolt on the right side. Do not tighten it yet as we will need a little wiggle room. Slide your Grade 8 1/4" bolt complete with lock washers and all into the mounting hole closest to the TBI. Now if you got a long one like I did, once you get it all tightened up, I suggest you get some bolt cutters and cut some of the excess bolt off the back. Proceed to tighten both bolts until you can't tighten them anymore:




Once tightened, grab the alternator with both hands and try to rock it back and forth and see if it budges. If it does check your bolts and tighten if needed. If it doesn't budge then u are golden :):




Now here comes the fun part. The wiring. Start off by cutting the old pigtail harness off making sure to mark the terminals that the wires came from. Mine was S, F, L, P:




Next we will be connecting the Painless CS130D harness with the included resistor. The supplied resistor posts are a little long so I cut them about halfway on both sides. Now if your factory pigtail is like mine you will have a gray wire (L terminal) and a pink/black wire (F terminal):




Start by stripping the wires on the factory pigtail and sliding a piece of heat shrink tubing down both the wires. Then we will be wrapping the Gray wire ( L Terminal) around one end of the resistor. Slide the heat shrink tubing towards the resistor and shoot it with the heat gun


Next, we will connect the new pigtail harness to the old wiring. Connect the gray wire from the new pigtail to the other end of the resistor making sure to slide a piece of heat shrink tubing down the wire. Basically the same way we did it on the other end. Heat it with a heat gun and connect the pink/black wire on the pigtail to the pink/black wire on the factory wiring using the heat shrink tubing. (since this is already done I will be drawing what I'm talking about):


Resistor on "L" Terminal:





Now that your new pigtail harness is done plug it up to the alternator along with the back post wires. The same way they were on the old alternator:






Proceed to wrap the new belt around the pulleys. Now as far as the belt size goes, the factory belt on my truck was 5060955. I picked up a 5060980 and that fit better than the other belt I got which was a 5060975. Not sure why but oh well. Here is a diagram of the belt routing:





Once the belt is on and the belt tension is at a reasonable level, double check all of your connections and wrap with electrical tape as needed to further weatherproof:




After you double check all of your connections, take a minute to make sure the newly installed belt is seated properly on all pulleys and is tight but not too tight. To give you a example you should be able to pull on it a little bit while installed. If it is too tight or too loose then go get the necessary belt and reinstall:




Hook back up your Ground wires and if you have not done this already do the Big Three as the stock wiring will not be sufficient on it's on to handle the new alternator. This where I put mine:

Positive Battery To Alt Post:


Negative Battery To Ground:


Battery Negative To Frame:



Last thing to do is crank your dime up and look for any signs of problems under the hood such as belt whipping or the like. If no signs of problems occur, turn on all your lights, heater, hazards, and crank that system (if u got it) and be amazed by this 18 pound block of metal and wires ( the alternator for you quick ones :) ):

Video 1
Video 2



And that's pretty much it guys. With my installation it fixed the dimming of the headlights although my dash still dims when my system thumps. Also during idle my engine would hesitate and stumble like it was going to fall on it's face and since I put the AD244 in, the idle has evened out a lot and overall it runs smoother. Got it tested at advance auto parts and the voltage was about 14.5 with nothing on and about 14.25 with lights, heater on high, and radio on. If that's not amazing idk what is haha.


I hope everyone has understood my how-to. This is my first one so give me a little credit. Next time I write up a how-to if there will be a next time, I will try and find my digital camera and take pictures as I go along.


I would also like to let everyone know that if anyone has any questions PLEASE don't hesitate to ask me. Hell even text me if you need a quick response!! @ 631-946-1156.


Thanks for reading guys! Hope this helps!!
-Billy





Also heres a pick of what a truck looks like after mudding in 2 wheel drive everyday. And no its not getting a car wash anytime soon. Not realy mudding but my driveway is a quarter mile of straight mud lol:






Thanks again guys!
 

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Posting From My iPhone 4
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well you could definitely use one from the junkyard although you will have to purchase a resistor separately. The only reason I purchased the one from painless was because there isnt really a j/y close by me.

The resistor specs are: 82 ohm 5-watt. Can probably be purchased at radioshack for like 2 bux.

Glad you like the how-to. Hopefully this will help a vast majority of people out with this upgrade. Possibly a sticky maybe?
 

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Posting From My iPhone 4
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Zr2USA = B_Rich
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Looks like that would be just fine. Although I'm not sure what the "5%" is for??
5% is the tolerance of the resistor. Lets say you have a 100ohm resistor, with a 5% tolerance. That means that the actual resistance of that resistor would be between 95ohms and 105ohms.

I haven't read the entire write up, but it looks good! Nicely done!
 

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Posting From My iPhone 4
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wish I could update the OP with this info but oh well. And yes the harness does come with the correct resistor for our setup.

I got mine from Summit but you can also get it from the painless website or other online stores I'm sure.

Here is the link to summit: Summit Part# PRF-30705



5% is the tolerance of the resistor. Lets say you have a 100ohm resistor, with a 5% tolerance. That means that the actual resistance of that resistor would be between 95ohms and 105ohms.

I haven't read the entire write up, but it looks good! Nicely done!
Oooohhhhh I gotcha. Thats what I was thinking but wasn't 100% on it.

To ridinlow- that eBay link will work just fine then if you prefer to get it from eBay and the harness from the j/y. Much cheaper that way but it's completely up to you :)
 
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