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Maybe later.
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Nice. Will do soon, but can this be done for the aux button on the deck? This set up has to have a cd running, right?
The 'AUX' button in the deck is actually the same hardware button as the CD button, you just keep pressing it until you get to from CD to 'AUX', just like the AM/FM button. That 'AUX' button can only be used by a GM auxiliary cassette or CD player however... (They go in the console/lower dash on some S-series trucks/full sizes)

But basically, any CD will do. Just insert it, make sure its not on RDM (random), and it will just play without audio while you have your AUX cable playing. There is no audio leakage once both ends of the AUX cable are connected.
 

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Nice mod, but why put the connector in the frontpanel..?
I wired it out the back and out of sight. See my vid here:
 

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minitruck, did you use an interface with yours? I noticed that the only plug you have is the 30 pin and I know that there are "black boxes" that interface with the iPod directly rather than use a 3.5mm minijack.
 

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minitruck, did you use an interface with yours? I noticed that the only plug you have is the 30 pin and I know that there are "black boxes" that interface with the iPod directly rather than use a 3.5mm minijack.
Nope, no interface! Just hard wired into the unit.
I can't use the tape deck, but I don't care because I said goodbye to tapes about 15 years ago :).
The CrO2 button is now acting as switch to basically active the tape deck. But the audio from the iPod is fed into the tape deck signal leads. The iPod is also charged at the same time and the line out is used, that's why the volume control on the iPod doesn't work when it's connected to the headunit. So when I switch between radio or iPod the volume is always (about) the same.
But instead of the 30pin connector a 3.5 jack could be used too, all you need is left, right and audio ground. And this 3.5 or cinch would be wired out the back too, instead of the front panel. That way you can create an input in the glove box or overhead console...
 

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I was wondering how you did that, so basically you just got the pin out from the 30 pin connector and wired them into the radio where you need them for the power, and audio feeds.
 

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I was wondering how you did that, so basically you just got the pin out from the 30 pin connector and wired them into the radio where you need them for the power, and audio feeds.
I used this thread for inspiration
Basically all you need to do is wire your audio signals from the iPod to your tape deck:
iPod = tape deck
left = orange
right = white
signal ground = black

I used the CrO2 button to connect the yellow wire to ground to enable tape mode, which is now AUX mode.

Then pick up ground from anywhere in the radio or the chassis of the radio and power from before or after the radio's power switch.
Wiring of the 30 pin connector can be found here, but I just bought a prewired cable from eBay and cut of the audio and USB plug.
 

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Maybe later.
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Not everyone has iPods....

However I like your idea. And yes, it can be run out the back as I mentioned in the original post but I like the fact that I can put the wire away when not in use and still have an ashtray that I never use.

I don't know, I can't explain my logic. I just like having a Front Aux. Looks more factory that way I guess.
 

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Ok I have a problem with this mod, firsr of all it works perfect and fit me perfect because I don't like the look of aftermarket decks but when I'm using it while my phone is charging it makes a whining noise that gets louder as my rpms go up its odd anyone know why?
 

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Ok I have a problem with this mod, firsr of all it works perfect and fit me perfect because I don't like the look of aftermarket decks but when I'm using it while my phone is charging it makes a whining noise that gets louder as my rpms go up its odd anyone know why?
Buy a PAC ground loop isolator, it eliminates the hum while charging. It's a small black box, with a female headphone jack, and a male headphone jack that installs in-line with the cable.
 

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Can someone verify, the ONLY connections to the truck/radio, is the left and right channel? I plan on doing this, but don't have a power supply to work with, and have disabled the Theftlock on my 98 blazer.
 

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If someone doesn't mind, i'm willing to give up the tape player (below my radio in my 1998 blazer, on the floor) functionality, since I never use it. Can I simply connect to the terminals that are marked "left and right remote radio signal"?

I'm not entirely sure, without removing the tape player, that "Remote Audio Player" is referring to the tape player's wiring harness? (Picture below)


If that's what it does refer to, then this would be easier in my case.

If this won't work, should I just pickup the left/front, right/front, left/rear, and right/rear wires and attach to the two harnesses in these two diagrams, which I assume is exactly how the OP did it.

Connector C1

Connector C2


The one thing I am confused about if the tape player idea doesn't work, with connector C1 there's :

GRY - Audio Signal - Left Front
TAN - Audio Signal - Left Front (w/amp)
TAN - Audio Signal Left - Front

And

DK GRN - Audio Signal - Right Front
LT GRN - Audio Signal - Right Front (w/amp)
LT GRN - Audio Signal Right - Front

And with Connector C2, I would simply use the Dark Blue and Brown wires for each channel.

Thanks for the help, I just need some clarification.
 

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I guess I figured out why the tape player aux in won't work, since you'll need a blank tape inside for the radio to be able to be switched to the aux/tape mode.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Take it apart and find out. If it has a ribbon cable like pictured idk why not!
 

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Hey sorry to resurrect an old thread for my first post, but I was wanting to do this mod to my stereo and I noticed the first image is broken. Is there any way you can reupload that? Would really appreciate it.
 

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does it work for the RDS radio?

Mine has the built in tape deck and I use a tape adapter to play my ipod :/

since this was bumped...can it be used with this style deck?
 

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If you have a Radio with an Aux/CD button on its faceplate; your radio has an input for a second unit / Aux (aka "slave"), be it a cd changer, satellite radio or cassette player. You can buy an input device that is plug and play for the most part with the factory harness. This opening up a case is kinda silly unless you have no secondary source capability on your head unit. Or as someone eluded to, but I did not read it carefully. Figure out the wiring code of the harness and use the aux input externally. Search aux input GM on Amazon or Ebay, there are two makers and three models I know of....I looked at those diagrams more closely they have no information of use, except perhaps the first diagram. Is the first diagram external or internal ?
 

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performed the fix today to my 2001 Silverado's radio, and once I got the wiring right, it worked perfect. I bought the same RadioShack 274-0246 Switched 1/8” Audio Port piece here in Canada, and it's sold by RS's new owner, The Source with the same #. And just so no one misses it for future readers, I believe there's a flaw in the above hand drawn wiring diagram. Before connecting the AP, I tested all the 5 connections with an RCA plug in and out, and the live 2 with the plug in were 2 and 5, NOT 2 and 4 as shown in the wiring diagram, which the schematic of the AP also shows once you study it, and as well the written out part is right, so just a mistake in the drawing.



Radioshack Wiring Diagram

Pin 1 - Ground - connect to the stereo chassis
Pin 2 - Left Channel - wire from CD connector on main circuit board
Pin 3 - Left Channel - wire coming from CD player module
Pin 4 - Right Channel - wire coming from CD player module
Pin 5 - Right Channel - wire from CD connector on main circuit board

And just for a second option, I also found in other tutorials for putting the AP in the upper Left-hand corner (facing the front plate) above the volume knob, right up against the CD slot...it fit perfectly and no holes to drill once a bit of the plate was easily removed and a small piece of the metal was removed from the chassis at the spot of the AP. Pressure from the space itself keeps the AP in place and no other means needed to secure it in place.

THANKS again for a GREAT Tutorial!!!!
 
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