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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A few months back I got to work on a local forum members truck, and I was able to snap a few pics while doing it. He supplied the alarm, (Autopage RS900), and I did the install of that unit, along with 2 doorlock actuators. The truck is a pretty much a base model 98+, which came with a manual tranny. The Autopage RS900 is a full featured LCD 2 way alarm/remote start system, but seeing that the truck was a manual, we agreed on not using the remote start feature of the alarm system. Yes it can be done, and yes I have done them, but seeing this is just a summer vehicle for him, the remote start wasnt a feature that he was after anyways.

Disclaimer - This is my method of installing alarms and remote starters. By no means do i mean this is the end all be all method, or that you have to do it the way I've shown. I've talked to multiple people on the forum via PM, E-mail, or even over the phone helping them with questions on installing these, so this is more of a reference than anything. If you are attempting to install a alarm on your dime, MAKE SURE YOU TEST THE WIRES using a multimeter or computer safe test light, I personally like using a Power Probe 2, or my Bluepoint Pistol Grip Test Light, but for the most part, the majority of you will be using a multimeter. (DMM). Also, I tried to snap as many pics as I could, but there are some wires I missed. On with the install.......

Heres the wire info needed for 98+ s10's - Depending on how well equiped your truck is, and what system your installing, you might or might not need all of these wires.

12 Volts - Red - Ignition Harness
12 Volts - Red/White - Ignition Harness
Starter - Yellow - Ignition Harness
Ignition - Pink - Ignition Harness
2nd Ignition - White - Ignition Harness
Accessory - Orange - Ignition Harness
Power Lock - Lt. Blue (+) - BCM
Power Unlock - White (+) - BCM
Parking Lights - Brown (+) - BCM
Door Trigger - Tan/Drivers Door (-), Orange/Pass Door (-) - BCM
Factory Alarm Disarm - Lt. Green (-) - BCM
Tach - White or Purple/White (ac) - PCM or behind guage cluster
Brake - White (+) - Steering column


I started the install with doing the doorlocks. You will need to purchase 2 doorlock actuators, and 2 relays. I used DEI 524N doorlock actuators



Instead of using 2 seperate relays, I used a DEI 451m. The advantage of using the 451m is that its prewired, and uses micro relays so its more compact. The thick brown and white twisted wires will goto ground, the thick blue and green wires will goto your doorlock actuators, the thick purple and thin red wire will goto a 12 volt source to power the relays and actuators, and lastly, the thin blue and green wires will get connected to the lock and unlock output wires off the alarm brain.



Heres a pic of the doorpanel off, and the actuator mounted. Theres 2 things you want to look for when mounting these. First, make sure there is a opening in the back of the door panel to fit around the actuator (keep in mind you have to get the doorpanel back on the door with the actuator mounted on the door). Secondly, You need to align the actuator, and bend the connecting rod, so that is follows the same movement as the factory doorlock linkage. The spot were I mounted seems to work well for me on these trucks, but there are other places it could be mounted. This might get tricky, its alot of trial and error. After everything is mounted, extend your wiring, run it thru the door boots, and back over to the steering column area.



Next, we'll goto the BCM and locate the wires there. The BCM is located on top of the tranny hump, with the plugs facing the drivers side. You'll need to remove the plastic underdash to have good access to it. On this install, the only wires we're going to grab here are both door triggers, and parking lights.

This is the Brown parking light wire. It will read ground or open at rest, and read 12 volts when you turn the parking lights on.



Theres 2 door trigger wires in the truck. One for the drivers door, the other for the pass door. Do not use the wires directly at the pin switches on the sides of the dash, use the ones at the BCM. This is the Tan drivers door trigger. When the drivers door is open, this wire will see ground.



This is the Orange passenger door trigger. When the passenger door is open, this wire will see ground.



Theres alot of confusion about wiring these door triggers to the alarm. Seeing that there is 2 door triggers on the truck, and theres only one door trigger input on the alarm brain, you need to isolate the door triggers using diodes. 1 amp diodes are fine, they can be picked up at Radio Shack, or a local stereo shop. Your basically making a "Y". The two legs with the diodes attached will goto the two door triggers. The single leg will goto the negative door trigger wire on the alarm. Make sure all exposed wiring is covered in electrical tape or heat shrink.



Theres a few wires you need to run under the hood. Wire for the siren, Tach (if you grab the wire under the hood), and pin switch/ merc switch/ ball brearing switch to cover the hood off the alarm. You also might be running power wire for a amp. A good place to go thru the firewall is the antenna gromet, which is located on the passenger side. Pull back the carpet, and it looks like this.



Now we can move onto the ignition harness, located at the steering column. After the underdash is disassembled, this is what you'll be looking at.



Cut the wire ties, and pull back the mesh around the wires. You'll notice theres two groups of wires, along with wire in a yellow covering. DO NOT MESS WITH THE WIRES IN THE YELLOW COVERING. Those are your airbag wires. You can move the wire around, dont be scared to do that, just dont cut into it. The wires we're going to be working with are the ones im grabing.



These are your passlock wires. If your doing a remote starter in your truck, you may need to tap into these wires depending on which bypass you have choosen. Regardless, you will need to use a passlock bypass to do a remote starter in this truck.



This is the Red/White 12 volt wire. This wire will read 12 volts at all times.



This is the Red 12 volt wire. This will read 12 volts at all times....this does the same as the Red/White 12 volt wire.



This is the Orange Accessory wire. This will read 12 Volts when the key is on, and when the car is running. It will drop power when the car is cranked. This wire controls HVAC, Radio, ect.



This is the Pink First Ignition wire. This wire will read 12 Volts when the key is on, when the car is running, and when the car is being cranked.



This is the White Second Ignition wire. This wire will read 12 Volts when the key is on, when the car is running, and when the car is being cranked.



Because I got caught up in the install, I forgot to take a pic of the Yellow Starter wire. Its found in the same harness as these, but is smaller in size, about 18ga. This wire will read 12 volts when the car is being cranked, and thats it. You can also grab the White Brake wire at the steering column wiring. It should be located in the other group of wires. It will read 12 volts when the brake pedal is pressed.

After all of your wires are located, the alarm should be "Bench Prepped". What do I mean by this? When you buy the alarm, theres alot of wires you will not use. All of these extra wires should be cut, and taped up. The wires you will be using, should be neatly grouped together according to where they go in the car. When doing just remote start systems, I dont take the time to cover all of the wires with electrical tape, but when doing alarm systems I do. This alarm is burried deep into the dash, and every bit of wire was covered in electrical tape, black hockey tape, and black wire loom to make it look as factory as possible Heres a pic of the RS900 ready to go into the car.



The LED can be mounted anywhere the user wants. It should be in open view. The owner wanted it in the grill for the drivers dash speaker, so thats where it went.



The last thing I do is mount the shock sensor. Do not mount it on the firewall, or other structural part of the truck, it will not work correctly. It should be connected to a somewhat firm wire harness with zip ties. I personally like using the Ignition harness if I can....its doesnt make for the most stealth install, but is the most practicle. Heres the alarm finished up.



No matter what alarm system you use, your going to need to use these wires......So I hope this will be of help to the members on here. One topic I didnt touch was how to connect the alarm wires to the wires in the truck. I soldered every single wire in this install, but you can use 3m t-taps, the poke/wrap/tape method, or solder. Theres always going to be debate about which method is best, but it all comes down to using the method that works best for you. When done correctly, all 3 methods will work just fine. When I get a chance, I will update this thread w/ pics showing the 3 methods.

If theres any questions, post them up or get ahold of me. I'm not using this for advertising, but if there are members within driving distance of the Buffalo NY area I am more than willing to help out.
 

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drunk and bored
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Thanks guys, Hopefully this will be of help to members on here doing their own alarms.
nice write-up....is there anything you would edit?any changes?

let me know.....i plan on moving this to the 'how-to' section:)
 

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forum idiot
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:tup: for the how-to and a :tdown for the autopage...lol

na it looks clean..when i do a 98+ i remove the cluster and hide the brain up there...and...you stole my led placement...jerk

and a 451m? to lazy to wire your own relays?

lol


no man...good job!!

i did the samething once but i was too lazy to upload the pics and shit!!


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The other "BODY" man
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Pretty good.

For connections I solder everything, even if the connection gets wet and corrodes, it'll still make contact.

Those blue and red "t" taps or quick locks are ok,, but I've had some come loose and when you get a bunch of them together they take up a lot of room.

I cut a wire caseing off about 1 inch. Strip back the caseing on the wire to be attached. Wrap the wire around the other wire, solder, then black tape it with the good black tape, 3M stuff.

If I can and I have the room I'll cut the wire to be tapped into, strip back both ends, join in the wire I'm attaching, slip on some heat shrink onto the wire, solder and slip the heat shrink over the joint and shrink.
 

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Very easy and clear write up man, but what happens when you have a blazer with a factory key fob with the back hatch button? How do you tie the new alarm in with the factory setup along with keeping the back hatch mechanism on the new key fob.
 

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forum idiot
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you tie the second channel to that wire at the bcm..black wire at the purple plug
and as far as the stock door lock/unlock do you just tie in the new alarm with the stock? also, what alarm have you had the best experience with? i see you dont care too much for this one...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
:tup: for the how-to and a :tdown for the autopage...lol

na it looks clean..when i do a 98+ i remove the cluster and hide the brain up there...and...you stole my led placement...jerk

and a 451m? to lazy to wire your own relays?

lol


no man...good job!!

i did the samething once but i was too lazy to upload the pics and shit!!
I still got love for DEI, Autopage makes decent systems though. I was going to stick the brain behind the cluster, but couldnt find a good spot (Im sure I coulda got a DEI unit in there). I actually extended all the wiring and the unit is burried behind the HAVC controls, the only thing thats visable is the shock sensor. Thanks for the :tup:

Pretty good.

For connections I solder everything, even if the connection gets wet and corrodes, it'll still make contact.

Those blue and red "t" taps or quick locks are ok,, but I've had some come loose and when you get a bunch of them together they take up a lot of room.

I cut a wire caseing off about 1 inch. Strip back the caseing on the wire to be attached. Wrap the wire around the other wire, solder, then black tape it with the good black tape, 3M stuff.

If I can and I have the room I'll cut the wire to be tapped into, strip back both ends, join in the wire I'm attaching, slip on some heat shrink onto the wire, solder and slip the heat shrink over the joint and shrink.
Most stand alone remote starters and basic alarms I just t-tap. I have had a few problems with them, but not enough to prevent me from using them. I stick with 3m made ones, and when used correctly they do the job. I do agree that they do take up alot of room when bunched together, like the connections at the ignition wiring.

Higher end alarms, or high end alarm/starter combos I will solder everything and cover it with 3m Super 33+. The only thing I heatshrink are diodes and stuff like that. I will always solder all factory security connections, tach connections under the hood, and data connections at the diagnostic plug. I wish all of the work I did could be soldered and wrapped in heatshrink, but time is money - if people want a $99 alarm, thats what their getting. Im gonna take some more pics to add to this thread showing the different ways to connect the wires.


and as far as the stock door lock/unlock do you just tie in the new alarm with the stock? also, what alarm have you had the best experience with? i see you dont care too much for this one...
The new alarm will tap into the doorlock wires at the BCM. This truck didnt have factory doorlocks, so I point out what the factory doorlock wires look like. You will have no use for the factory keyfob, the keyfob on the new alarm will be able to do everything for you.

Theres alot of decent alarms out there. Just about everyone will say DEI is the best, they make Viper, Hornet, Python, Sidewinder, Clifford, Valet, Rattler, ect. Autopage and Compustar also make decent systems. Keep in mind the install is more important than the alarm system itself.
 

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Nice write-up. :tup:

I can tell youre an installer by the way you twist the wires. Only thing I did different for my alarm is I went to a white wire instead for the door trigger. And I cut the starter wire and installed a relay for extra security.

Somebody mentioned LED placement. I mounted mine on top of the instrument cluster panel. Ill have to take a pic of it, but its a good spot. I mounted the valet switch in the kick panel.

I have Code Alarm (pretty decent IMHO) and im finishing up the install as we speak.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Nice write-up. :tup:

I can tell youre an installer by the way you twist the wires. Only thing I did different for my alarm is I went to a white wire instead for the door trigger. And I cut the starter wire and installed a relay for extra security.

Somebody mentioned LED placement. I mounted mine on top of the instrument cluster panel. Ill have to take a pic of it, but its a good spot. I mounted the valet switch in the kick panel.

I have Code Alarm (pretty decent IMHO) and im finishing up the install as we speak.
This one has a starter kill relay also, I just got caught up when I was installing it and forgot to take pics.

Code has been hit and miss for me....the old stuff was good, the stuff that was out a few years ago was crap, but I heard they turned things around recently. Let us know how the install and product works out for you, good luck :tup:
 
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