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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can some one plz answer a question on a brake booster being bad I replaced it with a reman one ..I get hard pedal now when it's off but when i start it still soft pedal I'm thinking it's more of a Master cylinder and air and got new master on the way but few people say a booster can cause a soft pedal to it dose hold vacuum when I pull it off your here are coming out , but do get a Swiss kinda air sound when u when pressing on brakes but heard that's normal I thought when they go bad your get a hard pedal when it running or you here hissing sound when brakes are pressed and it run like crap which mine don't I'm just trying make sure for I bolt dash back together it's sounds ok kinda lost on still soft pedal after starting ,, but new master cylinder otw maybe some can tell me more thanks
 

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You need to:
[1] make sure the brakes have been bled properly and throughly
[2] after proper bleeding check the brake pedal travel distance (I think spec is something like 2.5" -- but not sure)

I've had this same "feeling" when changing out master's on S10/Sonoma's -- probably because I am making the mistake of comparing the pedal feel to other vehicles. Use a tape measure from a known point on the bottom of the steering wheel to the face of the pedal....then press the brake (engine runnning) and observe measurement. If I have spec above wrong I'm sure someone will correct me.
 

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Been there Done it
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You're right. Someone will correct you if you make a mistake on here. But if you think about it, it's probably best for all concerned to have errors pointed out. You'll find the more experienced guys will actually thank someone for helping set them straight. As for the guys with big egos...

1998+ don't travel as much. Especially the ones with the dual piston front calipers. They feel like a more modern car that you drive with your toes, not your whole leg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You need to:
[1] make sure the brakes have been bled properly and throughly
[2] after proper bleeding check the brake pedal travel distance (I think spec is something like 2.5" -- but not sure)

I've had this same "feeling" when changing out master's on S10/Sonoma's -- probably because I am making the mistake of comparing the pedal feel to other vehicles. Use a tape measure from a known pont on the bottom of the steering wheel to the face of the pedal....then press the brake (engine runnning) and observe measurement. If I have spec above wrong I'm sure someone will correct me.
Ok I sure will thanks so it don't sound like a bad booster then? From what I here is alot gms have soft pedal feeling anyways thanks
 

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2002 S10 2WD (4.3L, AT)
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My 2002 S10 4.3L had a brake booster go out.....it was obvious. Engine off -> firm pedal. Engine on -> goes to the floor and little, if any, braking capability. Job #1 is to ensure no air in the lines (i.e., bleed the brakes properly).
Let us know how it goes....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My 2002 S10 4.3L had a brake booster go out.....it was obvious. Engine off -> firm pedal. Engine on -> goes to the floor and little, if any, braking capability. Job #1 is to ensure no air in the lines (i.e., bleed the brakes properly).
Let us know how it goes....
Yea idk what going on I bleed and bleed these things and replaced the booster with a reman one but that don't mean it wasnt bad. Out of box .. I thought if pedal was firm with engine off meant the booster was holding vacuum and good with no hissing when holding brake down or hard pedal when engine on and mine doing what you say soon I start it like it lost all brakes I got it to stop but the pedal will still travel all most to floor no leaks no where replaced all brake lines to believe it's a cardone booster thing been night mare even bleed abs with scan tool and bench bleed master
 

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On the matter of this topic, what does it mean if the pedal feels "sticky" for part of its travel? Like you start to push the pedal and it feels good, then it feels like something needs lubricated for about half an inch and sort of sticks, then you push through that and the pedal feels good again. Could this be an indication of a failing booster or master?
 

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1987 S10 Tahoe 4X4 Extended Cab 2.8l V6
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My brother had air trapped in his ABS unit and he had to bleed air from there. This was a Silverado but it might be the same in your case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There are several good videos on YouTube on how to do a step-by-step evaluation of a brake booster in a systematic way. Easy to search for them.
Yea I have and most say if you turn it off pump pedal and gets hard and then soft when you start it means good,or after you turn it off wait few secs pull check valve and if I here air mean holding vacuum mine dose this ,but mine also when I start it press pedal you here like a swishing sound some videos say it's normal some says it's bad and my pedal is soft barely stops it's and the vids also says when brake booster go bad the pedal rock hard when you start it to another guy in here says his booster went bad and his pedal went soft no breaks like mine Ive watched a lot vids and there alot shows says mine look good and most have air or bad master cylinder and few days soft pedal can cause a soft pedal if no leaks or anything I done replaced my booster with a reman one so I'm lost why I try post here
 

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leave engine off.
pump brake pedal 10 times. It should be hard and only travel 2 inches or so and stop moving.
This is a mechanical bind of the brakes locking onto the brake drums and rotors.
keeping your foot on the pedal, with pressure (imiagine your on a hill and your car engine died, and you dont want it to roll) --then start the engine, your foot/brake pedal should move down further. Why? because the booster is boosting your legs force. that is is the easiest way to test a booster.
Now, the noise you are hearing, is either a leaking booster, or just the air rushing around the little gasket at the fire wall when you press the pedal. A super easy way, although could be dangerous, is have the engine running, push the pedal and spray some carb cleaner at the brake booster rod. If its leaking into the engine the RPMs will rise up due to the carb cleaner going into the engine.
But, literally it takes less than 3 minutes to test to see if a booster is working or not.
I would guess, you have air in the brake system.
Accept defeat, take the truck to the shop, have the system flushed and bled correctly.
Youre not only dealing with your life, but potentially others lives driving around you as well if you have a major brake failure. It is a huge risk, don't take it lightly.
 

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FLORIDA BUTCH
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I had my brake booster replaced by a Mechanic, and it was a nightmare. I found out that my 1988 had three different choices. Even the guys at the parts department didn't know that {big surprise}. The old one will have writing on it {Code}. I had to get one that had SVT. My brakes were soft and went all the way to the floor until I put the booster with the right code in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had my brake booster replaced by a Mechanic, and it was a nightmare. I found out that my 1988 had three different choices. Even the guys at the parts department didn't know that {big surprise}. The old one will have writing on it {Code}. I had to get one that had SVT. My brakes were soft and went all the way to the floor until I put the booster with the right code in it.
Damn bro someone else was telling me same make sure vin code was right for booster to idk my pedal hard with engine off not sure if yours was like that start it barley nothing ya guys parts store no jack cause first they gave me wrong master that goes on a different year and vin ,, and ya your another saying it can go to floor if it bad it been night mare with this thing ty for info
 

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my pedal hard with engine off
this is correct. does the pedal feel softer with engine running?

another saying it can go to floor if it bad
100% impossible. if thebooster is bad, then it is not providing any 'boost' in mechanical pressure.
if the engine is off, and the brake pedal is hard, turn the engine on and the pedal gets softer, booster is working. Literally takes 30 seconds to test a booster.
 

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some keep saying if a booster bad it can give you no breaks l
thos who say this are 100% wrong in every aspect of the word wrong.
Why would any automobile manufacture in the entire world would make a brake system, that, in the event of an engine stall, the bakes subsequently stop working? There is none. Well maybe Russia, but, thats another story.
You can remove your booster, and throw it in the trash, and your brakes will still work. All a booster does is make it so your 97 year old granny can comfortably push the brake pedal so she can drive to bingo. Anyone else, that is able bodied, does not need the extra comfort of a brake booster. This is why before the 1970s, no vehicle had power brakes.
Finally, take your vehicle to a shop and let them look at it. If you have an issue with your brakes, dont kill yrouself or anyone else, get it fixed ASAP
 

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2002 S10 2WD (4.3L, AT)
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You can remove your booster, and throw it in the trash, and your brakes will still work. All a booster does is make it so your 97 year old granny can comfortably push the brake pedal so she can drive to bingo. Anyone else, that is able bodied, does not need the extra comfort of a brake booster. This is why before the 1970s, no vehicle had power brakes.
This is too simplistic. There is a difference between a vehicle engineered to have braking without power assist and a vehicle engineered to have power assist and that system fails. For the latter case, Yes, the brakes still work...but very poorly. My booster failed, and it required pushing like hell to get it to stop.....not even remotely similar to an older vehicle without power assisted brakes.
 

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This is too simplistic. . My booster failed, and it required pushing like hell to get it to stop....
was your failed booster on an S10? because, you can, and many have, removed the booster, and used the same brake pedal. Master and had no issues. Since we are talking about the OPs s10, i like to give real world S10 answers
 
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