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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone! Got a quick question/wondering if anyone has experience with my particular situation.
To preface my question, I've been dealing with 0 compression on cylinder 1 and determined I had a burned exhaust valve. Finally got home from university this week and pulled the cylinder head. Side note, whoever decided to route the AC lines the way they did in the 94-97 years of this truck can kiss my ass. I see why they go over the fan shroud in the 98+ model years. Anyway, I got the cylinder head off and found my bad exhaust valve. And I also found the piston has very excessive side to side play. I have bad piston rings (only on that cylinder for some reason) and I'm not surprised because it's always burned oil, and has what sounds like piston slap (can now confirm it does have piston slap lol). But since I now know this, I know I'll have to pull the engine to re-ring the POS if I decide to. I'd consider putting it back together with a new valve, but I think the oil burning ultimately caused my valve to burn (carbon deposits around valve causing bad sealing). And I definitely am not interested in burning another valve and doing this again.

Part of me wants to quit on the truck because it's worn all around, got sloppy steering, bad driveshaft carrier bearing, no AC, etc. But I've become attached to the thing. And incredibly, the cylinder bores and other 3 cylinders look great. They were making 160, 150, 140 compression before my teardown and the factory crosshatch is healthy in the bores. I also have great oil pressure. So I might go all the way and do a half rebuild on the engine. I'd need an engine hoist but I think I have everything else I need aside from machine shop work.

Anyway, has anyone ever pulled the engine after the cylinder head has been removed? I know usually the engine comes in/out with the head attached and even has a lifting bracket on the rear of the head. But I figure there's not much left to disconnect with the head off, just not sure what else needs to come off and where to grab it from. Any advice? Thanks!
 

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time to get cereal
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On a 2.2l, you can get all of the bellhousing bolts from the top fairly easily even with the head on. The one by the starter is the only one I usually get from underneath when unbolting the starter and inspection cover.
 

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2003 Sonoma SLS ext. cab 4.3L / 4x4
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with the head off, the 4 cylinder weighs like 95 pounds. unhook the tranny, and physically grab it and pull it out. should be super easy
And then schedule an appointment with a good spinal realignment specialist and/ or a chiropractor! Or if lucky, just a bunch of ibuprofen, heat, and rest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Lol! Thanks for the advice y'all. I decided to go ahead and pull the engine. I removed everything from the block except motor mounts and bellhousing bolts. I'm waiting on my buddy to lend me his engine hoist for that. It may only weight a hundred or two, but I'm not in tip top shape 😆. I'm hoping I can get away with just putting rings, checking/replacing crank & rod bearings if necessary, and replacing seals. After all this engine essentially has 40,000 miles on it. Shouldn't be in need of rebuild.

Few side notes: I got the starter off from the bottom (what a difficult job! You'd practically have to remove the exhaust manifold and half the accessories to replace the starter if you weren't pulling the engine!). My inspection cover was missing altogether. Not cool...
I'm second owner, bought from an older gentleman who had it for 230k miles. He put in a replacement engine at 200,000 when timing chain blew on original. I wasn't sure if he put in a good used engine or reman until I got the engine tore this far down, but I found a plate on the block that says "remanufactured engine." So I'm kinda disappointed in the quality of this reman engine or the shop that put it in, because it only went 40,000 miles before the rings got cooked. You'd think these rings were out of a 300,000 mile engine with how much play they have. Seems like the rings were just low quality or something, because I believe the first owner was keeping up with maintenance and everything. The valves/upper cylinder head have 0 sludge, clean as can be. Cylinder walls shiny, no scoring except lightly on one cylinder from piston slap (as a result of junk rings, and the scores don't catch my fingernail). Great oil pressure, head gasket looks perfect, etc. Only thing I can figure is maybe to blame is the EGR valve which has been bad for a while and sometimes probably causing lean run. Still doesn't seem like it would destroy rings and rings only like that. Injectors seem fine, never seemed like they were misfiring/washing cylinders. So I'm kinda stumped as to what went wrong.
The shop that put this engine in also did less than perfect. There was a missing nut on the AC compressor mount bracket, one alternator bolt was missing, wiring was routed too close to exhaust in some places (melted loom) and not clipped into some mounts, etc.

Anyway just thought I'd update y'all. Thanks for the tips!
 

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time to get cereal
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I'll pick up a bare 2.2L block, but an assembled block, no way.

The starter shouldn't be too bad to remove, I don't take it out completely, just get it off the engine and let it hang.
 

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When I put my motor back in after rebuild, I believe I put the block back in without the head on. I didn't have a buddy to help me lower the motor in place so it was just easier so I didn't mess up any of the powdercoated block. Looks like you've got it going though. :)
 

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I think you'll need to have that cylinder miked for out of round. That's likely why it failed. They stuck new rings in a worn bore. In which case you'll need to overbore all 4 and put in .030 or more pistons and rings. Or you'll be doing it again in another 40K.
 

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Hey well you are talking to seasoned vet on pulling the 2.2l out. I have down it to mine, 3 time in the past 6 months..It is easier to pull the head off prior, because the intake manifold "out-riggered" on the left will give you problems because it is right up against he AC core that is right next to it.. Just saying from experience.
 

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I think you'll need to have that cylinder miked for out of round. That's likely why it failed. They stuck new rings in a worn bore. In which case you'll need to overbore all 4 and put in .030 or more pistons and rings. Or you'll be doing it again in another 40K.
Why .030? why not .020???
 

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If you need some .020 ring, I have some brand new ones never been open. It includes all the rings, and oil ring. I will sell them cheap.. Got them from Enginepartsonly.com.
 

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time to get cereal
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Just pull the engine with the intake on the head still...
 

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Not really.
Lol was thinking the same thing but was weighing whether the reply would be worth it.

I mean, even without AC I pull the engine with the intake attached.
 

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Lol was thinking the same thing but was weighing whether the reply would be worth it.

I mean, even without AC I pull the engine with the intake attached.
Now that makes sense, because the AC makes it harder, not impossible, but harder to pull the engine. I guess it just depends on how easy it separates from the tranny..
 

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Not having AC makes intake removal much faster though, and I still can get the whole engine out faster without removing it.
 
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