[Innate]

I didn't read every post above, so may be out of sync with your discussion here, but talking from the GM V8 world of '50's to 90's... the elevated cast-in characters on that rear area would be the casting date of the block, at the foundry, placed onto the casting core as it was set up for actually being cast that day. In your case, "10E3" would be a block cast on the tenth day of May (E=fifth month in year) in some year ending in "3", like 1983 or 1993; other info would tell you which decade it was. Castings start out more generic, didn't matter yet what cam, CR, application yet. It then would have been machined in as soon as a day or two, but more commonly up to a month after the date it was cast. As it's machined, it would be machined for a particular application that they were planning to need engines for, e.g. truck vs car, performance level, the vehicle line intended for installation, and all of that more detailed info, plus in some years maybe a machining date, would be coded into the stamped code on the machined pad. Even the intended transmission was coded in, in the sixties (I have a '63 327 block that has a casting date in April '63, with separate stamped code stating it was machined for a low performance, manual trans, Impala. Those three letter codes shown in the chart from LMC look more like what would be seen stamped on a machined pad; they should have said cast, not stamped, imho.

In your case, the above is likely meaningless now, as you've figured it out by the other stuff you have there.

 

[aitch]

........... So this engine would for sure have the small journals and not worth building up right? .................

I wouldn't jump to any conclusions yet. The serial number (once found) will identify/ confirm the actual year of the engine build, and that should determine the journal (diameter) size. That size differential is noted in the .pdf included in post #4, in the crankshaft section on page 9.

 

[S10Gary]

I didn't read every post above, so may be out of sync with your discussion here, but talking from the GM V8 world of '50's to 90's... the elevated cast-in characters on that rear area would be the casting date of the block, at the foundry, placed onto the casting core as it was set up for actually being cast that day. In your case, "10E3" would be a block cast on the tenth day of May (E=fifth month in year) in some year ending in "3", like 1983 or 1993; other info would tell you which decade it was. Castings start out more generic, didn't matter yet what cam, CR, application yet. It then would have been machined in as soon as a day or two, but more commonly up to a month after the date it was cast. As it's machined, it would be machined for a particular application that they were planning to need engines for, e.g. truck vs car, performance level, the vehicle line intended for installation, and all of that more detailed info, plus in some years maybe a machining date, would be coded into the stamped code on the machined pad. Even the intended transmission was coded in, in the sixties (I have a '63 327 block that has a casting date in April '63, with separate stamped code stating it was machined for a low performance, manual trans, Impala. Those three letter codes shown in the chart from LMC look more like what would be seen stamped on a machined pad; they should have said cast, not stamped, imho.

In your case, the above is likely meaningless now, as you've figured it out by the other stuff you have there.

no its very meaningful. Thank you for contributing. It must be 1983 based on your date code analysis and Max's deductive reasoning based on photos. I will continue to search for a number. I took the alternator brackets off and photos are attached. I see no numbers under the brackets. Any other places to look?

 

[Innate]

According to my FSM '83, the location you circled in blue is an optional location. The primary location is on the engine block somewhere (in the upper of your two pics) on the Rt below that heater hose clamp, maybe behind or near that Aluminum bracket that comes in from the lower mid Rt side, maybe the PS support. And of course hit the pad with some fine emery cloth then WD40, as sometimes the stampings are weak.

 

[Innate]

Actually, isn't that Rt side Aluminum bracket for an AIR system, and the PS bracket is mounted on front of that? Just curious to see if I remember that, a little memory test, hoping I haven't aged out. For the next two days I will be in MA, near my '82 and '85 2.8's, I'll see if I can see where the stamped machining and application code is located on those. Just for fun.

 

[S10Gary]

..... the elevated cast-in characters on that rear area would be the casting date of the block, at the foundry, placed onto the casting core as it was set up for actually being cast that day. In your case, "10E3" would be a block cast on the tenth day of May (E=fifth month in year) in some year ending in "3", like 1983 or 1993; other info would tell you which decade it was. ......

OK if it was 83 then the mechanical fuel pump mount would have been machined out but it is not. Is it therefore safe to conclude that it is a 1993?

 

[Innate]

Yes, likely. That's the way the reasoning goes, until you find the machined/stamped assembly code on the front of that block, it's the peripheral stuff like you describe, that cues you in. I said "3" because that it what it looks like, but as you'd suspect, casting can be imperfect and it could be an incompletely formed 8 or 5. It really looks like a 3 to me though.

With the V8's, particularly in the 70's to 80's, often that block casting date was unclear, and we would have to find the casting date on the intake manifold and the cylinder heads, and those sometimes were more clear and would confirm the date, assuming those parts had not been changed. If pulling a rocker cover is easy, the casting date should be easily seen between a couple of the bosses.

 

[S10Gary]

88 or 93 would both be larger journal crank so that would work. Now the question is (and i will confirm by finding the date code), is it worn out? is it broken? It turns by hand with the spark plugs in. I didnt hear any metallic sounds inside while moving it. I did feel resistance increase during the compression .... we shall see if its usable or not. Maybe I can get it running while I look for a 3.4

 

[Innate]

Got that. I'll be interested to see what you find if you pull a rocker cover; as I continue to think about this, I recall that that was the clearest of casting dates that I would find.

I'm getting deeper into getting my '85 2.8 running after 14 yrs of outdoor storage, so I'm interested in what you are finding, so keep us posted. I'm getting mine going just to use for a year or two, until I get organized to put something bigger in. I need to use it for towing, so I'm thinking I need at least the 3.4, but preferably make the change to a 4.3 or V8.

 

[Mad Max]

My suggestion is to make the engine a runner.
It's mostly there and you may be surprised that it might even run well.

I don't know where you are, but in Baton Rouge, there are 2 Camaros with the 3.4
One of them looks pretty good. The engine in it is cleanish.

I bought a 3.4 out of a 95 10 years ago. It cost $125 back then.
It has 174K miles on it now, and runs super. No smoke, knocks or leaks.
I went crazy with bolt on performance stuff, and it runs 14 second 1./4 mile.
Pretty good for a mini mouse engine.

The later 60* V6s were bullet proof.

BTW, I have an 82 (first year square body) with the original engine in it. It has the small journal crank in it, and it runs very well. It has 140K miles on it, and I have driven it all over the country. Bought it in Oklahoma, and it did lots of hiway duty.
The early 2.8s were pretty reliable, even though people tell stories of weak cranks.

 

[Innate]

The 3.4 was the pinnacle of development of that motor, imho. Very interesting. I'll ask more about that. I have to hit the road in an hour, out of touch the next few days, so will get back.

I actually live on the coast of Maine, but not intimidated by travel or shipping.

I like torque for towing. Most fun I ever had was a '71 Cad 500 I put in a '71 Monte, one of my legacy memories; bottomless torque.

 

[S10Gary]

My suggestion is to make the engine a runner.
It's mostly there and you may be surprised that it might even run well.

I don't know where you are, but in Baton Rouge, there are 2 Camaros with the 3.4
One of them looks pretty good. The engine in it is cleanish.

I bought a 3.4 out of a 95 10 years ago. It cost $125 back then.
It has 174K miles on it now, and runs super. No smoke, knocks or leaks.
I went crazy with bolt on performance stuff, and it runs 14 second 1./4 mile.
Pretty good for a mini mouse engine.

The later 60* V6s were bullet proof.

BTW, I have an 82 (first year square body) with the original engine in it. It has the small journal crank in it, and it runs very well. It has 140K miles on it, and I have driven it all over the country. Bought it in Oklahoma, and it did lots of hiway duty.
The early 2.8s were pretty reliable, even though people tell stories of weak cranks.

Im in Sarasota Florida... wish I could get that 3.4 in Baton Rouge. I need the A/C brackets also, flywheel cover. Is it manual? Wow thats quite a testimony you have there for the 3.4 you hopped up. What should I expect to pay now for a 3.4?

 

[S10Gary]

The 3.4 was the pinnacle of development of that motor, imho. Very interesting. I'll ask more about that. I have to hit the road in an hour, out of touch the next few days, so will get back.

I actually live on the coast of Maine, but not intimidated by travel or shipping.

I like torque for towing. Most fun I ever had was a '71 Cad 500 I put in a '71 Monte, one of my legacy memories; bottomless torque.

Thats the ultimate torque combo in gasoline engines. One of my legacy memories as you call it is a 400sb chev in a 66 Bel Air. Torque galore. Fun times. I think I got about 8mpg.

 

[Mad Max]

The U Pull yard they are in is getting $310 without a core and also comes with a guarantee. Of course you have to remove the engine... The engine drops out from underneath, not from the top.
The Camaro / Firebird engines are MPFI and have a different accessory drive than S10s and a few more differences, but they are a direct bolt in. I left all of that stuff behind not needing it.
The 3.4s in the yard are both automatics. You can buy a new flywheel for a standard shift cheaply on Rock Auto or eBay.

 

[Mad Max]

Message was too long to post - Here's the rest

I have (2) 3.4s. One is a GM crate engine that was in my 85 4x4. I didn't know it was a 3.4 until I put a new timing chain in it. I saw the boss where a cam sensor would go. No other iron head 60* V6 has this. Also - the fuel pump mount was not machined to accept a pump, so it has an electric fuel pump. It also has a Holley/Eddy on it, headers, 3" exhaust. The usual mods.

The other 3.4 came from the U Pull yard.
I installed a mountain cam in it (480* adv duration and around .500" lift) a true roller chain, roller rockers (had to - one of the stock ones broke), a RARE Mallory dual point distributor, Edelbrock / Holley 390 CFM carb, headers, and a 3" exhaust. It runs a Borg T5 and added an Eaton Posi 4.10 gear disc brake rear axle assembly.
It is a blast to drive. I have 17" wheels / tires on it and the engine will spin both of them easily.
It runs out of torque before the 5500 RPM red line, but winds to it quickly.

All accessories work! A/C, PS, P brakes (even though the cam is huge)

This is the truck
I should probably sell it since I haven't driven it for 4 years...

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Message was too long to post - Here's the rest

I have (2) 3.4s. One is a GM crate engine that was in my 85 4x4. I didn't know it was a 3.4 until I put a new timing chain in it. I saw the boss where a cam sensor would go. No other iron head 60* V6 has this. Also - the fuel pump mount was not machined to accept a pump, so it has an electric fuel pump. It also has a Holley/Eddy on it, headers, 3" exhaust. The usual mods.

The other 3.4 came from the U Pull yard.
I installed a mountain cam in it (480* adv duration and around .500" lift) a true roller chain, roller rockers (had to - one of the stock ones broke), a RARE Mallory dual point distributor, Edelbrock / Holley 390 CFM carb, headers, and a 3" exhaust. It runs a Borg T5 and added an Eaton Posi 4.10 gear disc brake rear axle assembly.
It is a blast to drive. I have 17" wheels / tires on it and the engine will spin both of them easily.
It runs out of torque before the 5500 RPM red line, but winds to it quickly.
View attachment 374157
All accessories work! A/C, PS, P brakes (even though the cam is huge)

View attachment 374158

This is the truck
I should probably sell it since I haven't driven it for 4 years...

I haven't heard the term Mallory Dual Point in a long time. I had one in a V8 Vega. Whenever I had to replace/adjust points, I pulled it and went to the speed shop. They did it for free.

 

[Mad Max]

^^^ I have several dual point distributors for all different engines. I see them for cheap and buy them. Probably a waste of $$, but maybe I'll use them some day.
You can see the Mallory at the back of the engine in the pic.

 

[S10Gary]

Message was too long to post - Here's the rest

I have (2) 3.4s. One is a GM crate engine that was in my 85 4x4. I didn't know it was a 3.4 until I put a new timing chain in it. I saw the boss where a cam sensor would go. No other iron head 60* V6 has this. Also - the fuel pump mount was not machined to accept a pump, so it has an electric fuel pump. It also has a Holley/Eddy on it, headers, 3" exhaust. The usual mods.

The other 3.4 came from the U Pull yard.
I installed a mountain cam in it (480* adv duration and around .500" lift) a true roller chain, roller rockers (had to - one of the stock ones broke), a RARE Mallory dual point distributor, Edelbrock / Holley 390 CFM carb, headers, and a 3" exhaust. It runs a Borg T5 and added an Eaton Posi 4.10 gear disc brake rear axle assembly.
It is a blast to drive. I have 17" wheels / tires on it and the engine will spin both of them easily.
It runs out of torque before the 5500 RPM red line, but winds to it quickly.
View attachment 374157
All accessories work! A/C, PS, P brakes (even though the cam is huge)

View attachment 374158

This is the truck
I should probably sell it since I haven't driven it for 4 years...

Max thats my dream setup. The exact setup I want to do to my 85 4x4 longbed! Do you have an AIR pump on it and all that stuff? Using stock 2.8 brackets for everything?

 

[DaveP]

never mind.

 

[S10Gary]

Ok I got numbers. Can anyone decode this? Cast numbers on the block under the power steering bracket. 10065457

I hope this is the right number to tell what year make and model and options of car it originally went into.