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Discussion Starter #44
They're some what cheaper that the Holley set though they look fabricated instead of cast. Might be the thing for someone on a tight budget that has the rest of the components. I've decide to go with the Holley kit since I don't have the right ac, alt. or ps pump.
 

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I like that that kit uses the bigger truck alternator and Sanden compressor.
So using the Vette balancer and F body PS pump, Im wondering how well it
play out.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I like that that kit uses the bigger truck alternator and Sanden compressor.
So using the Vette balancer and F body PS pump, Im wondering how well it
play out.
I didn't take time to figure the cost of each item when comparing it to Holley kit 20-138 but there's no doubt you could save some money by rustling up some of the parts.
 

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thats about the cheapest bracket kit out there including idlers and tensioner.
I guess we will see if its got any issues like the flimsy LS Simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
thats about the cheapest bracket kit out there including idlers and tensioner.
I guess we will see if its got any issues like the flimsy LS Simple.
That;s what I was thinking and why I'm sticking with the Holley kit.
 

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Since it is steel, I thought that after I test fit everything and get it where I want that I'd tack weld the plates to the spacer to reduce any flex. I supposed you could also add a couple gussets if it felt at all flexy. Thus making it as solid as a cast piece, but stronger than cast aluminum. Doubt there is any significant weight difference since both brands are relatively small.
 

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I saw that on the cost of the water pump. I got a GU Type I from the guy that sold me the shortblock.
 

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No tensioner pulley with the Speedway brackets. They went old school with the adjustable alternator.
 

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Harley, do you see that as a potential problem beyond needing to check the tension occasionally?
With all your experience using other GM parts on these swaps can you think of a tensioner that might be adaptable?
How about adding a Tutu tensioner 24576073 in place of the lower pass side pulley. Might need to add an extension on the lower arm of the mount.

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LS3 Cruisin'
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My first gut reaction was "Oh boy another LSSimple setup". Looks flimsy to me. Especially the way it holds the a/c comp. Granted it is half the price of Kwik or Dirty Dingo and like 1/3 the price of Holley or other companies.

Going to ask the obvious question... why not just use the factory truck accessory bracket from the JY for the drivers side, clearance the hood rib, and get a reputable aftermarket a/c bracket for high mount on the pass side, e.g. kwik? I think you'd end up with a better setup overall from that perspective. Plus you get to re-use the S-10 P P/S pump and you get a factory truck tensioner... Would also be rock solid without needing additional gusseting or w/e.
 

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My first gut reaction was "Oh boy another LSSimple setup". Looks flimsy to me. Especially the way it holds the a/c comp. Granted it is half the price of Kwik or Dirty Dingo and like 1/3 the price of Holley or other companies.

Going to ask the obvious question... why not just use the factory truck accessory bracket from the JY for the drivers side, clearance the hood rib, and get a reputable aftermarket a/c bracket for high mount on the pass side, e.g. kwik? I think you'd end up with a better setup overall from that perspective. Plus you get to re-use the S-10 P P/S pump and you get a factory truck tensioner... Would also be rock solid without needing additional gusseting or w/e.
but then where does that put you with accessory drives?
 

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Harley, do you see that as a potential problem beyond needing to check the tension occasionally?
With all your experience using other GM parts on these swaps can you think of a tensioner that might be adaptable?
How about adding a Tutu tensioner 24576073 in place of the lower pass side pulley. Might need to add an extension on the lower arm of the mount.
It worked for years before someone came up with the auto tensioner design. Although I believe that was mostly with V Belt setups. It's probably just fine for a standard accessory setup, but I know my buddy struggled with belt slip on his Procharged 4.3 that only adjusted tension like that. He definitely talked about trying to add in factory GM tensioner, but never got around to it.

Being the brackets are made from steel it probably wouldn't be too hard to adapt a factory tensioner. Would have to drill an extra hole for the locating pin and/or add material like you are suggesting, but that should be straightforward. Hardest part will be deciding what orientation for best tension.
 

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LS3 Cruisin'
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They sell manual HD tensioners for LS setups as is. Upside, you can set your desired level of tension in the event you want a bit more due to crank slipping. Downside, too lose and it slips, too tight and bearings wear quicker, plus the need to check it occasionally. Unless you have a need to, your probably better off using an automatic tensioner.
 

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It worked for years before someone came up with the auto tensioner design. Although I believe that was mostly with V Belt setups. It's probably just fine for a standard accessory setup, but I know my buddy struggled with belt slip on his Procharged 4.3 that only adjusted tension like that. He definitely talked about trying to add in factory GM tensioner, but never got around to it.
Thank you for these comments. It made up my mind.
If someone with a Procharger was have belt slipping issues, then it will more than likely be fine on a stock LQ9. Supercharged engines have very quick throttle response due to the increased atmospheric pressure. On the other side Turbos wind fairly high and I could see potential problems there as well. Makes me think NA should be fine. Especially since I'm old, it'll rarely see 5K. I'm after that initial kick in the butt.
I'm ordering the brackets today. Will let everyone know how they work out.
 
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