I have a 98 S10 step side short bed / L33 5.3 with LS6 intake / 4L65E and 3:42 8.6 rear-end. I'm looking at Holley # 20-131-BK and installation kit # 21-3. My concern is with which water pump can I do this without moving my radiator forward?
Don't know for a fact, but I doubt it will work with anything, but the Vette/Short pump if you aren't willing to push the radiator forward,
From what I gathered from shopping their parts the installation kit will match the water pump depth you choose, so you'll want 21-1 with the Vette pump. The 21-3 goes with the truck/long pump.
Are the Corvette crank pulley and waterpump extremely expensive? Otherwise why wouldn't you just go with the shortest setup possible to allow more room for rad and fans? Or does it require Corvette alternator and PS pump also?
I'm thinking of going Vette on my LQ9 unless it's too pricey.
Are the Corvette crank pulley and waterpump extremely expensive? Otherwise why wouldn't you just go with the shortest . setup possible to allow more room for rad and fans? Or does it require Corvette alternator and PS pump also?
I'm thinking of going Vette on my LQ9 unless it's too pricey.
Yes they are, I am considering the full Holley high mount AC system my self. By the time I locate all the crap that will be needed... I might as well order the whole damn kit. I am looking at the mid mount system, part # 20-185. It's on sale for Christmas... only $1600, MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ME... divorce court next month...
but it does come with all the bells and whistles and bolts. $2000 normally, I'll build a few more transmissions to pay for it. Features:
Bracketless accessory mounting with ultra-easy assembly
Bottom outlet heater hose options for swap application clearance
LT1 style premium 150 amp alternator
LT1 style water pump cartidge design
Compact SD7 A/C compressor
Type II power steering pump with baffled reservoir
P/S adapter hardline to AN -6 adapter included
Steam tube input port
Shortened top outlet nipple for more radiator hose turns and routing room
OE pulley ratios for optimal accessory performance
No adapters/spacers required!
Works with all common aftermarket and factory throttle bodies and intakes.
Works with VVT applications
Works with Hooker turbo manifolds.
Fits ALL LS engines except with dry sump and/or supercharger.
All accessories are included; the water pump, A/C compressor, Alternator, P/S pump with reservoir, and the crank damper.
Maybe I'm not reading the Holley criteria carefully enough but will the #20-131 brackets work with the 5.3 R4 compressor, power steering pump and alternator or are they specific gm units?
Maybe I'm not reading the Holley criteria carefully enough but will the #20-131 brackets work with the 5.3 R4 compressor, power steering pump and alternator or are they specific gm units?
Is your swap done and you're adding AC, or are you still working on the swap?
I used that bracket on my 5.3 swap. I used the GM Perforamnce Parts accessory drive kit (without AC since I didn't want the low-mount compressor), and added the Holley bracket. The GMPP kit is essentially an LS2 Corvette accessory drive. The R4 compressor fit fine and clears my stock hood on my '82.
I don't know if it will fit the 5.3 truck accessory drive. The LS2 accessory drive I've got has the alternator high on the driver's side, and the power steering pump is kind-of mid-mounted on the driver's side with a remote reservoir.
The biggest issue I had with my accessory drive setup was the power steering pump reservoir location. On my truck, the Corvette remote reservoir stuck out enough that it fought the upper radiator hose and the air cleaner ducting for space. I used a 4.3 radiator, so the upper inlet is on the driver's side. An LS swap radiator with the upper inlet on the passenger side might have fixed that. Instead I ended up using a Pontiac G8 reservoir and made a bracket to mount it.
Thanks for you input, I would like to use the stock gm compressor, alternator and ps unit if at all possible. If not I might be better off buying a complete kit with new ac,ps an alt. though it will wreck my budget.
Ls swaps never come in on budget.
I don't think Holley offers a kit for the stock (Leaky Tiki) compressor . They offer both Sanden and R4.
If your stock compressor is off for any time the seals will dry out and you'll need to replace it anyway.
Who ever thought up that design with seals in the middle of the main housing didn't do anybody any favors.
Ls swaps never come in on budget.
I don't think Holley offers a kit for the stock (Leaky Tiki) compressor . They offer both Sanden and R4.
If your stock compressor is off for any time the seals will dry out and you'll need to replace it anyway.
Who ever thought up that design with seals in the middle of the main housing didn't do anybody any favors.
the new replacement compressor I got (after I turned in the POS rock auto ones) is a improved 10 cyl one thats fixed that seal.
we will see how well it holds up,only been a month so far.
Few things... if you're looking at a mid or long setup, holley isn't your best bet, dirty dingo and kwik are as they both have setups that utilize the stock ham can P series P/S pumps. Holley kits are designed around the TC-II PS pumps. Its not a question of what is GM vs what isn't, its a question of which GM accessories do you want to run. They Holley kit is great in Vette configuration (which I run). If I was running mid or long, again kwik or DD.
Holley kit uses standard Alternator AD-244 mounting... big or small case, nothing special there.
Can be had in R4 or sanden SD 508 variants, why anyone would run the suck that is an R4 I don't know, the sandens are superior in most every way.
The stock GM compressor from your truck is a sanden direct mount style, nobody makes a kit for that, so Im not sure what you mean by stock GM compressor... GM didn't make compressors, they outsourced them.
Water pumps come in all flavors too... GM made all 3 depths because well, GM made the damn vehicles? It comes down to which side and which rad, where do you need your inlet/outlet on your rad/water pump? A superior rad ain't working with a vette water pump, and a CPW rad ain't workin with a truck water pump because its left vs right nipples on the rad...
This thread reads like someone is trying to build a dog house with a box of nails, a pair of pliers, and a turkey baster... Do the homework, figure out what the heck it is you want to do on what budget, just "I want it to be GM" isn't good enough because that can literally be done in a thousand permutations of short/mid/long, high/mid/low mount, and with or w/o various accessories. So many ways to skin a cat.
the new replacement compressor I got (after I turned in the POS rock auto ones) is a improved 10 cyl one thats fixed that seal.
we will see how well it holds up,only been a month so far.
Buying anything other than Genuine Sanden is an absolute waste of money, period full stop. The price has come down, you can pay 100$ for chinese crap, or do it once pay 200$ and get the real deal. Same goes for those ebay water pumps, avoid those suckers like the plague unless you want a breakdown on the side of the interstate... AC Delco Genuine Waterpump is the only thing that should ever be bolted to an LS, anything else is just asking for trouble.
Also... I can tell you right now you'll regret running Holley's setup in long configuration in an S-10... I run short with about 1/8" from the back corner of my heads to my firewall, as far back in the mounts as I can go. Not only will the ear of the compressor mount, especially if its the R4, most likely hit the battery in the stock location- good luck getting the ratchet on the tensioner to get the belt on and off... My truck is in storage for the winter otherwise I'd take a few pics to show why I wouldn't recommend holley in long...
No one has mentioned leaving the compressor where it is and notching the frame. Most swaps end up notching the crossmember even with a new pan, for added clearance. Why not do the frame at the same time?
LT1 swaps (90's era) have been doing the notch w/o any issues.
Today, it seems everyone wants a cure in a box.
See post #4 He also mentions a TBSS compressor with what looks like a plate to offset if for Corvette Accessories. Will it simply just work with the truck accessories?
This post is a compilation of parts, suggestions, tips, and practices to successfully swap an LS-based engine into an S10 Truck (2WD, and Blazer variants) Most swappers generally underestimate the total costs and time for these conversions. Keep the engine bay clean. Once the original engine...
Do you have or do you mind just posting a quick picture for me. Just wanna look at the notch and clearances. Greatly appreciated. I'm currently at work and Photobucket is blocked. But you can look up my albums on photobucket under the username Zx9rgreen
Yes they are, I am considering the full Holley high mount AC system my self. By the time I locate all the crap that will be needed... I might as well order the whole damn kit. I am looking at the mid mount system, part # 20-185. It's on sale for Christmas... only $1600, MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ME... divorce court next month...
but it does come with all the bells and whistles and bolts. $2000 normally, I'll build a few more transmissions to pay for it. Features:
Bracketless accessory mounting with ultra-easy assembly
Bottom outlet heater hose options for swap application clearance
LT1 style premium 150 amp alternator
LT1 style water pump cartidge design
Compact SD7 A/C compressor
Type II power steering pump with baffled reservoir
P/S adapter hardline to AN -6 adapter included
Steam tube input port
Shortened top outlet nipple for more radiator hose turns and routing room
OE pulley ratios for optimal accessory performance
No adapters/spacers required!
Works with all common aftermarket and factory throttle bodies and intakes.
Works with VVT applications
Works with Hooker turbo manifolds.
Fits ALL LS engines except with dry sump and/or supercharger.
All accessories are included; the water pump, A/C compressor, Alternator, P/S pump with reservoir, and the crank dampe
Ls swaps never come in on budget.
I don't think Holley offers a kit for the stock (Leaky Tiki) compressor . They offer both Sanden and R4.
If your stock compressor is off for any time the seals will dry out and you'll need to replace it anyway.
Who ever thought up that design with seals in the middle of the main housing didn't do anybody any favors.
With the brackets 20-131 and about a half dozen other components it runs the price up and you still have the high mount with the truck wp and used ac, alt. ps pump. I might just bite the bullet and get the mid-mount kit...everything there and all new... Like you said when I first started this project," there is no cheap LS swap unless you are willing to do tons of work and even then it's not cheap.
The notch for A/C is an interesting topic... I considered it at the time when I was doing my swap, but a few unknowns stopped me from doing it. That and I hadn't done enough research regarding header clearance/fitment (though those new cast iron blackheart manifolds look like they'd be the ticket). The down low compressors are smaller displacement and that means weaker A/C. The upside benefit is using a separate belt, tensioner and the back set of grooves on a Vette Crank pulley or a truck crank pulley. I'd think the vette version would be better since face to the compressor is 1" less projection. It has and can be done its just more diy and research for anyone really wanting to do it. Oh and making your own A/C lines as nobody sells a swap set for that, however all the parts are available at coldhose.com
The notch for A/C is an interesting topic... I considered it at the time when I was doing my swap, but a few unknowns stopped me from doing it. That and I hadn't done enough research regarding header clearance/fitment (though those new cast iron blackheart manifolds look like they'd be the ticket). The down low compressors are smaller displacement and that means weaker A/C. The upside benefit is using a separate belt, tensioner and the back set of grooves on a Vette Crank pulley or a truck crank pulley. I'd think the vette version would be better since face to the compressor is 1" less projection. It has and can be done its just more diy and research for anyone really wanting to do it. Oh and making your own A/C lines as nobody sells a swap set for that, however all the parts are available at coldhose.com
I've read the component require with brackets 20-132 list / price. Think I'm going to go with the mid-mount accessory kit, everything's there and all new. Plus, more clearance hopefully better routing for air intake etc. At this point I have some money invested in this project, would hate to end up with a half-*** mess over a few more hundred dollars.
I've read the component require with brackets 20-132 list / price. Think I'm going to go with the mid-mount accessory kit, everything's there and all new. Plus, more clearance hopefully better routing for air intake etc. At this point I have some money invested in this project, would hate to end up with a half-*** mess over a few more hundred dollars.
FWIW... all Holley kits use the same components.... The only difference is the mid mount includes 1/2" spacers added behind the bracket for mid mount, and 1" spacers for long/truck mount.
The only feasible reasons to run mid mount are A: You don't have a Vette Crank pulley and can't afford the 90$ to buy a stock one or 25$ to get a JY one, and B: You can't get a LS1/LS2/LS3 water pump. Its worth noting that a few of the "mid mount" water pumps have a double width pulley that actually accommodates both mid and short arrangements. GM was cheap this way. It wasn't until later that the Camaro offset truly became its own offset. Some people can nitpick but the point is, you more or less have all the parts to run vette offset, but basically choosing to run mid for no apparently good reason?
Are we talking about the Holley 20-185 mid-mount kit? I''ve got a couple of the old R4 compressors , a few alternators and an S10 power steering pump or two. It's all been sitting for years. I'm not sure these will fit using the 20-131 brackets, looks like Holley has specified certain gm units. The 20-185 is costly but comes with everything and its all new stuff. I'm thinking longevity and ease of installment.
Ok so I'm usually the guy that just lurks on the forum reading and gathering information for projects. This time I think I'm going to post my progress as I go so maybe someone else can learn from my screw ups. I'm not new to LS swaps but that doesn't mean I'm not still learning. I'm going to try...
It appears my 98 stepside has the Z83 suspension with the 2.2 engine. I don't wont to lower it because I'm using the cpw swap pan and I want to keep sufficient road clearance. I thought that since it has the 2.2 I might need heavier coils, but the AC Delco 45HO320 is listed for both the 2.2 and...
I'm in the process of working on the engine wiring harness for my 6.0 and was curious if anyone here has used a bussmann fuse box. I need some assistance on the wiring behind the box.
i am definitely going to build me a s-10 ls powered . looking advice .what the major difference in 2.2 vs 4.3 engine bay . all i finding for sale are 2.2 that look good . i am good with hp tuner 0411 computers . i have did 7 swaps this year for people .just not s 10.
www.s10forum.com
