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Discussion Starter #1
In preparation for my Flex-a-lite model 60 e-fan, I went ahead and purchased a 140 amp CS-144 from Adam at Nations Starter and Alternator...
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/gmcs144.html

Here's a shot of the old CS-130D next to the new CS-144 and the required pig-tail for my 2000 S-10 with a 4.3L engine.


As you can see from the below image, the new Alternator just barely clears the throttle cable bracket.


Removal of the old unit was fairly simple. Note: if you go with the bigger CS-144, you will have to remove the heater hose bracket from the back of the old CS-130D due to the different housing configuration (see old location below).


Also , the heater hose that routes by the EGR valve will have to have it's pastic stud clip removed due to the fact that the larger unit would pinch it if left in this spot. I placed a rubber cap over the stud to keep the stud from rubbing on the heater hose.


One last change is the fan belt. You will need a longer belt. A 967K6 worked fine for me. This belt is 1.5" longer. A 960K6 may also work if you find the 967K6 a bit slack with your tensioner. Check the indicator on the tensioner housing to make sure you are still in the safe range.

With the truck at idle, turning the A/C on with the fan switch to high, the volt meter doesn't even drop a bit (yeah!). If you need a little more juice for your S-10, the CS-144 unit looks to be rock solid option.

E-fan install how-to coming next week...
Bill.
 

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u need to get the right rear support backet for that alternator too or the case WILL break i have seen many of those alts break due to the bracket being omitted.
I have had two broken cases on my own truck until i got that rear bracket
 

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That's a great writeup. That CS-144 looks massive under there..That is a
good idea about a rear bracket. I hope it works out well for you.

As for the member who asked if a bigger or high amp alt should be included
when doing an e-fan, I think it should be. At least one that lays out 120 amps
or more. Mine is a CS-130 custom built putting out 120 amps and it's just
barley enough. I installed an overdrive pulley which helped out a lot.

Sorry bout hijacking the thread.
 

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loco hombre
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Is it a requirement that you get a higher amp alternator for the e-fan? Will the stock one be enough?
Good question. Part of that would definitely depend on what make/model e-fan you go with. The Taurus fans move lots of air but suck a lot of amperage. The Flex-a-lite draws about 14 amps. Idle is the big problem with the stock alternator - it can put out 105 amps but is nowhere near that (I never tested mine but heard around 60) at idle.

I'd agree with bg that on most e-fan installs, a higher output alternator is a smart idea... especially if you do a bit of stop & go, or idling, as that's when the fan will run the most and also when the charging system is delivering the least juice.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is it a requirement that you get a higher amp alternator for the e-fan? Will the stock one be enough?
I actually had the first Flex-a-lite installed and it had a defective thermostat. This is when I realized a bigger Alt. would be needed. So, yes, I would suggest a larger Alt. if you are thinking about putting an e-fan in.
Bill.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
u need to get the right rear support backet for that alternator too or the case WILL break i have seen many of those alts break due to the bracket being omitted.
I have had two broken cases on my own truck until i got that rear bracket
Thanks Broke.
Any idea what part number the bracket is or did you just fab one yourself.
 

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i have a spare i will seeif it has a gm number on it
 

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great writeup, may do the same thing my self
 

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Is it a requirement that you get a higher amp alternator for the e-fan? Will the stock one be enough?
I guess i will go against the grain a little here and say no. I have my stock 125K mile alternator with 100 or 105 amps, whatever it has. I run the Tauraus e-fan. I do a bit of highway though, and my efan doesn't run when i am over 40mph. The voltage drops at idle, but that is to be expected i supose.
 

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I am also using a stock alternator with the flex-a-lite efan without issue, I do probably 60/40 city/highway as well.
 

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but if you add a 1,000 watt stereo system, fog lights,or any other high demand device the stock alt falls behind really fast
 

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but if you add a 1,000 watt stereo system, fog lights,or any other high demand device the stock alt falls behind really fast
Agreed, this was a nice writeup no doubt about that.
 

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Also adding a bigger battery will help. I have a 1000 CCA intimadator battery in mine. It is the optima's competition. I had to modify my battery tray a little but it fits with no problem.
 

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I have the stock alternator, about 1000 watts of amp with the two put together, high beam bulbs in my low beams and an underdrive pulley on mine and have no problem at idle or anything at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I guess i will go against the grain a little here and say no. I have my stock 125K mile alternator with 100 or 105 amps, whatever it has. I run the Tauraus e-fan. I do a bit of highway though, and my efan doesn't run when i am over 40mph. The voltage drops at idle, but that is to be expected i supose.
The real issue is not whether the stock Alternator is adequate with respect to TOTAL rated amperage, but rather, what amperage is its outputing at 700 RPM's (Idle).
This is where most people are a bit shy on knowledge. The CS-144 WILL put out more amperage at low RPM's than the stock CS-130D will. An Alternators rating is usually reported at peek output, which will be at high RPM's (4000-5000). In the summer months, at a stop light at night, we are highly loading our Alternators due to the Air Conditioning/blower fan, engine e-fan, Stereo, Headlights, brake lights, etc... which is when a stock Alternator will go into cardiac arrest.
The higher amp Alternators are able to handle the increased load due to the fact that they have a higher rating at lower RPM's. If you sit in alot of traffic, this is where your battery will begin to lose life as the battery is now supplying some of the required power due to the inability of the Alternator to supply the vehicle's total demand.
Read the spec's that come with most new high amp Alternators and you'll see the rating as demonstrated in a graph of RPM's -vs- amperage.

Bill.
 

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^^ I agree. One has to remember that the PCM needs at least 5 volts reference
in order for the various engine, tranny and cab sensors to be functional. If these
sensors don't have a reference voltage for the PCM's to compare with, then
one will get all sorts of trouble regarding performance, comfort, safety, etc.
If the electrical system pulls down a lot of volts or the charging system is
hampered at low RPM's which one can figure is about half the time of driving,
[stop lights, stop signs, stopped in traffic, etc] then it can't supply the much
needed voltage for the ride to operate correctly. Add a high amp pulling e-fan,
stereo system, extra lights, etc and one can see how a stock alt is really
put on the line.
 

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I bought that one time, but it didn't seem like it would fit in a second gen at all. How did you mod it?

Also adding a bigger battery will help. I have a 1000 CCA intimadator battery in mine. It is the optima's competition. I had to modify my battery tray a little but it fits with no problem.
 
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