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I've gotta 90. 4.3 5 speed. While driving it felt like the throw out bearing went out. So I picked up a clutch kit, new slave and master. Got it all installed, blead, but it wont shift while running.However, It will go into any gear with truck off. As im sure this is an internal problem of some kind. ( if anyone knows what is wrong plz let me know)
I also have another s10, same year but with the 2.5 5 speed. My question is, is it possible to remove the tranny from the 2.5 and do a bell housing swap so I can get my 4.3 back on the road?
Thanks to all who reply in advance.
 

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The S10 (clutch) hydraulic system is cheap; easy to install, and ridiculously difficult to bleed after installation.

It won't shift while the engine is running and it shift into any gear while the engine is off.

I experienced the same thing a few years ago with my 91' 5-speed. clutch slipping, changed out can't shift to any gear. I replaced the entire hydraulic system and still had issues. So here is what you need to do...

The best way to bleed this hydraulic system is by doing (literally) on a bench. Why on the bench?
The clutch pedal piston and the slave cylinder piston cannot be fully depressed when installed on the truck. Since the (two) cylinders will not fully compress and decompress, there is air (still) trapped in the cylinders. This is why the clutch fork will not travel the distance required to release the friction plate.

One at a time:
Place the clutch master cylinder into a vice and actuate the piston the entire length while feeding the cylinder with fluid. It takes about 10-20 compressions to fully expel the air, the compressions get harder as the hydraulic fluid fills the cylinder.

When you feel comfortable: reinstall the components. (Without compressing the cylinders).
-Add fluid and allow the hydraulic hose to gravity drain, tighten fitting when oil flow is steady.
-Do the same for the hydraulic line between the two cylinders.

-Secure all the fittings, top off the reservoir and try depressing the clutch pedal. It should feel a little stiffer.

-Start the truck and see if shifting the gears while the engine running is easier without issue.


I hope this helps you better understand why the clutch isn't fully engaged after replacing the new cylinder component(s).


The Chevy S10 Hydraulic clutch (system) components:

-Hydraulic (brake fluid) Reservoir

-Hydraulic Hose (connects the reservoir to the master cylinder): Not a regular rubber hose, it must be a hydraulic fluid rated hose.

-Master cylinder (attaches to the clutch pedal): Check the seal (pedal) rod enters the master cylinder: The seal will leak, so make sure it's not leaking or caked with debris. (*I had a pool of fluid under my carpet).

-Hydraulic Line: Connects the Master Cylinder to the Slave Cylinder

-Slave Cylinder: Actuates the clutch fork.

-Clutch Fork: Positions the throwout bearing to actuate the pressure plate springs and release the friction plate.
 

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‘95 LS 2.2L Manual
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Could be you messed up your pilot bearing on install.
 
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