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Nothing is bolted together like the guy above you said
Help with Axle not lining up with 3in drop blocks in
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The radius on those u-bolts looks a little large. Did you compare them to the stock bolts? Some people use set back plates to gain a little room. I’m not sure how much room there should be on the slip joint. I’d be inclined to have the drive shaft shortened. It’s probably way past due for new u-joints anyway. Check with a local d/s shop on cost. It’s not fancy or glamorous, but it won’t leave you stranded either.
It's important that the slip yoke doesn't bottom out at any point in the entire range of suspension travel. If it does, it will eventually hammer your pinion bearings, u-joints, and possibly transmission, causing damage. Assuming you do NOT have enough travel for it to do that, the easiest remedy in your case would probably be get blocks that have a slightly offset pin so they move the axle back a little. That should give you what you need. It's also possible to drill another hole in the perches, but that doesn't work well on short stock perches because they can "rock" on the springs. It's more of an option for aftermarket ones that are longer.
This is a good observation. Will those even fit the plates on the bottom? They need to match the diameter of the axle tube.
I'm thinking this may be a "universal" kit?
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Yes the U bolts are bigger than they should be, the axle tube is like 2.75" and these are 3" u bolts , they came with the blocks. And no it wasn't a permanent solution I planned on redoing my drop blocks with steel blocks after I figured out if 3" drop was what I wanted, and if it would work without doing a bunch of other things. This is my first time lowering a vehicle so the simpler the better.
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They fit but have to be slightly pinched inwards and yes I know this is not the safest option, this wasnt a permanent set up. Was going to get Ubolts made at a local shop, and also swap out the aluminum blocks with steel blocks after I figured out if the 3" would work/be the drop I wanted.
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I wouldn't use them even for a short time. A spring shop can bend them up and thread them in no time. Not expensive either. Some of these parts aren't fancy, but better to get the right parts the 1st time.
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99 Posts
Gonna have to send drive shaft out, don't know if they are still in business Driveline specialty in Milwaukee oregon. Needs shortened by 1.5 inches based on pics. So you got some slip on yoke. This is an educated guess mind you.
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4,407 Posts
when you lower an s10, the driveline has to go somewhere, so it slides in the trans.
there is a point where it cant slide in anymore, and it bottoms out (giggity)
you have to have the driveline shortened. no way around it.
while youre at it, get new ujoints, since your entire shaft looks drier than the sahara (giggity)
shaft manitencnace is standard vehcile maintanence, you dont want that catpult teearing things up when it breaks.
there is a point where it cant slide in anymore, and it bottoms out (giggity)
you have to have the driveline shortened. no way around it.
while youre at it, get new ujoints, since your entire shaft looks drier than the sahara (giggity)
shaft manitencnace is standard vehcile maintanence, you dont want that catpult teearing things up when it breaks.
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Let's leave it open so that you can come back and let us know how it turns out.
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