[HighRPMs]

So to start this is my first time lowering a vehicle, I tried installing 3in tapered blocks (tall side towards the rear) but can't get the blocks to line up with my Axle. I can get one side in but the other side won't line up. I've tried rotating the axle but still can't get them to line up, it will only rotate upwards, does it need to rotate towards the ground in order for it to line up? Do i need some sort of shim? I wrote down my pinion angle before attempting to install the blocks does that have something to do with it?

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Won't line up how...front to back or side to side? Are both shocks disconnected? Did you drop the driveshaft before install? If the d/s is bottomed out, remove the block/s and remove the d/s. If you don't, you'll destroy the transmission if there's no in/out play. As long as you're going to have it apart, I'd ditch the cast hollow blocks and get solid aluminum or steel blocks.

 

[HighRPMs]

Won't line up how...front to back or side to side? Are both shocks disconnected? Did you drop the driveshaft before install? If the d/s is bottomed out, remove the block/s and remove the d/s. If you don't, you'll destroy the transmission if there's no in/out play. As long as you're going to have it apart, I'd ditch the cast hollow blocks and get solid aluminum or steel blocks.

Front to back, If I get the block on the driver side lined up, the axle perch on the right side needs to be pushed towards the front of the truck to get the block to line up. My truck has a driveshaft center support bearing would that make a difference? I felt no play in the driveshaft when trying to install the blocks. And yea, I plan on getting a set of steel blocks but sense this is my first time doing anything like this I just went with beltech, definitely gonna swap it out in the future after I get this hopefully figured out.

 

[TomA]

With the "good" side u-bolts just snug, jack the "bad" side up under the spring until the weight of the axle is sitting on top of the pin (wheel slightly off the ground), then push/pull/pry the axle into place until the pin drops into the hole. Then tighten up the u-bolts. Sometimes, a ratchet strap helps. As long as your driveshaft has a slip yoke, the axle should move into place.

 

[oldeerslayer]

If they are angled blocks and are in backwards you might have trouble lining them up. The slight taper is to correct pinion angle. I see "rear" written on it. Maybe they're marked incorrectly? Measure the blocks at front and rear of the blocks to see if they have any angle.

 

[HighRPMs]

If they are angled blocks and are in backwards you might have trouble lining them up. The slight taper is to correct pinion angle. I see "rear" written on it. Maybe they're marked incorrectly? Measure the blocks at front and rear of the blocks to see if they have any angle.

I wrote rear on it to ensure the tall side went towards the rear

 

[oldeerslayer]

Are you sure that's the correct direction? You aren't trying to point it toward the drive shaft as you raise the axle. You are trying to keep it parallel to the engine and trans center line. That keeps the front and rear angles equal and they then cancel each other out to eliminate vibration and excessive wear.
I'm just asking. 😕
Because that 2 piece driveshaft and those double Cardan u-joints with all the jazz about intersecting angles is over my head. All my extended cab trucks were 4wd and could use a single driveshaft. So I have no experience other than knowing blocks need to be angled to work right.

 

[PeteD]

Won't line up how...front to back or side to side? Are both shocks disconnected? Did you drop the driveshaft before install? If the d/s is bottomed out, remove the block/s and remove the d/s. If you don't, you'll destroy the transmission if there's no in/out play. As long as you're going to have it apart, I'd ditch the cast hollow blocks and get solid aluminum or steel blocks.

Ya to that , Block fail while driving could be health hazard for many .

 

[HighRPMs]

Ya to that , Block fail while driving could be health hazard for many .

Yes I know aluminum blocks are a hazard, I don't plan on running them for long just want to get an idea of where it sits at 3" with my current wheel/tire set up. No in and out play, truck has 2 piece driveshaft with carrier bearing in the middle would that make a difference? I made a post in a FB group and I'm being told to get one side snug and fight the other side into place with a tow strap but afraid that will damage something in the driveline. I've never lowered/lifted a truck before so this is all new to me.

 

[PeteD]

Yes I know aluminum blocks are a hazard, I don't plan on running them for long just want to get an idea of where it sits at 3" with my current wheel/tire set up. No in and out play, truck has 2 piece driveshaft with carrier bearing in the middle would that make a difference? I made a post in a FB group and I'm being told to get one side snug and fight the other side into place with a tow strap but afraid that will damage something in the driveline. I've never lowered/lifted a truck before so this is all new to me.

The Challanger was only 'driven' for 73 seconds in 1986.

 

[TomA]

No in and out play, truck has 2 piece driveshaft with carrier bearing in the middle would that make a difference?

There has to be a slip yoke somewhere between the axle and the stationary part of the shaft (carrier bearing). It would most likely be right behind the carrier bearing. It could possibly be seized up, but that's pretty rare. Can you post a couple of pictures of the rear driveshaft section?

 

[HighRPMs]

There has to be a slip yoke somewhere between the axle and the stationary part of the shaft (carrier bearing). It would most likely be right behind the carrier bearing. It could possibly be seized up, but that's pretty rare. Can you post a couple of pictures of the rear driveshaft section?

Here's a few pictures

 

[What?]

Disconnect the driveshaft from axle. Make sure nothing is tightened down. I usually have drop block in before the u bolt

 

[TomA]

View attachment 371577

That's it right there. It looks a little rusty, but it needs to be free to move. You might be able to free it up with some penetrating oil, then you can pull it apart to clean and grease it. Make sure you mark it so the splines go back together exactly the way they were originally.

 

[HighRPMs]

That's it right there. It looks a little rusty, but it needs to be free to move. You might be able to free it up with some penetrating oil, then you can pull it apart to clean and grease it. Make sure you mark it so the splines go back together exactly the way they were originally.

Alright so just clean/grease and reinstall? If the axle still isn't lining up after would I be safe to force it in with a ratchet strap like you mentioned above? Thank you

 

[TomA]

Alright so just clean/grease and reinstall? If the axle still isn't lining up after would I be safe to force it in with a ratchet strap like you mentioned above? Thank you

As long as the slip joint isn't bottomed out. It should be able to compress another inch or so to compensate for suspension movement.

 

[oldeerslayer]

It might be the pics, but that appears to be a lot of downward pinion angle. There should be less than 3° difference between the angles of the 2 u-joints on that section. 1° would be ideal. You don't want 0° because it needs some movement vertically to keep the grease inside the cups moving around.

 

[PeteD]

It might be the pics, but that appears to be a lot of downward pinion angle. There should be less than 3° difference between the angles of the 2 u-joints on that section. 1° would be ideal. You don't want 0° because it needs some movement vertically to keep the grease inside the cups moving around.

Wow , Is that a Wicked Drive Line Angle at the Pinion , or What ?
Won't be needing any optional massage seats.
They'll be plenty, as is , on this setup.

 

[bk2life]

id guess the axle is pointing down because he cant get the blocks lined up. so the axle has rotated down.
Id pull the dirveline and have it checked out. looks awfuully dry, and might need to be shortened, or new u joints while its apart.

 

[HighRPMs]

As long as the slip joint isn't bottomed out. It should be able to compress another inch or so to compensate for suspension movement.

So I got the slip joint to move freely, I noticed with the blocks in it was bottoming out and couldn't slide onto the splines any further, would that mean I need smaller blocks? I don't really want to have to do any driveline work like shortening my driveshaft. This is how much is has without the blocks in and axle sitting on leaf springs.