[mitrls10]

aight here is where I stand the wiring harness burnt up and more than likely shorted some sensors out and burnt up the computer so I got a new harness and computer and the bastard still wont crank.. it is getting air and fuel but only getting fire from the coil to the distributor but not to the plugs so somebody give me insight y this might be happening oh and by the way I have already timed it, bought a new cap, and rotor so them 3 are not a possiblility... I suspect the sensor in the distributor itself but not positive. Somebody please help me cause nobody can figure this out and everybody else is out of ideas and this keeps delaying me bodydroppin it and its killin me cause the shit would have already been finished by now... :banghead:

 

[Zapnoma]

so......the plugs arent sparking?

check the wires.....

 

[Red SS]

if ur getting fire to the cap and nothing further it has to be something in side like the modulator or something along those lines either that or wires or ur firing order can be off because if ur useing a chillton it has a miss print on the firing order

 

[Valdrewski]

I owuld have to agree with Blacksks00. If you get spark at the cap but not the plug, check the wires and the plugs.

 

[mitrls10]

I am using a haynes manual and the wire order is correct and I changed the plugs and they are good so that eliminates a couple sources of error.. The wires could be bad but I dont have anybody else handy to help me test it right now.. I pulled the wire off the #1 plug and the wire wasn't firing but it could be firing at the distributor but I didn't check that... So keep the ideas coming..

 

[Red SS]

if u didnt already know when u get some help u can have sombody in the truck cranking and someone else with a screw driver inside the boot and see if their is a spark thats the best way to check that just be sure ur not touching the metal part of the screwdriver i have make sure i say that last part because the last time i told someone to do that they wanted to kick my butt cause they got shocked i just thaught it was common sense

 

[BlazerLT]

How about installing a new cap rotor and wire set?

Might as well seeing it's maintenance. It could be the problem.

 

[BlazerFRS]

Check for power at the distributer nodes...if there's no power there, it must be the distributer. I have no idea wether anything in there is replaceable (besides cap/rotor) or if you'll need a whole new unit.

 

[91sdime]

If you have spark at the cap..it could be the metal contact the rotor touches is missing or damaged...or the rotor itself is damaged..

 

[mitrls10]

ok update... I had somebody crank it over and checked for spark at the cap but nothing.. fire from the coil to the cap but not from it... new plugs, wires, cap, rotor and still nothing... I am gonna get some1 to double check the timing and if its ok I will just tow it to the GM place and drop it off and hopefully they can get it running for me.. thanks for all the suggestions hopefully I can get it running before I have to tow it away friday..

 

[bg's]

Save yerself some headache and get a reman dist. You more than
likely fried the magnetic pulse generator or the reluctor wheel that's
on the dist shaft. It won't be right without a rebuilt dist. You could
go and replace the innards of the dist, but considering you had a
burn out, it would be cheaper to go with the dist. I suppose you
could try a ign module. You have to clean the dielectric grease off
from the mount pad and make SURE you spread all new grease on
the mounting pad of the dist before you install the new module.
It's held down with two screws. Also make sure you disconnect
the NEG battery cable before you remove or replace ANY part
inside the dist. You don't want a spark spike and blow the new module.

The dielectric grease acts as an insulator to keep the module
from becoming a heat sink. Ifit heat sinks it kills it every
time = no spark to the plugs from the dist.

New grease is critical. I wouldn't mess with it.
I'd go for the reman dist, but thats just me. Good luck.