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Hello, and Happy New Year from Bonny Scotland!! I bought a 1987 s-10 Blazer from an old friend last fall, mostly okay, but he admitted it had really bad brakes. I'm no mechanic, but I figured at the price ( £ 500 ) I couldn't go wrong, and anyway, brakes should be easy, right? WRONG!!! I met a guy in Vermont through a chat page, he has a couple of s10's, and does all his own repairs, and he has been a great help in sourcing and shipping parts, as well as sharing his experience. Bad news is, after several hundred £'s, I now have new calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, pads and shoes, and STILL NO BRAKES!!! My contact has pretty poor brakes on his Blazers also, is this a common fault with these cars? I could not lock the wheels on this thing if my life depended on it, which someday it might! I can't get this thing through our U.K. safety test, the brakes are so poor. I am now looking to replace the proportioning valve, and re-pipe the whole thing, including the flexible lines. Please, if there is a common fault, let me know. I have about 4000 lbs of American scrap iron in my yard right now, and my wife wants to know what's happening to it!!I want to drive this thing! Any ideas? Thanks. I stuck on a picture of the car.
 

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murray said:
Hello, and Happy New Year from Bonny Scotland!! I bought a 1987 s-10 Blazer from an old friend last fall, mostly okay, but he admitted it had really bad brakes. I'm no mechanic, but I figured at the price ( £ 500 ) I couldn't go wrong, and anyway, brakes should be easy, right? WRONG!!! I met a guy in Vermont through a chat page, he has a couple of s10's, and does all his own repairs, and he has been a great help in sourcing and shipping parts, as well as sharing his experience. Bad news is, after several hundred £'s, I now have new calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, pads and shoes, and STILL NO BRAKES!!! My contact has pretty poor brakes on his Blazers also, is this a common fault with these cars? I could not lock the wheels on this thing if my life depended on it, which someday it might! I can't get this thing through our U.K. safety test, the brakes are so poor. I am now looking to replace the proportioning valve, and re-pipe the whole thing, including the flexible lines. Please, if there is a common fault, let me know. I have about 4000 lbs of American scrap iron in my yard right now, and my wife wants to know what's happening to it!!I want to drive this thing! Any ideas? Thanks. I stuck on a picture of the car.
Nice blazer! As for brakes I havent heard of problems like that with braking systems on the S trucks. Sounds like a bad master cylnder or blocked lines. The only thing that is usualy quirky on the trucks is the auto adjustors on the rear breaks but if the hardware is not all rusty thats usualy not an issue. On my 86 Blazer I can lock up the breaks without a problem its not super easy but then if it was I would be sliding all over the place :)
 

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Hi!!
Thanks for replying so promptly. It's pretty late over here, about 11-30, and I have work tomorrow, so I may be gone for the night soon. I have all new hardware on the rear brakes, new self-adjusters, courtesy of my friendly contact in Vermont. New every thing, except the guy before me fitted a new front to rear line in a smaller tube size, and I feel this is part of the problem. It's real hard over here, there are a few specialist places that charge way over the odds, and your average U.K. mechanic doesn't want to touch it!! I'm pretty handy though,so I do most things myself. The previous owner also changed the rear wheel cylinders, and I'm beginning to wonder if they are partly to blame too. Are there several different ones available? Could he have fitted the wrong ones? By the way, my Blazer is a 2.8 V6, with a manual transmission.
Cheers!
 

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murray said:
Hi!!
Thanks for replying so promptly. It's pretty late over here, about 11-30, and I have work tomorrow, so I may be gone for the night soon. I have all new hardware on the rear brakes, new self-adjusters, courtesy of my friendly contact in Vermont. New every thing, except the guy before me fitted a new front to rear line in a smaller tube size, and I feel this is part of the problem. It's real hard over here, there are a few specialist places that charge way over the odds, and your average U.K. mechanic doesn't want to touch it!! I'm pretty handy though,so I do most things myself. The previous owner also changed the rear wheel cylinders, and I'm beginning to wonder if they are partly to blame too. Are there several different ones available? Could he have fitted the wrong ones? By the way, my Blazer is a 2.8 V6, with a manual transmission.
Cheers!
That might be the problem the smaller lines. as for the cylnders there are a few diffrent ones that will fit in but not necessaraly the correct ones. Most gm break stuff is interchangable weather or not its the right size for the job is the question tho. But first I would repipe the back and see what happens from there.
 

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Thanks, I will!
That chat room is too hot for an old fart like me!!I'm going to reccomend your site to some other guys over there, it looks pretty neat so far! I just want to get this thing on the road!! I will try changing the lines, I have my friend sending me the stuff, c/w wheel cylinders and proportioning valve too.
 

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Murray! Good to see some overseas members. I hope to see you here, and some of your friends. Seems like a big break job. If its a late 80's it could be due for a brake overhaul. Mainly S-trucks only need pads here, and ever 3-4 pad changes, you'll need rotors. The calipers tend to be very good. Unless your calipers are "hanging up" (getting stuck, causing the wheel to pull hard one direction) there really arent that many scenerio's that require to purchase them. But, it wouldnt hurt at all to install them. For the price you payed, Id pay $1000US for that badboy, atleast! :D

How much do mechanics charge their to work on GM/American cars? If you want to do the brakes yourself and need furthur assistance and see pictures, I'd pick up a Chiltons Guide. It's an entire book with diagrams and directions on how to install everything from a new motor, to checking your oil. Books run $10-15 US. Do a search somewhere, or try Barnes&Noble.com (bookstore website). Later.

Keep sportin' the S-series pride!

John
 

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Hey, John,
Wassuuuuuuup!
Thanks for the welcome, you guys seem really friendly and helpful so far. I've passed on the site address to a couple of contacts Stateside. I don't know about you, but I feel kinda old here!! I've been in full-time employment since before some of you were born!!
John, if you check the top of this thread, I have already changed the calipers, and the master cylinder, and the previous owner changed the wheel cylinders. STILL no brakes! I definitely think the smaller pipe to the rear has a big role in this problem, and I'm beginning to doubt these wheel cylinders, I don't trust the previous owners' handiwork!!
I've contacted my guy in Vermont with a shoping list, but I guess he's busy just now under a foot of snow, or something! Anyway, I'm at his mercy for the parts. I've asked for a complete set of flare nuts, and the piping sizes, a set of flexible hoses, a proportioning valve, and a Chiltons!!! I guess I'll just need to wait for a reply from him!
To answer your question about prices, I don't know exactly, but Alexanders Auto's, I think www.alexandersautos.org has a website, they are in Glasgow, and admit they don't carry parts, but can order them p. To work on a domestic car, a back-street garage will charge about £25-30 per hour, and a dealer from £40-60 depending on if it is a Ford, or a BMW. A 12,000 service on a full sized Ford is about £200, a 24,000 about £300-350. I think it's about $1-65 to the £1-00 today.
Hey, do NOT start me on prices here!!! We pay £0-70 per litre here for regular un-leaded gas, almost $5-00 for a U.S. gallon!!
Thanks for your helpful words. Why not mail me?
 

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Hi Guy: I have a 87 S-10 Blazer, and it has over 300,000 miles on it so, I have done the brakes a few times. My brakes are not the best either, and this is what I, think is the problem. I have changed everything, but the booster, and I think, that it, is the problem. You might want to look at it. Anybody want to add their opinion to this. let us know what you find out. Later BTK
 

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Hey, BTK, thanks for your input. I guess mine is nothing but a pup then, with about 100k on it!! I'm pretty sure the booster is okay on this car. The pedal is much lighter with the engine running, and if you pump the brake pedal a couple of times, to use up the vacuum reserve, the idle speed comes up a tad until the vacuum is restored. Thanks though! Keep tryin' guys!!
 

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Hey everybody!!! We got legal at long last!!! I changed everything on there, including the proportioning valve, and put on the correct size of line to the rears, the previous owner had made a bad repair, and used a bracket to bleed the proportioning valve, as shown in the Chilton's manual, and, well, we're mobile at last!!!
Thanks for everyone's input at the beginning, I knew I had to get there on my own eventually, but at least somebody made a few suggestions!

No doubt there will be other questions, now we're on the road!!!
CHEERS!!!
 
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