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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can any one tell me how to remove the "mode lever" (it's the white thing to the left in the photo and #17 in the diagram) from the "heater case" and "mode valve"(#21 in the diagram)?

I don't know how it is fastened to the valve (flapper). Is it male spline to female spline? Square shaft to square hole? Snap ring? Roll pin? Tapping screw? Duct tape ....lol?

Before I took it apart this afternoon, I watched it in action and when the actuator "pushed" it towards the interior of the cab, it ended up at about a 25 degree angle from horizontal. (I wasn't getting any heat to my feet for the last couple of weeks. With the control set to either defrost or "feet" it would only blow through the defrost)

So I removed (putting it nicely) several panels, the blower relay(?) and the actuator to get to the lever. It does not "pull out"!! So I'm assuming that there is "something" holding it to the "valve/flapper/baffle".

Aaaaannnndddd if I do get it out, will I get a new one back in?

Thanks for looking
Rob

PS - It's a 2001 S10 4.3L c/w AC Extended cab
 

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It appears there is a small release tab/finger that is accessed from the end of the lever arm....prolly need a small screwdriver or pick. You must remove the spring (#15) & the vac motor first, tho. Once you get it off, looks like it should just push on & lock.
I have a heater box assy in my basement, so if you have any ???'s, just ask.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Started my truck and heading out shortly once it warms up (-10 right now outside).

So from what you are telling me I'm "assuming" that the pivot shaft on the baffle extends outside of the heater case and the lever "snaps" onto it.

If you are correct, then I need to hope that the inside of the arm is worn/stripped and not the shaft on the baffle.

Please stay online .... lol. I wear bifocals and working/focusing under my dash is somewhat time consuming.

Rob
 

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Reading your description of symptoms again, I think your issue is with door/valve/flapper #20. That is the door that directs air to either defroster or foot/panel vents. Keep in mind, default (failure mode) position of this door directs air to defroster, which is what you may be experiencing.

Door #21 diverts air to either the panel vents or floor or both. The "neutral" position (no vac applied) of that door will direct air to panel & floor; the 2-way vac motor adjusts that door either up (panel) or down (floor).

Either way, tho, the lever comes off the same way....a small locking tang accessible from the end of the shaft. Door shafts are a "double D" design. With box outside of vehicle, only took about 30 secs to dis-assemble....in-car will be a bitch, I'm sure. Will need to remove the vac motors, as well....again, they slide off after releasing a tang.
Good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got it !!

I've attached a pic of the broken flapper and a pic of the lever for future reference. Now others can see exactly where the lock tab is.

I'm assuming that about an inch of the "flapper shaft" broke off (brittle?). I don't know for sure because it fell into the heater housing when I got the lever to let go.....lol.

So, tomorrow I order a new flapper and next weekend I'll spend another 4 hours upside down under my brake pedal.

At least I now know that the lever can only slide onto the shaft one way !! Getting both ends of the "pivot shaft" into their proper place "BEFORE" I lock on the lever will be the fun part ... lol.

Thanks for your help CatDaddy!!

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
COOL !!!

I'm working on the last one (red and blue incoming wires) . Can you get a pic of the other end of the spring?

Hate to be a pest, but I REALLY only want to reassemble this puppy ONCE .... lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Excellent !!!

I would of NEVER guessed!

I'm just putting it on at my desk here and that puppy is tight!

Thanks for the help.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey CatDaddy ..............me again

I "HAVE TO" get some seperation between the upper and lower halves of the housing to get this thing in!! I can see the screw that shows in your photos but I can't see any on the other side of the housing (towards the rear of the truck) Is there one? or two? etc?

And do you think I'll be able to pry the two halves apart about a half inch at the driver's end of the housing?

Thanks again
Rob
 

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To split the housing, there are 8 screws that will need to be removed & I dare say, some will be very hard (impossible) to access with the case in the vehicle. First 2 pics have most of those screws circled in red.

But.......I suggest removing the foot/floor duct on the bottom of the case. There are only 2 screws & are much easier to get to (see 3rd pic). This will open a sizable access to area you need to reach.
 

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This sounds similar to a problem I'm having. I have heat, but it only goes to the defrost, or the vents. Anytime I switch the setting to get to the floor, it goes through the defrost(vent/floor, floor, and obviously def/floor). I found another post:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f137/heater-problem-456952/

but your description of how things work catdaddy sound more like the problem I have(actuators not working properly, or vac problem). I'll check the vacuum hose(not sure exactly where it's at) first. Not to sound like a noob, but any guess as to how long it'll take to pull the heater assembly out(it isn't what I'd call warm outside...high temps in the teens)?

BTW, I've got a '98 2WD 5-spd man, 2.2L 134CID single cab.
 

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Im having this same problem in my 97' Blazer^
 

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Bump this to the top as Im pretty sure this is my problem on my 03 s-10. Ordered part 20 and hope to do this project as soon as I can. Looks like it will be a booger of a job, but in these tough times a guy has to do as much of his own maintenance as he can. Thanks a ton for the pics!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Bump this to the top as Im pretty sure this is my problem on my 03 s-10. Ordered part 20 and hope to do this project as soon as I can. Looks like it will be a booger of a job, but in these tough times a guy has to do as much of his own maintenance as he can. Thanks a ton for the pics!
aberlin took his into the dealership and they told him over $1000 labor to change it!!:eek:
 

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Old thread but solved my problem.
2000 2wd 4cyl and had no windshield defrost. all heat wad coming from dash vents. found vacuum line going into fender was dry rotted and severed. got a new line and everything works as normal. hasn't worked in probly 2 years and fixed it with $1 in parts. unbelievable!!!!
 
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